IDS / WDS
#1
IDS / WDS
I have come across an old laptop which still works, and which is running Windows XP professional. I have also found a site which purports to offer a download of an old version of IDS/WDS for a few pounds. All that is apparently necessary to allow this to be used on the car is the appropriate lead to connect it.
The recommended lead seems to cost several hundred pounds, which has rather dented my enthusiasm for the idea, although there appear to be several of the inevitable chinese clones available at much more reasonable cost.
I wondered whether anyone had any experience or insight which they could offer. Many thanks.
The recommended lead seems to cost several hundred pounds, which has rather dented my enthusiasm for the idea, although there appear to be several of the inevitable chinese clones available at much more reasonable cost.
I wondered whether anyone had any experience or insight which they could offer. Many thanks.
#2
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#3
Thanks Bob. I have widened my research, and this is starting to look like a complete and/ or an expensive nightmare! I need to recalibrate my TPS and cannot locate anyone with the correct equipment. I had hoped I could find a way to replicate it cost effectively, but that is now looking rather optimistic.
#4
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Thanks Bob. I have widened my research, and this is starting to look like a complete and/ or an expensive nightmare! I need to recalibrate my TPS and cannot locate anyone with the correct equipment. I had hoped I could find a way to replicate it cost effectively, but that is now looking rather optimistic.
What is the year, model and engine of your Jaguar?
Why do you need to recalibrate your TPS?
Cheers,
Don
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#5
I think I've read somewhere here that this:
http://britishdiagnostics.co.uk/prod...-sdd-v130-kit/
actually worked for resetting TPS on an X300.
Could someone confirm?
http://britishdiagnostics.co.uk/prod...-sdd-v130-kit/
actually worked for resetting TPS on an X300.
Could someone confirm?
#6
Hi Don,
My car is a 1996 XJR auto, and I have been chasing a high idle issue for some time now. I decided to bite the bullet and clean the throttle body. I removed the various intake pipes and the inlet manifold for access ( what fun!) before removing the throttle body. Apart from removing the connector plug, I did not touch the throttle position sensor, and did not flood it with cleaning fluid. In point of fact, the throttle body was only very lightly contaminated. I removed the ISCV, and found a lot of gunk around the plunger and in the air bypass duct which I cleaned. I elected to replace the ISCV with the Renault equivalent, which is recommended elsewhere and which appears identical. On reassembly, the car now settles into a tickover at around 1800 rpm, some 500 rpm higher than before I began!
Cue much depression and despondency, leading to a questioning of whether I really need this car in my life. In truth,I dont need it, but I do love it and so will soldier on for now.
My first thought is that there is a major vacuum leak, and I will check this, although I did take particular care on reassembly. My next thought is that the Renault ISCV is not compatible after all, but I am having some difficulty summoning up the enthusiasm to remove the manifold again to replace it. I was thinking that I could attempt the TPS recalibration process, as some sources suggest this is necessary when the ISCV is replaced, and if it worked, I would have avoided removing the manifold again. I am happy to invest to be able to do this, as I am sure it will be helpful generally to have the correct diagnostic software, but the budget is finite.
My car is a 1996 XJR auto, and I have been chasing a high idle issue for some time now. I decided to bite the bullet and clean the throttle body. I removed the various intake pipes and the inlet manifold for access ( what fun!) before removing the throttle body. Apart from removing the connector plug, I did not touch the throttle position sensor, and did not flood it with cleaning fluid. In point of fact, the throttle body was only very lightly contaminated. I removed the ISCV, and found a lot of gunk around the plunger and in the air bypass duct which I cleaned. I elected to replace the ISCV with the Renault equivalent, which is recommended elsewhere and which appears identical. On reassembly, the car now settles into a tickover at around 1800 rpm, some 500 rpm higher than before I began!
Cue much depression and despondency, leading to a questioning of whether I really need this car in my life. In truth,I dont need it, but I do love it and so will soldier on for now.
My first thought is that there is a major vacuum leak, and I will check this, although I did take particular care on reassembly. My next thought is that the Renault ISCV is not compatible after all, but I am having some difficulty summoning up the enthusiasm to remove the manifold again to replace it. I was thinking that I could attempt the TPS recalibration process, as some sources suggest this is necessary when the ISCV is replaced, and if it worked, I would have avoided removing the manifold again. I am happy to invest to be able to do this, as I am sure it will be helpful generally to have the correct diagnostic software, but the budget is finite.
#7
1800rpm means your TPS voltage is out by ~0.04V and your IACV don't even operate as ECU thinks you have a throttle slightly open. Does your throttle open and close fully without sticking?
Have you got an OBD scanner? If you do, turn key into position two and check and let us know TPS voltage at throttle closed and fully open(with your foot fully down).
I cant remember exactly how an XJR looks from underneath but on a N/A car, you can get to TPS screws from underneath the car while its on a ramp. Simply loosen them up and turn the TPS to one side with the car running. It might look like there is no adjustment there at all but in fact there is approx a millimeter, enough to change the TPS voltage at idle by 0.06V or even 0.08V and that's enough to adjust base idle.
Generally in a perfect scenario, throttle body butterfly gap should be set at 0.002" with the TPS voltage as close as possible to 5V when throttle fully open and around 0.6V when closed. It can be tricky to get all three values set up correctly as adjusting one, can change other values but its much easier with the TB out and an OBD scanner.
OBD scanner might show % instead of V so just convert it to V by multiplying by 5.
Have you got an OBD scanner? If you do, turn key into position two and check and let us know TPS voltage at throttle closed and fully open(with your foot fully down).
I cant remember exactly how an XJR looks from underneath but on a N/A car, you can get to TPS screws from underneath the car while its on a ramp. Simply loosen them up and turn the TPS to one side with the car running. It might look like there is no adjustment there at all but in fact there is approx a millimeter, enough to change the TPS voltage at idle by 0.06V or even 0.08V and that's enough to adjust base idle.
Generally in a perfect scenario, throttle body butterfly gap should be set at 0.002" with the TPS voltage as close as possible to 5V when throttle fully open and around 0.6V when closed. It can be tricky to get all three values set up correctly as adjusting one, can change other values but its much easier with the TB out and an OBD scanner.
OBD scanner might show % instead of V so just convert it to V by multiplying by 5.
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Don B (06-07-2019)
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#8
The AJ16 does not have a slotted TPS. You can drill the TPS mount holes to approximate the slotted holes to give you a little 'wiggle-room' but the proper procedure is to tell the ECM where 'closed-throttle' is. (TPS calibration)
Has anyone actually tried to access the TPS on the SuperCharged AJ16 and then given advise?????
Hell, you can't even see or access most of the throttle assy.
The TPS is between the Engine Block and the throttle assy UNDER the charge air cooler!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The only way I have been able to access the TPS is with the THROTTLE REMOVED or at least displaced.
The simplest way to set the idle is with PDU/WDS/IDS. I am somewhat 'jaded' as I have worked at the dealer and I have 3WDS and 2 IDS machines but there is no simple answer to many problems due to sensor access.
Parts are not located for repair/adjustment access, they are located by engineers for FUNCTION.
bob
Has anyone actually tried to access the TPS on the SuperCharged AJ16 and then given advise?????
Hell, you can't even see or access most of the throttle assy.
The TPS is between the Engine Block and the throttle assy UNDER the charge air cooler!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The only way I have been able to access the TPS is with the THROTTLE REMOVED or at least displaced.
The simplest way to set the idle is with PDU/WDS/IDS. I am somewhat 'jaded' as I have worked at the dealer and I have 3WDS and 2 IDS machines but there is no simple answer to many problems due to sensor access.
Parts are not located for repair/adjustment access, they are located by engineers for FUNCTION.
bob
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#9
I've done this on three AJ16 engines now.
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Don B (06-08-2019)
#10
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Also, I have to run and haven't had a chance to search for it, but somewhere I've seen a procedure for recalibrating the ISCV that, if I recall correctly, did not require the Jaguar diagnostic tool. If the new ISCV is not closing completely that could certainly be part of your problem.
Cheers,
Don
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#11
#12
UPDATE / RESOLUTION!
Guys,
following your various helpful contributions, I decided to call my friendly main dealer and speak to the master technician who has been very helpful on previous occasions. Having described the problem, he was strongly of the view that the TPS was needing recalibrated, a "2 second" job on his diagnostic kit, so an appointment was made, and at the appointed time, I drove the car there, no mean feat, as with the engine idling at 1800, she was quite frisky!
Whilst I had realised that 2 seconds was a bit ambitious, after the car had been in the workshop for about an hour, the master technician emerged to tell me, somewhat sheepishly, that his equipment could not speak to the car, and he couldnt do anything without stripping the throttle body. He had checked for vacuum leaks, and found none, and the throttle return spring is fine. No charge, but no real progress, and another exciting drive home.
I decided to order the British Diagnostics software and cable, with a view to resetting the TPS myself. After about 10 days, it finally arrived and I set about installing it. Not terribly straightforward, but eventually succeeded, and connected to the car, only to be unable to establish any convincing form of communication. I have one last course of action open to me to see if I can get this to work, but if it doesnt, it is going back.
Despondency level now very high, and thoughts of getting rid of the car rear their head again.
After a break of a few days, I summoned up some enthusiasm, and set about removing the inlet manifold again. Those of you who have tackled this job will appreciate why a considerable amount of enthusiasm is required!
I decided to replace the Renault Idle speed control valve with the original Jaguar one ,and reassembled the inlet manifold. Eureka! The idle was much lower, and over the course of the next few starts, worked its way down to the textbook perfect level of 650rpm. Uncontained joy, and considerable relief.
Based on my experience with this problem, the key learnings seem to be:
-Idle problems can be caused by contamination in the narrow side channel, rather than the main throttle opening. Contrary to received wisdom, my throttle was as clean as a whistle after at least 60000 miles since it was last cleaned.
- Current Jaguar dealer diagnostic kit doesn't like to speak to these cars
- The Renault Idle speed control valve doesnt work, or at least doesnt work "out of the packet" There may be some modifications which need to be made to it, although I found no mention of any.
Nett nett, all I really needed to do was clean the idle air bypass channel....
Loving driving the car with the idle back to normal.
Thank you all again for your help.
Guys,
following your various helpful contributions, I decided to call my friendly main dealer and speak to the master technician who has been very helpful on previous occasions. Having described the problem, he was strongly of the view that the TPS was needing recalibrated, a "2 second" job on his diagnostic kit, so an appointment was made, and at the appointed time, I drove the car there, no mean feat, as with the engine idling at 1800, she was quite frisky!
Whilst I had realised that 2 seconds was a bit ambitious, after the car had been in the workshop for about an hour, the master technician emerged to tell me, somewhat sheepishly, that his equipment could not speak to the car, and he couldnt do anything without stripping the throttle body. He had checked for vacuum leaks, and found none, and the throttle return spring is fine. No charge, but no real progress, and another exciting drive home.
I decided to order the British Diagnostics software and cable, with a view to resetting the TPS myself. After about 10 days, it finally arrived and I set about installing it. Not terribly straightforward, but eventually succeeded, and connected to the car, only to be unable to establish any convincing form of communication. I have one last course of action open to me to see if I can get this to work, but if it doesnt, it is going back.
Despondency level now very high, and thoughts of getting rid of the car rear their head again.
After a break of a few days, I summoned up some enthusiasm, and set about removing the inlet manifold again. Those of you who have tackled this job will appreciate why a considerable amount of enthusiasm is required!
I decided to replace the Renault Idle speed control valve with the original Jaguar one ,and reassembled the inlet manifold. Eureka! The idle was much lower, and over the course of the next few starts, worked its way down to the textbook perfect level of 650rpm. Uncontained joy, and considerable relief.
Based on my experience with this problem, the key learnings seem to be:
-Idle problems can be caused by contamination in the narrow side channel, rather than the main throttle opening. Contrary to received wisdom, my throttle was as clean as a whistle after at least 60000 miles since it was last cleaned.
- Current Jaguar dealer diagnostic kit doesn't like to speak to these cars
- The Renault Idle speed control valve doesnt work, or at least doesnt work "out of the packet" There may be some modifications which need to be made to it, although I found no mention of any.
Nett nett, all I really needed to do was clean the idle air bypass channel....
Loving driving the car with the idle back to normal.
Thank you all again for your help.
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#13
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The Renault Idle speed control valve doesnt work, or at least doesnt work "out of the packet" There may be some modifications which need to be made to it, although I found no mention of any.
Nett nett, all I really needed to do was clean the idle air bypass channel....
Nett nett, all I really needed to do was clean the idle air bypass channel....
Congratulations on resolving your issue and thank you for reporting the details of your success!
Regarding the Renault ISCV, I am aware that there are at least two different shapes of the tip of the pintle or plunger. Does the tip of the pintle on your Renault ISCV match the shape of the tip on your original Jaguar ISCV? If the tips did not match exactly, could that be the source of excess air raising your idle speed?
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 07-24-2019 at 06:17 PM.
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#14
HI Don,
The tips matched precisely, but the part extending from the main body and attaching to the tip was a different length. I mistakenly assumed that this was the piston / plunger which moved the tip in and out of the orifice regulating airflow, and that it would calibrate itself to the right length once connected to the car. As it turns out, the moving part is INSIDE the part I was looking at, and the Renault unit I had was simply too short.I am wondering whether I have the wrong Renault unit, or whether it is necessary to swap the piston / plunger parts over to make the Renault unit work in the Jag.
The tips matched precisely, but the part extending from the main body and attaching to the tip was a different length. I mistakenly assumed that this was the piston / plunger which moved the tip in and out of the orifice regulating airflow, and that it would calibrate itself to the right length once connected to the car. As it turns out, the moving part is INSIDE the part I was looking at, and the Renault unit I had was simply too short.I am wondering whether I have the wrong Renault unit, or whether it is necessary to swap the piston / plunger parts over to make the Renault unit work in the Jag.
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Don B (07-25-2019)
#15
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The large images at Jag-Lovers are still not all transferred to the new servers but my thumbnails and descriptions are still visible:
AJ6 - AJ16 IACV - ISCV
Cheers,
Don
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#16
Our '93 XJ40/AJ6 used the same ISCV part number as the X300/AJ16 and the Renault Megane stepper motor I used was an exact fit that worked perfectly as soon as the computer figured out its travel limits. The Renault part numbers were D95174, D5174 or B335, and the actual part was made in Germany by Lowe Automobil, and their part number was 57174.
The large images at Jag-Lovers are still not all transferred to the new servers but my thumbnails and descriptions are still visible:
AJ6 - AJ16 IACV - ISCV
Cheers,
Don
The large images at Jag-Lovers are still not all transferred to the new servers but my thumbnails and descriptions are still visible:
AJ6 - AJ16 IACV - ISCV
Cheers,
Don
it was sold as D95174. Mine is a supercharged car. Could that be the difference?
#17
I think there was another user here that had trouble with Renault iacv on his supercharged car. Main issue with it was the socket orientation and how it was pulling on the plug/cable and it didn't work for him either so with sc cars it's probably best to go with genuine iacv unless you can find one with the right socket orientation.
I've been using that Renault iacv on all my x300, they also came with different caps and they all worked fine. Mind you it's easy to swap the plunger with the cap from original iacv to the Renault one if needed too.
I've been using that Renault iacv on all my x300, they also came with different caps and they all worked fine. Mind you it's easy to swap the plunger with the cap from original iacv to the Renault one if needed too.
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Don B (07-26-2019)
#18
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I think there was another user here that had trouble with Renault iacv on his supercharged car. Main issue with it was the socket orientation and how it was pulling on the plug/cable and it didn't work for him either so with sc cars it's probably best to go with genuine iacv unless you can find one with the right socket orientation.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ed-one-197342/
Cheers,
Don
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