My 95 vdp won't start after I hit the fab button on my key chain. It shows a indication light on when I try to start it. Looks like anti-theft light and a transmission light with an X over it. It cranks but nothing. Im so lost I don't know what to do. Someone told me when that light is on.that it willnt start because it is telling the fuelpump to not send fuel to my engine! Any help please

 

Hi Mridontknow,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums. It's great to have you with us.

I have moved your post to start your own thread so your specific issue can be addressed. Hopefully you'll hear from knowledgeable members soon.

In the meantime, please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.

Cheers,

Don

 

Put your finger on the # 1 fuel pump relay and feel for it to click on for 4 seconds then click off with the key in on position before start

The relay will click a 3rd time on again after the ECU sees engine rotation

If the relay clicks you should be able to hear the pump in the trunk

This is the foundation of your fuel pump to test from before getting into inhibits

Besides the power to the pump fuse there is a fuse in the right heelboard that controls the relay , fuse # 10 / red / 5 amp

To get power to this fuse the king relay in the corner of it's fuse box must close by the key to on position , can be swapped with the LH engine fuse box king relay which is in reality only the horn relay




There is a crash switch that can be pushed to reset on the right footwell

You can swap the FP relay withe the ACC relay inboard from the FP one

 

These cars are sensitive to low voltage, so the first thing I would do is check the battery. Test the voltage with the car off, a fully charged battery is 12.6V. If the battery is old ( say over 5 years) it may not be able to provide enough power to start the car.

What market was your car built for? European market cars have an immobilizer, North American cars do not.

 

Just to add to Lady P's and Jagboi64's excellent suggestions, Jaguars are very sensitive to battery voltage and cranking amperage. Even if the battery is strong enough to crank the engine, if the voltage falls much below 11 volts while cranking, the Engine Control Module (ECM) will not trigger the ignition to fire. Recently I have tested batteries in client vehicles with static voltages over 12.5 volts, which would generally be considered acceptable, but my Midtronics EXP-800 analyzer found that the batteries were only capable of delivering less than 50 Cold Cranking Amps, even though they were both rated to deliver more than 650 or 750 CCA. Since you can't start the vehicle, it would be worth removing the battery and taking it to a local auto parts store or automotive electrical shop with a good quality battery and charging system analyzer. It may be as simple as a battery that is past its useful life.

Cheers,

Don

 

Just got off work checked all fuses/ relays up under my back seat up under my hood in my trunk every where. They all seem to be good. I took my battery out of my truck that I drive switched it over and still nothing. Just keep acting like it wants to start but still nothing!

 

No noise in the relay.. Oh but there was a red wire hanging loss in my trunk I touched it to my positive battery cable and something clicked on. So I tried to start it. And yet nothing

 

A red wire hanging loose in your trunk sounds like a clue. Did the wire have a plastic electrical connector or was the end of the wire stripped bare of insulation?

Don

 

 

Red / Yellow wire is between the relay and fuel pump as the power to the pump

Touching this wire color to B + should run the fuel pump

A solid Red color would take more research

Bob mentioned some time back of a isolation relay to the Body Possessor Modual removed after shipping but the official color is White ref wiring guide

Go ahead and swap the RH heel board fuse box king relay with the LH engine fuse box relay ( horn )

and the FP ith the Acc relay

With the key in the on position you should feel them clicking during swapping , Hit the horn before swapping to verify the relay is good

Id you eant to

To make the FP relay close it is looking for a ground at Black 19 at the ECU provided by the ECU , The designed in inhibits are told to the ECU

 

ECU power : since the ECU is the key to FP enable there is some simple relay saps to ensure it is powered up to give that command ground .

First power - fuse X and swap the LH engine fuse box king relay with the RH engine fuse king

Second power _ once the ECU is partially powered up it enables the ECU controlled relay to close witch bring in more power to the ECU sections including some engine sensors and tuel injectors

This is a large relay on the left side that can be swapped with a headlight relay . They can be stuck in their bases and penetrating oil spray can help once you flip them upside down

Editing

 

ECU power : since the ECU is the key to FP enable there is some simple relay saps to ensure it is powered up to give that command ground .

First power - fuse # 12 / 10 amp RH engine fuse box and swap the LH engine fuse box king relay with the RH engine fuse king relay

Second power _ once the ECU is partially powered up it enables the " ECU controlled relay " to close which brings in more power to the ECU sections including some engine sensors and main power source for the fuel injectors

This is a large relay on the right side that can be swapped with a headlight , fog , or AC clutch relay . They can be stuck in their bases and penetrating oil spray can help once you flip them upside down




Editing

 

I know I am late to the party but I would check your crank position sensor. The transmission light leads me to believe that it's not a fuel delivery or a charge problem. My fuel pump left me stranded once and there was no trans light, I've tried to start it many times with a dead battery and I get a series of rapid clicks but no trans light, and I've hit 2 Ohio potholes so large the inertia sensor was triggered and no trans light, so in my limited experience that leads me to the crank position sensor or maybe the body processor unit. When my crank position sensor went out it was a kind of gradual process, it would stall on me or go into limp home mode once every few days for two weeks or so before finally going for good. When the body processor unit went, it was an instant kind of deal. I'm not sure if this is the same for everyone but these are my experiences, hope they help!

 

When my crankshaft position sensor gave out, it was also gradual with misfires to begin with that became more frequent until the engine was running on few cylinders and would not allow any forward movement. Towed it home and changed the sensor - all well again. I then noticed that the insulation on the cable had worn away! I suspect that was the problem.