Hey I just bought 97 xj6l. I’m having trouble searching the forum.
1. The driver seat is stuck close to the steering wheel is there a way to manually make it slide back?
2. The subwoofer behind the back seat is blown. What size sub is it so I can replace it?
3. The trunk wont open with anything but the key and the light is on the dash saying it’s always open but it’s not. How can I make the exterior button work and dash button work?
4. Doors won’t lock at all it it’s like a spring that immediately bounces unlocked. How to I lock the doors?

 

The subwoofer is a shallow design so hard to find otherwise it would hit the vertical fuel tank across the rear seat

You can replace the surround foam on the original , this is different then the mounting foam

The same speaker rot accrues on the door speakers

See the following film :

https://www.speakerworks.com/speaker...video-s/62.htm

There is a thing called a hard reset on the Jaguar where you remove both battery cables and bring them together with the battery post isolated with a towel , cardboard box , or the neighbors dead cat

You can keep the cables in contact with a jumper cable once the battery post are isolated , the longer the better like 1 hour

This sets the security lock control unit to zero state

Never place a jaguar battery in backward , A shop will put it in backards for you so you must watch . The positive post goes in the positive direction of travel

 

With regard to the trunk and doors, I would suggest checking that the cables going from the right trunk hinge to the trunk lid are in good shape.
It is common for them to get snagged and become severed. This could manifest with trunk lights not working, inability to open with the remote or the dash button as well as locking issues.
If the car see's an open circuit because the trunk wires are cut, then it will act as if a door is still open and not lock, you should hear a louder beep than normal from the alarm when you try to lock the car.
I had this problem with mine and was able to reconnect the wires with twist on wire connectors, until I had time to properly solder, heat shrink and safely secure them to the hinge.

 

G'day Donald,

The problem with the trunk is more than likely the microswitch in the trunk lock/latch. If it is broken you will get exactly the symptoms you have, the car won't electronically lock because it thinks the trunk is still open. This is it.




Cheers,
Jeff.

 

I just ordered one on eBay I’ll try it out thanks for the help.

 

where do I buy the surround foam can you provide a link? Thanks for the information

 

saw a black cat wandering around late last night, now I know why!

 

Item 1: Check 2 seat motor fuses in the right side fuse box under the rear seat. Fuses F3 and F4. Should be 20A fuses. Aside from blown fuses you would probably have to remove the seat to have a look at the switch pack, gears and motor cables under the seat.

Item 2: I don't think that the original subwoofer speaker is available anywhere, so repair it or customize a similar one to fit.

Items 3 and 4 with some reiteration on the above points (copied from my recent post):

Here are probably the three most common failures in the alarm/locking/fob system:

The door lock peg will spring back up if the mechanism that locks the door is too tight (dirty) and/or stuck. The spring you press against is supposed to flip the mechanism to the locked position, but the mechanism won't move far enough to do so. The only real way to correct this is to remove the door latch and clean and lube the lock mechanism pivot points. It is necessary because one stuck lock causes confusion for the locking system and it will tend to leave all the doors unlocked. Most of the time the internal parts are not broken, but only stuck.

To program your fob, the trunk operation must be correct. Strange, but true. Step one is to open the trunk. If the trunk latch switch isn't working correctly the fob can't be programmed. Do the trunk lights come on when you open the trunk? That would be good, but you also need to have them shut off when you close the trunk. You will know because when closed the dash release button will work, and you will NOT have a trunk open indicator on the dash (with key on). You can hack this problem by manually connecting the wires of the trunk latch switch together (simulating a trunk open situation for fob programming).

And most importantly, the right side trunk hinge wires often get chafed or broken, causing all sorts of problems back there. So make sure those wires look ok. Remove a zip tie if need be and free them up to move along with the hinge. Repairs are often needed to those wires.

 

The subwoofer is a 6 X 9 oval that I don't have on my non - premium factory system so i can't say what the repair kit # is

Both the premium and non - premium systems use the same Jaguar labeled Alpine AJ9500 control head

The door speakers are different in that mine are Philips and the premium uses a Alpine from my understanding

You will sometimes see the premium total stereo system referred to as the Alpine system and yours not being a VDP model may be a hybrid of the 2 premium and non - premium versions

To be sure you would have to remove one of the same 4 door speakers and see the manufacture

You may or may not have a CD player in the trunk

In ordering a repair kit they will need to know if the glued edges are angled or flat as pictured on the following page :

https://www.speakerworks.com/foam-su...izing-s/63.htm

In the middle of this page you will see a example of a 6 X 9 kit # SWK69A

This is not saying this is the correct one

https://www.speakerworks.com/speaker...-kits-s/65.htm

Nobeel Masri has a point on a common wire chaffing problem underneath the curved plastic shield on the right trunk hinge arm and is an easy check

 

my speakers say Harmon kardon

 

Woot woot!!! Replacing the white switch solved 3 and 4 I am excited about this victory.