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Swap the starter relay with the AC or fog relay as the starter relay may be pitting or cat whiskering not allowing enough current to flow in it's power contacts . While you're in the starter area clean the large ground strap bonding surfaces . Cheap try .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; May 6, 2018 at 01:41 PM.
Don’t forget to check all the connections on the battery cable. You can lose a couple of volts between the battery and the starter motor if the connections aren’t good.
Although I do own and maintain an XJS, which is not the forum this car is meant to support, my car has the AJ16 engine, which seems to line up with the interests in this forum quite often.
I believe my transmission mount is different than yours, which, in any case, I have replaced in recent years. I have also replaced the rear subframe mount as well as the front engine mounts.
I'm a lower control arm bushing and steering rack bushing away from completing everything on the to do list when I first bought this car!
Although I do own and maintain an XJS, which is not the forum this car is meant to support, my car has the AJ16 engine, which seems to line up with the interests in this forum quite often.
Hi Vee,
I figured that was the reason you were posting in the X300 forum, but I wanted to be sure since I was going to point you to the Electrical Guide that shows where the battery power and ground connections are located, and obviously the X300 and XJS are different in this regard. Here you go:
Thank you Don... I'm aware of the electrical system for the XJS. I've had a few gremlins to chase down. Ultimately, I am working on rewiring the fuel injection/ECU harness. I no longer trust the wiring.
I have most of it mapped out, lengths and connectors and will soon order the necessary supplies to build a new one!
Might be better off to order the stubby EV1 connectors by sight in the auto parts store to get the correct ones .
The connectors on the trunk dome lights can be used as an example on the X300 series with a difference in the backshell mounting in the long plastic channel for all 6 . I don't know if that's the case in the trunk of the XJS
Last edited by Lady Penelope; May 9, 2018 at 08:49 AM.
I pulled an old harness off of a wrecked 95 so between having the actual parts in a basement where I can scrutinize and cross reference part numbers, and having access to the wiring diagrams, this appears to be going better than anticipated.
When it's all said and done, I will share everything with this forum.
The sockets on the ECU uses a 2 pronged release tool # TOL - 019 last I researched and " Q " in Hong Kong replaced the whole ECU connectors so he may know more specifically . Otherwire here is a connector socket map for the car side connector .
Yes, I have a feeling I will be speaking with you at great lengths about my plans... I have sourced several websites with the pieces and parts I'll need. Here's the US source for man parts:
I'll be rebuilding using 16awg GXL wire. I plan on all new connectors.
My biggest challenge is the shielded wire lengths. I have found two places that sell single conductor heat rated shielded wire. I believe they are RC airplane supply websites. I hope they are good to use in an engine bay...
I have a large electronics supply store of many wonderful things in town and a 10 person technical staff that has all the stuff including the heat ranges and chemical resistances in stock and on the shelf . I can specify to the technical staff ( and the staff persons name ) what you need and you can order from them direct . Hopefully they have the " bottle rockets " for the buildup of the shield grounds .
PM me what you are planning to replace . I worked flight line electronics for the airlines . My business card at the bottom read " Service While You Wait "
I use to have a colored large colored in for the wires a schematic of the whole engine as I rang out the whole thing by taking a flashdrive to the office store to print a extra large copy and laminated . If I can find it again
Good to know. Once I complete my wire survey, I plan on compiling a list of connectors, colors and other parts (which I think I have everything but the first two), I will try them out.
Thank you, but I have all of those figured out. No need to do that.
I should be ready to place my order this summer. The toughest part to source is that rubber boot that transitions the harness from outside (under the hood) to inside the car. I have one on the spare harness I've collected, taking it off will require drastic measures, or time consuming removal of wires from connectors.