On the left side of my engine under the intake manifold I have an oil leak. I suspect it is the oil pressure sender. I can't see it without putting the car on a hoist. Could someone tell me what type of sender it is so I can be prepared to fix it when it is on the hoist without having to put it up a second time?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Is it 3.2 or 4.0

idk if it matters but it might

 

The oil filter housing is adjacent; I've read somewhere on here that there are a couple of O-rings on it that are notorious leakers, so you may want to change them as long as you are under there. Your oil pressure sender takes a 19mm wrench, unless you have the "fix-kit." I forget what the replacement switch is. My sender went Tango-Uniform and I installed the fix-kit - an 8 psi switch and an in-line resistor.


You'll need to bend a wrench to remove it. You need about the same angle on the open-end that you find on the box-end:


My first attempt came out pretty decent:





The keen eye will spot this as an 18mm. Despite having the proper angle to access the flats, it was only good enough to reveal I'd mis-guessed the size! Off to Lowes for another spare wrench (Didn't wanna sacrifice one out of my "good set" to the torch and hammer) and I begat this:





so I grabbed the adjustable and improvised - which explains why I can't remember what size you need if you have the fix-switch - I didn't have to bend/break another wrench for it!

 

It depends if you have the original sender (LMD5640CA) or the switch (LNA5642CA) that Jaguar changed to later on. As Aholbro1 states there is a kit for the switch that includes an inline resistor. Jaguar made the change because customers were complaining about low oil pressure readings when things were in fact normal, so they changed to a switch.

I don't believe the 3.2L was ever sold in the US

Yes, this is the oil cooler bypass fitting. It is the semi-circular casting on the bottom of the oil filter housing and has 4 o-rings inside that are notorious for causing leaks. It's not a matter of if, just when so you may as well replace them.




I didn't get this creative but found a crow's foot wrench on a ratchet worked fine

 

Mine went to 0 after startup within the first week of ownership. Red warning light accompanying. Never been kicked in the gut - but recall falling on a football as a kid and getting the wind knocked out of me - yeah, it felt just like that. Called Motorcarman immediately to inquire what was most likely loss of oil P in the X300 as I contemplated whether to have it towed home or to him:
"You haven't lost oil pressure....the level's good?.....Ok the senders are notorious for reporting 0 or barely over that...you know what no oil pressure sounds like...fire it back up and if you hear knocking quick shut it off! But if it has oil in it, I'm 99% sure you have pressure - drive it home and get the fix kit."

 

I'm pretty sure mine are leaking.

Looks like that casting is attached to the oil filter adapter with a single nut. Is that correct? Remove the nut, wriggle the part off, replace o-rings, reinstall?

Cheers
DD

 

Yep. Right on the money. Easy peasy

 

Link for replacement o rings I want.to do.these

96 vdp 4.0

 

Part number for the o-rings is CAC5118 if you Google it, you'll have your choice of vendors.

 

Oil Seal - Auto Parts Warehouse

Don't think these are referenced by the part number, but correct part and cheap!

VDP408 and I needed some of these recently.

 

FWIW a few days ago I replaced the o-rings mentioned/illustrated in Allan's post, #4 above.

I'm not usually too fussy about oil leaks......and if there's heavy labor involved my tolerance level increases proportionally

However, replacing these o-rings is indeed very simple (like, 10 minutes simple) and it made a huge difference. There's still a slight drip...not sure why... but nothing like before. The labor vs. satifaction ratio was very favorable.

I also replaced a leaky p/steering hose. The supply hose from the reservoir to the pump. Oddly, after removal, inspection there was no visible fault with the old hose. Maybe it was just 'ooozing'? I dunno. Or maybe the old clamps had gone a bit weak? I used new ones with the new hose.

Anyhow, for less than $40 and an hour of labor from beginning to end, including some cleaning of the underbody, the end result was a smashing success! Two significant leaks, one fully repaired and the other 90% repaired.

Cheers
DD