Was Replacing the 3rd Brake light bulbs and while car was on (not thinking) I plugged it in and shorted the brake lights and reverse lights. Where is the relay I need to replace? 414 in the boot fuse box?

 

You probably have gotten a fuse. Otherwise, I believe you are inside the SCLM!

 

Whats the SCLM? I believe i got all the fuses replaced. The two 414 relays in the trunk are they the ones to replace?

 

Hi northwestjagxj6,

I think Ross means the Security and Locking Control Module, which has some control of the rear lights (maybe when the alarm is triggered?). Other suspects could be the RLCM (Rear Lighting Control Module) or LCM (Lamp Control Module). I have two '95 X300 Electrical Guides that use the different terms.

In my experience, relays are rarely damaged by a short because a fuse blows before the relay can overheat. And in your case, there are three different relays involved, one for the high-mount stop lamp, one for the reverse lamps (inside the RLCM), plus the Ignition Positive Relay (IPR).

It seems highly unlikely that you would have fried two different relays before one or more fuses opened the circuit(s), and if the IPR failed, you would have a lot more issues. It's far more likely that you have a blown fuse, perhaps Fuse 14 (10A) in the right hand heelboard fuse box, which provides ignition-switched power to many circuits, including the high mount stop lamps and RLCM. That fusebox is in the heelboard at the base of the right rear seat. Hopefully you'll find that fuse is blown and just needs to be replaced.

If you don't have the 1995 X300 Electrical Guide, you can download the version that uses the RCLM terminology here:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1995.pdf


Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don for the abbreviation with explanation, that's a great way to share

 

Thank You Don B! Made my day.

One last question, I put led wedge bulbs in my 3rd brake light and it blows the fuse you mentioned to replace. What can I do to keep the led or get different ones?

 

I'm not an expert on LEDs, but I know they are polarized so they have to be installed in the socket the right way in order to work at all, but it sounds as though your bulbs are either drawing too much current or one of the bulbs is shorted internally. If you have a meter with the capability to test diodes, you can test each bulb to be sure it's good. You can probably also test each bulb with a 9V battery to be sure they all operate properly. If the bulbs seem okay, then you might have to add a resistor to the circuit to limit the current drawn by the LEDs.

Perhaps one of our other members who is more knowledgeable about LEDs will be able to "illuminate" us.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for all the info and guide. I know with the led wedge bulbs you have to sometime flip them. I am going to try that. Just difficult to do so cause of the way the brake light is designed compared to all the other lights where you can flip them while power is to them.


All else fails, just going to put oem bulbs back in.

 

Thanks Don.
Indeed, I had a brain fart and used the X-308 designation for the module. As you correctly pointed out, it is highly unlikely that a short would get a relay, but with the myriad number of fuses, it is easy to overlook one.

As to the LEDs, normally reverse polarity will keep the bulb from burning, not short it, since an LED is a diode run in the forward direction. More likely, if the socket connector is not shorting the circuit, then the LED bulb is designed to have an external ballast to limit the current since the LED itself is not a 12 volt device. I am not familiar with the common available aftermarket bulbs, but look for a reference to a resistor or ballast!