OK, try the straight forward resolder first. Just scrape the coating off the pins and heat them to melt the solder. It would not hurt to add a little more solder, but may not be necessary. I used a 20Watt iron to get enough heat. In my case that was not enough, maybe a contamination problem, but others have not reported a problem as long as they used enough heat.
Paste flux contains tin or zinc chloride and is used when soldering copper pipe. It's acidic and not recommended for circuit boards. The q-tips were used to clean any acid off the pins. It's best if you not use it.

 

Just a thought, if you can expose then locate the wires/ connections to be soldered, just find someone to do the soldering.
It ain't easy with no experience.
An electronic repair shop (computers) or even a jewelry repair shop.

 

Hi lolagirl,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

Just so you know, you have responded to a thread that has had no activity since 2014. The dates appear in the black bar above each post.

Please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for all the info. Hopefully can fix mine

 

There are easier things to check first and cover the bases before the module unless you have proof with the CEL code X

 

I have checked all sensors and cleaned. Lights still on either side of trac light,

 

The sensors will read 1300 ohms with the 4 / pairs of wire colors , on wheel spin in the correct car fwd direction about 1 volt AC

The fault either the light or code will not go away until 12.5 MPH and reappear if still bad until 3 fault events

 

I pulled a 1996 x300 module from picknpull for my 1996 x305 V12 ages ago. didn't know if it had the dry solder issue so I opened it up with a hole saw on my drill press and resoldered it.

When I pulled the one on my xj12 I found it had different screw locations and more solenoid coils.

x300 module


x305 module
There is a solenoid coil missing but this appears to be intentional as there is no pin for that location on the main unit? I cut this one open and found there's a pretty big white wire running along right by the two joints I need to solder.



I'm trying to figure out how to shield the wire before I get the soldering iron in there. anyone got any ideas?
Meanwhile I now have a spare module if anyone needs it....

 

Sure looks like a bead of glue from here.

 

Hi Oliver,

On every Ate/Teves ABS module I have repaired, I have found starved, cold and cracked solder joints on connections in addition to the large pump connector pins, especially on the smaller pins for the main connector which carry the wheel speed sensor signals. So I recommend sawing off the entire cover. It's very easy with any thin-bladed saw. My favorite is a Japanese Dozuki, which cuts on the pull stroke, but a hacksaw blade, PVC pipe saw, etc. will work.

With the entire cover off, you will have better access to the pump pins and can also re-flow and supplement all the other solder joints. This service is generally good for the life of the vehicle.

Cheers,

Don

 

Aluminum foil should dissipate the heat to not be a hot spot on the wire but the trade is heat not being delivered to the area of interest

The other approach is paper insulation next to wire

Considered liquid solder ?

 

I've got some liquid solder but I've had trouble getting it to flow into the right places, but I will try that again yes thx for suggestion. I'll also take Don's advice and cut the whole 'lid' off so I can check integrity of other parts of the board.