So the engine mounts were toast on my '02 XJR. So bad that the AC pulley ate through the transmission cooler flexible hose section, and the main pulley was eating into the back of the coolng fan motor.

I get both mounts out and go to replace the LHS mount, but it wouldn't fit. Looked closer, and the replacement mount is about 3/8" longer then the somewhat intact RHS mount. LHS was in 2 pieces and the lower mounting bolt was missing and the broken mount bouncing around on the subframe somehow.....

I had ordered mounts from Amazon:


I see another part also:


But, it doesn't say they are LHS and RHS or anything. So, are the different side mounts different lengths and part numbers?

Thanks,

Mike

I recently replaced my mount on my xk8 and it was Part #: MNC7500AB-OE and it is listed for your car as well.

Link http://jaguar-parts.jagbits.com/sear...page=1&filters[catcode]=XJ8_EngineMech_15&sort=code%20asc

I measured the actual height difference and it's closer to 3/16", or a hair less.

Another thing odd about the "new" mounts is that the threaded hole in them is a 10-1.25 thread vs. a 10-1.50 that that was on the originals, so I had to source new fasteners.

I'm wondering if the old mount hasn't just compressed? Anyone have a new mount they could measure the height of for me? Car if up on jacks with no mounts, so I'd really like to try to finish the job today if possible.

Thanks.

Mike

As for the 3/16th I would not be concerned, however, the difference in the thread pattern is a concern but if you caught it prior to changing you should be ok. I did not have this problem when I did mine everything bolted up with the existing materials. If you are planning to change the one on the right it should straight forward, however, the drivers side (left) you will need to drop the steering rack and / or drop the sub frame.

two new parts of the same number ought to be identical to each other .. not impressed by this example of URO "quality"

Yeah, I've already got both mounts pulled out. Was trying to put the LHS mount back in first since it's the biggest PITA and it doesn't want to fit, even with the engine/trans all the way up.

I think I'm going to have to have my neighbor pull (roll?) the engine over towards the RHS so I can get enough clearance to get the LHS mount in. But, wanted to avoid going that far if it's the wrong mount and makes the engine sit too high and I have to end up taking it out again.

Plums: Guess that's the price you pay sometimes when trying to buy a less expensive part eh? Pay me now or pay me later....

Thanks,

Mike

Well got the job done and everything buttoned up. Not a lot of fun, but the person who compared it to replacing the fuel pumps is on crack, lol. This was like a stroll along a burbling brook with a gentle breeze and the frogs singing compared to replacing the fuel pumps.

Mike

When I did mine I broke a bolt on the rack and had to drill it out and re-tap it. As for the reinstall I found that I push the new mount between the oil pan and rack from the right to the left and it went right into place. I should also mention I used an engine lift from the top. I will be posting my procedure soon for others.

In case it helps someone, here is what I did. I put the car on jackstands on the two side front jack points. Used my floor jack to support the engine/trans at the bottom of the bellhousing and lifted the drivetrain up a far as it would go. I wedged a piece of 2x4 btwn the top of the crossmember and the bottom of the engine in case the engine/trans slipped off the jack it would be less likely to crush my hand(s). I also put another small jackstand under the trans pan for extra insurance. I figure a punctured trans pan is minor compared to a crush injury.

I used a 3/8" 15mm crowsfoot and a short 3/8" extension going to a 1/2" extension and half inch ratchet to break free the top mount nut on the LHS. RHS top nut I used a 15mm swivel socket (not socket and extension) and 3/8" and 1/2" extension/ratchet combo. It's really tight getting a line on the LHS nut, and it was on really well.

I removed the 10mm bolt on the top portion of the u-joint and then drove a large flathead screwdriver into the opening of top portion of the steering u-joint to help free it from the steering shaft. Then I used another, smaller flathead screwdriver with a long handle and deadblow hammer to drive the shaft up and out of the u-joint. Oh, liberal soaking of everything with PB Blaster beforehand. The 4 rack to crossmember bolts (13mm) came out without issue for me.

I had my neighbor help pry the engine with a prybar and piece of wood btwn the LHS exhaust manifold and frame rail while I got the LHS mount in place. I also had him move the steering wheel back and forth very slightly while I pushed up on the rack/u-joint to get the splines to mate. Mount bolts (with new bolts of different thread pitch) went in fine while my neighbor moved the engine slightly with the prybar, with some of the weight still on the floor jack. I used the 15mm swivel socket to tighten the top nut on the RHS and used a stubby flex wrench to tighten the LHS nut from below.

Oh, I used anti-seize on every fastener I reinstalled, and liberally on the steering shaft splines in case I need to pull the rack again. Anti-seize: don't fix something without it. (at least something you may ever have to work on again....)

Still have to replace the trans mount and drain trans fluid and replace filter.

You wouldn't happen to know how much fluid I need for a pan removal, would you? I'm not going to drain the torque converter. I already replaced the fluid at ~95K miles but don't remember how much it took. I have 135K now.

Mike

Beady, nice writeup but get your nuts and bolts in order, nuts on the top and bolts (torx) below through the subframe. I use a bent spanner for the top nuts, 12" 3/8th extension for the lower bolts.

I was saying I tightened the top nut on the LHS from below, i.e. I reached up from below using a stubby flex wrench, as opposed to coming at it from the top.

I did mis-speak in one location about a top "bolt", I'll edit that.

That LHS top nut was the most PITA part of the job, and quite touchy as to approach angle and to clearances if using a larger extension (1/2"). A long 3/8" extension seemed too flexible to get the torque I needed, and I was just twisting the extension rather than getting enough torque to the fastener. Even with the 15mm 3/8" crow's foot and short 3/8" extension to get past the manifold, the grip on the nut was iffy and I was afraid I stripped it when the crow's foot jumped off at one point. I have a set of flex-crow's feet, but they are in SAE unfortunately. In metric, that would probably have been the ideal tool for the job.

Thanks,

Mike

Snap-on sells a 15mm ratcheting crowsfoot adapter for about $20. Reaches easily with a universal and extension.

Brutal uses a 3/8 ratchet adapter also from Snap-on for about $80.

I'm at war against the rhs motor mount how do I get it out? I've tried using vise grip to turn it but it doesn't break loose

This is how I did my engine mount

Link.http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXK8EngineMount.htm

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

Hello Gus,
I think you may be able to help with a question I have in regards to removing/loosing the steering rack as you noted in your post with the engine mount replacement. I need to loosen the steering rack on my XJ8 which is almost similar to what you did in the post. You did mention to be careful when doing this. My question is how much will the rack drop when you remove the 4 bolts as I need get my ac compressor out past the rack. Does the rack drop significantly or can you comment on whether you think it would have to be removed completely from your experience?

The A/C compressor is in the front of the car you are unable to drop the compressor from the front?

I was able to maneuver the AC compressor out of my XJR just a couple months ago without touching the rack. Not sure how much different the XJ is? It is a tight fit, and you have to get the compressor in just the right orientation, but I got the old one out and new one in OK.

Mike

I know it is a tight fit I had one hell of a time removing mine but once you get it out going in will be easy. I think on mine the bracket for the power to it was the issue.

IIRC it took about 4 quarts to change mine without dropping the pan or draining the torque converter.

I did mine 3 times with a 12 quart case over the course of a week to make sure I changed as much as possible.

I made a dipstick out of a choke cable housing and just replaced exactly what I took out.

Shell 134 ATF is the preferred fluid for our XJR trannys, I got mine at Ryder Fleet Products for about $5 per quart.
Vector