Hi All.
i just picked up an XJR and an ready to study working my way through its issues.

First is ABS + TRAC. The shop I had to give it a post-purchase instruction said it's the pump rather than one of the wheel sensors, but they day it could be wiring somewhere. I have a feeling it may be the module connection issue. I'm willing to look into that as a first step.

I have read that that at some point they're were people that you could send your module to that would do the repair relatively inexpensively. Can anyone point me to one?

 

SO - I think I found the eBay seller that does this repair but it's a little more expensive than it used to be. This forum mentions a cost under $100 but current eBay cost is $200.

That's a little more than in ready to spend without a little more info so I think my NEW first step is to equip myself to reach the same conclusion did the shop, did that the issue is "in the pump". So I'll be looking for the cheapest easy to read the chassis codes.

Anyone have any guidance there?
ALSO - Any votes for just rolling the dice on the ABS module repair? The car has 177k miles!

 

Have you tried doing a search of this forum and the XK8 forum?

Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum - Search Results

 

I have NOT tried the XK8 forum! Hadn't thought about that.
I'm decently comfortable with my current plan of reading the abs codes (I ordered a transfer today since Torque Pro won't read the chassis codes). And going from there.

If it comes to that, I'm not really prepared to crack open the abs module myself. MAYBE- but probably not! After I narrow it down to that being the problem, I'll most probably pay to have it fixed competently, unless I find a nice YouTube video that walks me through it.

An "End all, be all" post on this would make for a GREAT sticky... I'll look on the XK8 forum for one of THOSE!

 

The part number for the ABS module for your car is JLM21323. (the number printed on the case is NOT the Jaguar part number)
The part number on the case will probably be LNF2210AB(6 pipe, 9 valve blue solenoid coils)

The 4.0 liter X100 from VIN A00083> and the 4.0 X308 from VIN F00035> are the same.(the 4.2 liter cars are DIFFERENT)

As long as the XK or XJ is a 4.0 liter and 2000MY or later, the modules will work.

A used or repaired module is recommended.

 

Your response is well timed!

I JUST came inside from checking the ABS codes. No codes read and no faults found + the car is firing the error = the module isn't getting power so it needs a little love, right?? Yay!

So I guess I pull the module and send it to California for $200. PROGRESS!

EDIT: Was just digging through the XK8 Forum (Thanks RJ237), and found Module Repair Pros! $50 saved!

 

holesaw the case by the 2 pin abs pump connector and resolder the joints. all over youtube

 

It sounds like you're saying that since I essentially have all the tools I should stop being lazy.

Very well. I'll do it myself.

 

It sounds like you're saying that since I essentially have all the tools I should stop being lazy!

Very well. I'll do it myself.

 

Hi yellowbandit,

By far the most common diagnostic trouble code for your symptoms is C1095 Pump Motor Failure, and by far the most common cause is cracked solder joints for the two electric pump contact pins on the ABS Module circuit board. For decades, ATE ABS Modules have been notorious for solder joints that were "starved" of solder or "cold," meaning insufficient heat was applied during the soldering process, from the factory. The solder in these poor joints cracks over time, causing intermittent or permanently open electrical connections.

Some owners take a shortcut and use a hole saw to cut through the case over the pump contacts and re-flow and supplement the solder on just the to pump pins. But in every module I have opened, I have found several other cold, starved or cracked joints besides just the two pump pins. So I cut the entire back off of the case and re-flow and supplement all of the solder joints, including those for the small pins of the large electrical connector where all the wheel speed sensors, brake fluid level sensor, brake switch, CAN lines and other communication wires connect. You will save yourself potential problems down the road if you attend to all of the solder joints while you have the case open.

Here's one DIY tutorial from Dan Jansen and hosted by our member Gus at his jagrepair.com website:

ABS Module Repair DIY

Note that it is often possible, if you are careful, to do this job without disconnecting any of the brake fluid hydraulic lines. If you can access and remove the ABS Module/Modulator mounting bracket nuts/bolts, you may be able to carefully bend the brake pipes and maneuver the assembly so you can disconnect the electronic module from the modulator valve so you can repair the module on the bench while leaving all of the hydraulic lines connected to the modulator so you don't have to bleed air out of the fluid when you're done.

Cheers,

Don

 

Still, how sure are you that it is not one of the wheel sensors? They are dirt cheap on Amazon and easy to replace. Fixed mine; replaced them one by one until I found the offending unit (RF). Still getting an occasional fault when crossing the gate sensor field in my condo driveway, but goes out next start up.

Not all OBD readers read the C codes 1145, 1155, 1165, 1175 correctly.

 

I might also have a wheel sensor issue, but I at least have a module issue. I get no response from the abs module when I try to check its codes.

 

Are you certain your scan tool can read Chassis (C-prefix) codes? Most OBDII scanners can only read Powertrain (P-prefix) codes. There are some affordable scanners from Foxwell and iCarsoft that can reportedly read Chassis, Body (B-) and Network (U-) codes. Some of the other members who are participating in this thread may know the details or a search of the forums should locate posts with the details. I use an Autel MaxiSys Elite or sometimes an old Launch CReader VIII, or, when absolutely necessary, Jaguar-Land Rover WDS, IDS or SDD.

Cheers,

Don

 

Yes. A Foxwell 630.