Hey folks, just looking for a little bit of advice / sanity check on a new (to me) Jag I'm looking at purchasing.

It's a 1999 XJ8, long wheelbase with the 4.0 L. My favorite part - it's in British Racing Green. A fine-looking specimen. It has 95k miles. It looks to be very clean for its age. Paint is in good shape, minor wear on the leather. Everything seems to work, and it drives well. No major mechanical issues apparent. Lemon Squad report came back clean except for the cup holders are broken and a couple small scratches. Carfax report is clean, if sparse.

That latter part is mostly what I'm wondering about. The dealer wants $7900 for it. That sounds reasonable to me.
However, there are some gaps in the Carfax where it looks like it was only serviced a couple times between '04 and '20 (though the registration was renewed annually so apparently it passed inspections). It's had the battery and spark plugs replaced, and the fuel injection system flushed. That's mostly it. From browsing around on these forums, it seems like this has one of the Nikasil engines. Near as I can tell, it hasn't had any work to address that. I also don't see any record of work for the water pump or timing chain tensioners. Therefore, I expect to have to check those out and address them pretty soon here as it's approaching 100k mi.

Assuming it'll need that work coming up here shortly, does $7900 sound like a fair price? Am I overlooking anything?

 

Without driving it or seeing any more, I'd say more like $4500 and for one main reason. One of the simplest repairs has not been done. Look at the bottom pic, to the right at the bottom at the shock tower. Its orange, that's factory, its crumbling, you can see it...these need replaced.
That means most likely you will need...
along with the shock tower bushings...
*shocks, all 4 corners
*rear dampers
*possibly wheel bearings, this requires at least a 20 ton press which you may wish to have done by someone else. These are not tapered bearings like a Chevy, they are press sleeved.
*ball joints
*suspension bushings, both these and the ball joints require disassembly of the front, which isn't terribly hard, but time consuming and you want to do all the work at one time.
*most possibly the tensioners haven't been done, again, not terribly hard, but roughly a 10-15 hr job. Closer to 10 since you don't have a SC to deal with.
water pump, original had plastic impeller.
*thermostat housing (should be metal, not plastic)
*plugs
*This is also an AJ26 motor, they have nikasil lined cylinders. After this length of time, it shouldn't be a problem anymore. But they would flood and be an absolute bear to start...but there is a procedure if it ever does happen.
*As well with the green paint and not to ruin your aspect of it. But any green Jaguar is racing green...we can show you the story later for explanation.

Also, at the top of this forum is a list of Stickies. In the How To part, there is a list of items to check before purchase, its older, but still viable. There is also a TSB section for review.
I'm very sure there will be some other added comments from members for you to review.

 

Thanks for the detailed response, Highhorse.

I'll see how far I can talk him down, given that it'll require a good amount of work if I do end up buying it.

 

I think the price is too high. The whole used car market is crazy right now, but I cant imagine that a 23-year old Jag with a motor that has a poor reputation is in high demamd.

I have the same car. Got it a little over a year ago. Love the car, especially how good it looks sitting in a parking lot full of SUV's. And, the comments I get from random folks has added to the fun of owning it. But...it is a finicky piece of art. Lots of sweat and frustration involved. I haven't been keeping up with all the work I have done but there have been plenty of my weekends dedicated to just keeping it going. Thankfully, the knowledge available on this forum has limited my time paying a shop to make the repairs. I am not trying to discourage you. I want you to be prepared for the potential of this car needing more attention than a used Honda Accord. I personally have enjoyed doing some of the work as I learned from it. But there has been more than one morning where I crossed my fingers hoping the car would just make it to work and back home.

 

I also think the price is way high especially for a car with some serious time gaps in its history and a lot of work in front of it. I have had one for 12 years, taking it from 84,000 to 135,000 miles and you can expect to replace the chains, thermo housing, valve cover gaskets, fuel pump and P/S pump, alternator and starter, repair the ABS module, even the differential. The door opening mechanism will break. All "known defects." to say nothing about the A drum ($$$) in the tranny. Age is now the enemy for a lot of the components. Parts are not too difficult to find, used or even discounted OEM parts, but it will be needing something -- always.

They are cars to love, no question. If I ever tire of walking up to it, it will be time to say good bye, They take a lot of care and cash.

 

same interior

same color

Bought my XJ8 with 89k for less than 4k, looks better now than as depicted. Great car, came with service records showing new trans at 50k miles. But, timing chain tensioners were never replaced, and it's about time for a DIY job (on the uppers), judging from the motor sound on starting. This is a big problem area on these cars. Otherwise, zero complaints.

 

The British Racing Green is a big plus and the mileage isn't bad. The oatmeal interior is a plus in my book. Gaps in the CarFAX could reflect alack of service although it could be that it was self serviced. You will definitely need to replace the timing chain tensioners and related components unless inspection reveals that already accomplished.
The bottom line is ...What is the Jaguar worth to you?

 

Hey all. Sorry to disappear for a bit - just been a busy start to the summer.

Thanks for all of the advice. Much appreciated!
After thinking about it some more, I decided to go ahead and get it. I was able to talk him down, but only a little bit. Might still've been a bit high, but ... beauty in the eye of the beholder and all that!

Anyhow, the news gets better. I took it to a local mechanic I trust and who specializes in European imports. He took a look, and lo and behold - the timing chain tensioners had already been done! So I reckon that saves me a good bit.
He said overall it's very clean and in excellent condition for a car of its age. I've had a few things done already: brake fluid, thermo housing, valve cover gaskets, shock bushings, etc.
I'll probably replace the tires soon since I realized they're coming up on 12 years old even though the tread is fine. Other than that, I'll probably do some work on it slowly over time.

So far it drives almost like a dream. Super smooth and quiet. I'm very impressed with it. In a lot of ways it's nicer than our '17 F-PACE R-Sport haha. "They don't make 'em like they used to..."
The only things that make me a bit anxious are a minor "tick" at very low speeds that I can feel through the steering wheel, and a slight vibration that I feel above ~50+ mph. Anything I should be on the lookout for, or am I being paranoid?

 

Beautiful specimen, Jon!
Looks like the leather is in good shape too.
Mine has some cracking but nothing too bad.

 

I highly recommend getting the main pressure regulator valve in the transmissions valve body replaced ASAP.

Maybe list what weight engine oil you’re using in regards to the ticking noise.

It’s possible that the tires need balanced. Just take one step at a time when your chasing a vibration.

 

Will note the pressure regulator valve for the next time I visit my mechanic (probably soon to put these tires on).

Ahh good point. I haven't changed the oil yet since the level was fine when I got it, so I don't know what weight it is. I can only guess 5w30, but who knows. I will probably change it soon though and put in an additive. It's hot in the summer here, high 90s Fahrenheit during the day and high 60s at night. Should I use a higher weight maybe, at least for the summer?

I'll have him balance when the tires are replaced here shortly and see if that fixes the vibration. Probably have an alignment done too while I'm at it.

 

These cars will ride very well, its one of their traits. But beware, with a steel body, the weight can hide some issues. Be sure to have your tech review the whole steering assembly and as I mentioned above, check those shock tower bushings.

Definitely get an oil change with the correct weight...5/30...and as Addicted points out, one step at a time chasing a vibration.
This is the regulator valve kit he speaks of also... https://www.ebay.com/itm/12199764772...sAAOSwjDZYkig~

 

Getting it in to do the tires and balance week after next and will change the oil at the same time. I asked him to check out the regulator valve while it's there as well. Thanks for the link.

Bushings already done, per your advice I might add

 

The regulator valve is a known issue and checking it will require dropping the transmission pan, thus you may as well do a new filter there as well. But if your going to drop the pan, you may as well have it available and ready for him to do.
FYI, the regulator valve upgrade is made to prevent damage to the "A" drum. Do a site or web search on, "A" drum ZF5HP34 and you'll get many responses.
Here is a video by a transmission guy who explains this quite well and how to install it, he a few other videos of that trans also...

 

Thanks, that's really helpful information. He seemed hesitant to do it as "preventative maintenance" but I'm going to ask him to anyway. Guess I'll go ahead and buy the valve kit linked above and a filter and bring them with me for him. I can cross my fingers it's already been replaced (like the tensioners were!), but I doubt it.

 

The two plastic pipes to the header tank of your engine are connected wrongly which will cause the coolant to be pushed out and the system will be under no pressure (high risk of boiling). Has your mechanic already corrected this? A special tool is needed to disconnect these two pipes but it can be done with improvised tool and care not to damage/break the connectors.

Pipes as connected on your engine:


Pipes as they should be connected:

 

If your Indy specializes in European cars, then he should know those transmissions go bad. I know the same transmissions are in BMW and I believe Audi(?) does as well. My old boss knew they went bad and he doesn’t recommend the PRV either. Why is that? Because he makes a TON OF MONEY off of getting it rebuilt or buying the car with a bad transmission for $500 and parting it out for even more money. Either way it’s a win. Replacing the PRV is a win for you. Now, this isn’t to say that the bore of the valve body is any good but, the good news is that the valve body section is available new also. Chances are that your Indy is just going to install it and be done no matter what the bore of the valve body that this PRV sits in looks like anyways. All they care about is getting the car in and getting the car out as fast as possible.

My advice to you to making your transmission last even longer is this...
When you start the engine up cold, let the engine idle down to about 800 rpms BEFORE you move the shifter at all. That should take about 10-15 seconds. The reason is because when you start it up and immediately put it into gear, the engine rpms are roughly 1300 rpms. Just think about this for a second. If the transmission is in park and your idle is hypothetically at 2500 rpms, your not going to put it in gear because you know that’s not good for the car. It’s kinda the same thing when you first start it up cold. Let it idle down first then shift into gear and you should be alright. I’m going to assume that the ATF hasn’t been replaced in the transmission at all. See if he can blow out the transmission oil cooler (both lines also) with compressed air so he can get as much of the old oil out as possible.

 

Great catch on the overflow pipes! Fix that immediately! Easy job to replace the shock towers. The car looks familiar; maybe once owned by an ex-forum members.