bad or good deal ?
hi guys . I saw 2001 xj8 for sale for about 1500$ the surprising thing is it has 90k miles . okay so called the seller and he started the car after 3 tries well there's valve cover oil leaks and ticking noise dirt here n there but didn't see something serious like engine shaking or misfiring or smoke . the only thing that scare me is the transmission I tried to shift the from d to 4 it couldn't engage as it should and there was tick sound while changing gears . needs paint . it has new tyres and AC is cold .
I will offer 1300$ . is that good deal ?
thanks .
I will offer 1300$ . is that good deal ?
thanks .
That's not the only leak, rather probably needs to pull the engine and replace every seal, if not today, soon.
Lets assume it needs the tensioners and chain guides done but they'll get the valve cover gaskets and front oil seal done in the process.
Need to assume the A-drum is toast. Probably best to source a good used transmission and install a Transgo or Sonnax valve body kit.
This is the big one unless you want to cheap out on a twenty footer in baked enamel.
As a parts car, it certainly contains much more than that value of individual used parts, but you'd have to consider the value of your time in stripping the parts off, marketing them and shipping and whether you've got the space to store it for however long it will take to sell everything. I.e. you don't want to sell everything and find you've made barely a nickel an hour for your time. On the other extreme, if you fixed everything and had it painted, you'd spend probably $12,000 to $15,000 all in (at shop rates) and then it'd only be worth maybe $6,000 tops because its not "restored", rather its still a 90K+ mile old car no matter how cool it is. In the middle somewhere is making it safe and reasonably reliable but skip the cosmetics and let it leak. You'd still be into it for $6,000 to $7,000 and its worth $3,000 as a daily beater, granted an unusual one. So regardless what you want to do with it, I think RJ is right, the benchmark really is its "salvage value". Maybe call around some salvage yards in your area and see what they'd offer, then offer maybe $100 more than the salvage yards would.
Lets assume it needs the tensioners and chain guides done but they'll get the valve cover gaskets and front oil seal done in the process.
This is the big one unless you want to cheap out on a twenty footer in baked enamel.
As a parts car, it certainly contains much more than that value of individual used parts, but you'd have to consider the value of your time in stripping the parts off, marketing them and shipping and whether you've got the space to store it for however long it will take to sell everything. I.e. you don't want to sell everything and find you've made barely a nickel an hour for your time. On the other extreme, if you fixed everything and had it painted, you'd spend probably $12,000 to $15,000 all in (at shop rates) and then it'd only be worth maybe $6,000 tops because its not "restored", rather its still a 90K+ mile old car no matter how cool it is. In the middle somewhere is making it safe and reasonably reliable but skip the cosmetics and let it leak. You'd still be into it for $6,000 to $7,000 and its worth $3,000 as a daily beater, granted an unusual one. So regardless what you want to do with it, I think RJ is right, the benchmark really is its "salvage value". Maybe call around some salvage yards in your area and see what they'd offer, then offer maybe $100 more than the salvage yards would.
The motor is probably toast too. The ticking sound you hear might be dropped valve seats caused by the motor overheating. I know because the first Jag I bought had a ticking sound, before I knew anything about these cars, and I thought it only need valve adjustment. I was wrong.
It is probably why it didn't start the first time since it doesn't have proper compression. Do a compression test. If you any cylinders that are very low or zero it is probably the valve seats.
It is probably why it didn't start the first time since it doesn't have proper compression. Do a compression test. If you any cylinders that are very low or zero it is probably the valve seats.
Trending Topics
I have been in your exact position twice. I'm pretty sure you can negotiate that price a lot lower.
I got a 2001 xj8, 114 K miles in good shape with a bad, had to be replaced, differential. 1500 for the car , 125 for the differential, several little things, many hours of labor
I got a 2002 xj8, good shape, bad transmission, A Drive, 71 K miles (really) no ac, few little things, 750 dollars (really), new used trans, 450 dollars. many hours of labor.
Both are running very well. I've put thousands of miles on them, so far so good.
For me the basics of the game are: Its always a gamble, and we like to work on the cars, right? With a questionable trans and questionable engine this one may not be a good bet.
The compression test advice is spot on. I purchased an econo box nissan and did a compression check AFTER purchasing it wish I tested it before.
Good luck, jeff xj8
I got a 2001 xj8, 114 K miles in good shape with a bad, had to be replaced, differential. 1500 for the car , 125 for the differential, several little things, many hours of labor
I got a 2002 xj8, good shape, bad transmission, A Drive, 71 K miles (really) no ac, few little things, 750 dollars (really), new used trans, 450 dollars. many hours of labor.
Both are running very well. I've put thousands of miles on them, so far so good.
For me the basics of the game are: Its always a gamble, and we like to work on the cars, right? With a questionable trans and questionable engine this one may not be a good bet.
The compression test advice is spot on. I purchased an econo box nissan and did a compression check AFTER purchasing it wish I tested it before.
Good luck, jeff xj8
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
amcdonal86
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
51
Apr 1, 2012 06:47 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)









