Bulb Failure?
Hi all. I keep getting a Rear Bulb Failure warning every time I have opened and closed the boot (trunk). If I switch the car off and start up again, the problem disappears and it doesn't come on again until next time I open and close the trunk?
I've cleaned all the connections, put new bulbs in all round, done a reset, and it's still getting the 'bulb failure'.. anyone any ideas?
As always, electrics stump me every time!
Paul
I've cleaned all the connections, put new bulbs in all round, done a reset, and it's still getting the 'bulb failure'.. anyone any ideas?
As always, electrics stump me every time!
Paul
Thanks KC, I'll check that tomorrow. Could it be 'normal' that it doesn't come on if I switch off and start the car again? Does switch off and on again reset anything?
Paul
Paul
Never experienced that but I have seen the wiring be ajar & get pinched constantly w/ trunk operation. Just follow the wiring all the way you can & look for breaks.
Just an FYI, when I had a similar situation I installed new bulbs, cleaned contacts, chased my tail.............. and a new battery was the cure!
Last edited by Carnival Kid; Mar 27, 2020 at 07:23 PM.
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Sorry it's taken a little while to get back, the problem can be quite intermittant so I have to wait a while until it happens again. The error has never happened with the car stood running, only when it's out on the road, so as we are on 'lockdown' here, getting out isn't that easy! The fact that it only happens when moving suggests to me that there's a loose connection or a wire that's shorting out?
This is what led me to try King Charles' advice first, checking the loom as it goes around the trunk support arms. Sure enough, there was some (2) frayed wires, I fixed these by cutting out the bad, resoldered and heat shrink. Really thought this was the problem, but no, still get the 'Bulb Failure' coming up sometimes.
The battery is 3 months old, a 120Ah one that only just fits in the allocated place, with the engine running I had 14.7v, the car turns over so well I suspect that if the engine siezed for any reason, the battery would throw the engine out of the car! So, I discounted the battery as the culprit.
grantorino62, I checked the lights and all are the correct bulbs etc, I still have bulbs in the tool kit that came with the car, assuming they're original, they didn't make a difference either?
Please forgive my ignorance, but what is a SLCM? Someone told me this may be the problem, I assume the last 2 letters are for Control Module?
Thanks for all your advice guys, still struggling to find this problem...
Paul
This is what led me to try King Charles' advice first, checking the loom as it goes around the trunk support arms. Sure enough, there was some (2) frayed wires, I fixed these by cutting out the bad, resoldered and heat shrink. Really thought this was the problem, but no, still get the 'Bulb Failure' coming up sometimes.
The battery is 3 months old, a 120Ah one that only just fits in the allocated place, with the engine running I had 14.7v, the car turns over so well I suspect that if the engine siezed for any reason, the battery would throw the engine out of the car! So, I discounted the battery as the culprit.
grantorino62, I checked the lights and all are the correct bulbs etc, I still have bulbs in the tool kit that came with the car, assuming they're original, they didn't make a difference either?
Please forgive my ignorance, but what is a SLCM? Someone told me this may be the problem, I assume the last 2 letters are for Control Module?
Thanks for all your advice guys, still struggling to find this problem...
Paul
Security Locking Control Module...........located in the trunk/boot next to the battery. Could be the cause of your problem.
Security Locking Control Module...........located in the trunk/boot next to the battery. Could be the cause of your problem.
I believe you could be right as I am experiencing another problem I have been dealing with. When I use the fob to open the car all the doors unlock except the drivers door (RHD)? Your other post on different things our cars can do helped me by describing how to alarm the car with just the key. I am not certain but it seems both the 'Bulb Failure' and the 'Door Locking' problem started around the same time?
Is there a way to confirm this, or is it a case of trying another SLCM? Thanks for your input on this, I believe you may have commented a few times on how frustrating these problems can get!
Paul
Hi CK, hope you and you're family are keeping healthy?
I believe you could be right as I am experiencing another problem I have been dealing with. When I use the fob to open the car all the doors unlock except the drivers door (RHD)? Your other post on different things our cars can do helped me by describing how to alarm the car with just the key. I am not certain but it seems both the 'Bulb Failure' and the 'Door Locking' problem started around the same time?
Is there a way to confirm this, or is it a case of trying another SLCM? Thanks for your input on this, I believe you may have commented a few times on how frustrating these problems can get!
Paul
I believe you could be right as I am experiencing another problem I have been dealing with. When I use the fob to open the car all the doors unlock except the drivers door (RHD)? Your other post on different things our cars can do helped me by describing how to alarm the car with just the key. I am not certain but it seems both the 'Bulb Failure' and the 'Door Locking' problem started around the same time?
Is there a way to confirm this, or is it a case of trying another SLCM? Thanks for your input on this, I believe you may have commented a few times on how frustrating these problems can get!
Paul
Paul,
I haven't had direct experience with the SLCM fixes, but there are a few threads on the forum that should help.............here are just a few that might help you, and a thorough search may bring up more if needed.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...iagram-189033/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ills%3B-82882/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...03-xj8-131193/
Hi CK, many thanks for your reply and the links. It seems there are so many different circuits/modules etc. that could be causing my problem. Hoping this Spring/Summer to be painting the car, and a complete overhall of all the interior, I've been collecting panels, interior spares, all sorts.. for a long time to do this. I think the best way forward is to get a matching SLCM from the breakers and check everything as I put it all back together during the overhall, it might become obvious where the problem is, I might be lucky and repair a bad connection without even knowing, or I might be back at square one? I do remember seeing the RH Front door locking very slowly using the fob as if a bad connection, this was roughly the same time the Bulb Failure Warning started. Next time I tried the door lock with the fob.. it didn't lock or unlock and never has since! It works perfectly using the key 'unlock then lock within 3 seconds' scenario.
Today the dash warning light come on, but when I did the usual (switch off and start again) it didn't go out... it stayed on. I checked the tail bulbs and one had blown, I fixed it and got no warning lights at all. Not sure if bulbs are simply good or bad, or if there could be a slow failure phase between good and bad? I guess I wait and see if the bulb replacement fixes the warning light, then see if I can trace the RH Front door problem separately? I wish I was a lot better at electrics!!!
Paul
Today the dash warning light come on, but when I did the usual (switch off and start again) it didn't go out... it stayed on. I checked the tail bulbs and one had blown, I fixed it and got no warning lights at all. Not sure if bulbs are simply good or bad, or if there could be a slow failure phase between good and bad? I guess I wait and see if the bulb replacement fixes the warning light, then see if I can trace the RH Front door problem separately? I wish I was a lot better at electrics!!!
Paul
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