engine have little vibration when cold start why?
#1
engine have little vibration when cold start why?
hi guys . I have a problem here I'm not sure if it's normal or not when I start the engine and it's cold I can feel the vibration of the engine from inside the car it's not shaking but vibration once it goes hot the vibrations become less and when idling the vibrations disappear I feel it's not really big problem but I really want to make this engine run smooth . I changed the spark plugs weeks ago to denso TT I feel it's better than the NGK iridium.
I appreciate your help. and I don't advice much here because I don't have much knowledge I actually learn from you . thanks again
I appreciate your help. and I don't advice much here because I don't have much knowledge I actually learn from you . thanks again
#2
I would recommend starting out first and get an OBD Scanner plugged in and see if you have any pending or stored codes. It should read P1111. That indicates all monitors are set.
If you have codes post the numbers and we can advise further.
If you have P1111 and no other codes then I would start going thru all of the things that effect air/fueling.
1. Make sure the air filter is clean and seats well in the housing.
2. Check the seal around the air cleaner cover for damage. Dirt can contaminate the upstream MAF sensor
3. Move on down the line and remove and clean the MAF sensor. Use only the special MAF sensor spray cleaner.
4. Remove the Part load breather tube and ensure it is clean and debris free.
5. Use a small drill bit and clean out the orifice in the cam cover where the part load breather tube mounts.
6. Remove and clean the full load breather.
7. Remove the dipstick and make sure the O-ring seal is undamaged.
8. Remove the air inlet duct from the throttle body and make sure the seal is in good condition.
9. Clean the throttle body with a soft cloth and throttle body cleaner.
10. Last if you don't know when the last time it was changed install a new fuel filter.
Run it for a few days and see if all settles out. If not then we can do a few inspections and cleaning on the electrical side of the combustion triangle.
If you have codes post the numbers and we can advise further.
If you have P1111 and no other codes then I would start going thru all of the things that effect air/fueling.
1. Make sure the air filter is clean and seats well in the housing.
2. Check the seal around the air cleaner cover for damage. Dirt can contaminate the upstream MAF sensor
3. Move on down the line and remove and clean the MAF sensor. Use only the special MAF sensor spray cleaner.
4. Remove the Part load breather tube and ensure it is clean and debris free.
5. Use a small drill bit and clean out the orifice in the cam cover where the part load breather tube mounts.
6. Remove and clean the full load breather.
7. Remove the dipstick and make sure the O-ring seal is undamaged.
8. Remove the air inlet duct from the throttle body and make sure the seal is in good condition.
9. Clean the throttle body with a soft cloth and throttle body cleaner.
10. Last if you don't know when the last time it was changed install a new fuel filter.
Run it for a few days and see if all settles out. If not then we can do a few inspections and cleaning on the electrical side of the combustion triangle.
Last edited by avern1; 04-05-2019 at 04:11 PM.
The following users liked this post:
RA110623 (07-01-2019)
#3
Let's review this again: so folks can try to help you. We need to know where you are located. We need to know what model vehicle you have (put it in your signature), year, XJ8 or XJR, it makes a difference.
Very likely you still have an air/vacuum leak in your cam cover gaskets (elsewhere you hinted that they were leaking, cuz you had oil on your plugs). Did you get those fixed. It matters. You might need to clean the MAF sensor, tighten the air hose from the air filter to the throttle body; maybe clean the throttle bore and plate, as well. Did you ever check you secondary timing chain tensioners -- a miss at idle is frequently caused by a jumped timing chain. On a Z3 years ago, I busted my trying to chase down a rough idle -- the plastic secondaries had cracked and allowed the chain to jump a sprocket, a quick fix, not cheap, but caught before it destroyed the engine. In the X308, ruining an engine occurs almost always when the tensioners fail.
Whatever happened with the problem you had with front shock mounts? It is very useful to all of us when you report back: that is how we learn. Even the pros (and thankfully we have many really good ones on this forum) find new issues as cars get really old . . .
Did you get your power steering fluid issue fixed? Lucas makes a power steering cleaner and lubricant -- might try it.
This was written as Vern was sending. Do his ideas. Especially new filter and codes.
Very likely you still have an air/vacuum leak in your cam cover gaskets (elsewhere you hinted that they were leaking, cuz you had oil on your plugs). Did you get those fixed. It matters. You might need to clean the MAF sensor, tighten the air hose from the air filter to the throttle body; maybe clean the throttle bore and plate, as well. Did you ever check you secondary timing chain tensioners -- a miss at idle is frequently caused by a jumped timing chain. On a Z3 years ago, I busted my trying to chase down a rough idle -- the plastic secondaries had cracked and allowed the chain to jump a sprocket, a quick fix, not cheap, but caught before it destroyed the engine. In the X308, ruining an engine occurs almost always when the tensioners fail.
Whatever happened with the problem you had with front shock mounts? It is very useful to all of us when you report back: that is how we learn. Even the pros (and thankfully we have many really good ones on this forum) find new issues as cars get really old . . .
Did you get your power steering fluid issue fixed? Lucas makes a power steering cleaner and lubricant -- might try it.
This was written as Vern was sending. Do his ideas. Especially new filter and codes.
Last edited by Jhartz; 04-05-2019 at 04:26 PM.
#4
Let's review this again: so folks can try to help you. We need to know where you are located. We need to know what model vehicle you have (put it in your signature), year, XJ8 or XJR, it makes a difference.
Very likely you still have an air/vacuum leak in your cam cover gaskets (elsewhere you hinted that they were leaking, cuz you had oil on your plugs). Did you get those fixed. It matters. You might need to clean the MAF sensor, tighten the air hose from the air filter to the throttle body; maybe clean the throttle bore and plate, as well. Did you ever check you secondary timing chain tensioners -- a miss at idle is frequently caused by a jumped timing chain. On a Z3 years ago, I busted my trying to chase down a rough idle -- the plastic secondaries had cracked and allowed the chain to jump a sprocket, a quick fix, not cheap, but caught before it destroyed the engine. In the X308, ruining an engine occurs almost always when the tensioners fail.
Whatever happened with the problem you had with front shock mounts? It is very useful to all of us when you report back: that is how we learn. Even the pros (and thankfully we have many really good ones on this forum) find new issues as cars get really old . . .
Did you get your power steering fluid issue fixed? Lucas makes a power steering cleaner and lubricant -- might try it.
This was written as Vern was sending. Do his ideas. Especially new filter and codes.
Very likely you still have an air/vacuum leak in your cam cover gaskets (elsewhere you hinted that they were leaking, cuz you had oil on your plugs). Did you get those fixed. It matters. You might need to clean the MAF sensor, tighten the air hose from the air filter to the throttle body; maybe clean the throttle bore and plate, as well. Did you ever check you secondary timing chain tensioners -- a miss at idle is frequently caused by a jumped timing chain. On a Z3 years ago, I busted my trying to chase down a rough idle -- the plastic secondaries had cracked and allowed the chain to jump a sprocket, a quick fix, not cheap, but caught before it destroyed the engine. In the X308, ruining an engine occurs almost always when the tensioners fail.
Whatever happened with the problem you had with front shock mounts? It is very useful to all of us when you report back: that is how we learn. Even the pros (and thankfully we have many really good ones on this forum) find new issues as cars get really old . . .
Did you get your power steering fluid issue fixed? Lucas makes a power steering cleaner and lubricant -- might try it.
This was written as Vern was sending. Do his ideas. Especially new filter and codes.
I drive 2002 xj8.
I think it's air leakage because when I bought the car the air intake had small crack but I fixed it with silicone but sounds like I need to change the air intake it may have other tiny cracks.
I didn't fix the valve cover gasket yet because the oil was not that much and the ignition coil boot had little oil on it only soon will fix it.
the I will see the chain soon .
the shocks were fine I went to another shop and he told me about bushings to change but I didn't change any bushing because it's expensive for now.
for the power steering nothing wrong I contacted prestone and they told me it's dex3 but it's just green nothing wrong
The following users liked this post:
Jhartz (04-06-2019)
#5
I would recommend starting out first and get an OBD Scanner plugged in and see if you have any pending or stored codes. It should read P1111. That indicates all monitors are set.
If you have codes post the numbers and we can advise further.
If you have P1111 and no other codes then I would start going thru all of the things that effect air/fueling.
1. Make sure the air filter is clean and seats well in the housing.
2. Check the seal around the air cleaner cover for damage. Dirt can contaminate the upstream MAF sensor
3. Move on down the line and remove and clean the MAF sensor. Use only the special MAF sensor spray cleaner.
4. Remove the Part load breather tube and ensure it is clean and debris free.
5. Use a small drill bit and clean out the orifice in the cam cover where the part load breather tube mounts.
6. Remove and clean the full load breather.
7. Remove the dipstick and make sure the O-ring seal is undamaged.
8. Remove the air inlet duct from the throttle body and make sure the seal is in good condition.
9. Clean the throttle body with a soft cloth and throttle body cleaner.
10. Last if you don't know when the last time it was changed install a new fuel filter.
Run it for a few days and see if all settles out. If not then we can do a few inspections and cleaning on the electrical side of the combustion triangle.
If you have codes post the numbers and we can advise further.
If you have P1111 and no other codes then I would start going thru all of the things that effect air/fueling.
1. Make sure the air filter is clean and seats well in the housing.
2. Check the seal around the air cleaner cover for damage. Dirt can contaminate the upstream MAF sensor
3. Move on down the line and remove and clean the MAF sensor. Use only the special MAF sensor spray cleaner.
4. Remove the Part load breather tube and ensure it is clean and debris free.
5. Use a small drill bit and clean out the orifice in the cam cover where the part load breather tube mounts.
6. Remove and clean the full load breather.
7. Remove the dipstick and make sure the O-ring seal is undamaged.
8. Remove the air inlet duct from the throttle body and make sure the seal is in good condition.
9. Clean the throttle body with a soft cloth and throttle body cleaner.
10. Last if you don't know when the last time it was changed install a new fuel filter.
Run it for a few days and see if all settles out. If not then we can do a few inspections and cleaning on the electrical side of the combustion triangle.
the seal around the air cleaner is fine but the air intake had crack and k fixed the crack but I think it's better to get new air intake and see if it can solve the problem
#6
#7
Vibration when cold
HI I have a 1999 3.2 xj8 (308) this car had the ceramic bores, if after starting from cold it was switched off prior to full working temperature it would flood and not start. The previous owner ran it for 7 years and i ran it for a further 3 then i noticed a very very slight vibration.
Last time that happened in a car it was a head problem so i was on red alert i tried everything imaginable to no avail. At this stage mileage was 137,000 miles serviced by a jag specialist every year and no error codes.
The vibration now started to creep in when the engine was hot and performance was well down, the specialist stated that the ceramic bores were about to fail so i had a secondhand engine fitted by the specialist.
Performance is good but when cold the vibration rocks the car and if engaged in gear the whole car vibrates and will not drive, no error codes,so far the specialist has tried new plugs, manifold seals, and throttle body with marginal improvement, when its hot its ok.
I heard the secondhand engine running i wish now i had driven the car.
The body on my car was subject to a £2,500 body make over 3 years ago, if it were not for that i would have sent it to the scrap man long ago, and cut my losses.
I'am of the opinion this new engine is the old type ceramic bore engine rather than a later engine with the steel liners,that i was led to believe, so buyer be on your guard.
In your case a small amount of vibration on starting from cold may develop into something worse than you may think, if your lucky ( which i hope you are it may just be dirty fuel.
So guys keep away from ceramic bores, make sure you drive the car before buying a second hand engine, .
Last time that happened in a car it was a head problem so i was on red alert i tried everything imaginable to no avail. At this stage mileage was 137,000 miles serviced by a jag specialist every year and no error codes.
The vibration now started to creep in when the engine was hot and performance was well down, the specialist stated that the ceramic bores were about to fail so i had a secondhand engine fitted by the specialist.
Performance is good but when cold the vibration rocks the car and if engaged in gear the whole car vibrates and will not drive, no error codes,so far the specialist has tried new plugs, manifold seals, and throttle body with marginal improvement, when its hot its ok.
I heard the secondhand engine running i wish now i had driven the car.
The body on my car was subject to a £2,500 body make over 3 years ago, if it were not for that i would have sent it to the scrap man long ago, and cut my losses.
I'am of the opinion this new engine is the old type ceramic bore engine rather than a later engine with the steel liners,that i was led to believe, so buyer be on your guard.
In your case a small amount of vibration on starting from cold may develop into something worse than you may think, if your lucky ( which i hope you are it may just be dirty fuel.
So guys keep away from ceramic bores, make sure you drive the car before buying a second hand engine, .
Last edited by justine3.2; 07-01-2019 at 01:54 PM.
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#8
HI I have a 1999 3.2 xj8 (308) this car had the ceramic bores, if after starting from cold it was switched off prior to full working temperature it would flood and not start. The previous owner ran it for 7 years and i ran it for a further 3 then i noticed a very very slight vibration.
Last time that happened in a car it was a head problem so i was on red alert i tried everything imaginable to no avail. At this stage mileage was 137,000 miles serviced by a jag specialist every year and no error codes.
The vibration now started to creep in when the engine was hot and performance was well down, the specialist stated that the ceramic bores were about to fail so i had a secondhand engine fitted by the specialist.
Performance is good but when cold the vibration rocks the car and if engaged in gear the whole car vibrates and will not drive, no error codes,so far the specialist has tried new plugs, manifold seals, and throttle body with marginal improvement, when its hot its ok.
I heard the secondhand engine running i wish now i had driven the car.
The body on my car was subject to a £2,500 body make over 3 years ago, if it were not for that i would have sent it to the scrap man long ago, and cut my losses.
I'am of the opinion this new engine is the old type ceramic bore engine rather than a later engine with the steel liners,that i was led to believe, so buyer be on your guard.
In your case a small amount of vibration on starting from cold may develop into something worse than you may think, if your lucky ( which i hope you are it may just be dirty fuel.
So guys keep away from ceramic bores, make sure you drive the car before buying a second hand engine, .
Last time that happened in a car it was a head problem so i was on red alert i tried everything imaginable to no avail. At this stage mileage was 137,000 miles serviced by a jag specialist every year and no error codes.
The vibration now started to creep in when the engine was hot and performance was well down, the specialist stated that the ceramic bores were about to fail so i had a secondhand engine fitted by the specialist.
Performance is good but when cold the vibration rocks the car and if engaged in gear the whole car vibrates and will not drive, no error codes,so far the specialist has tried new plugs, manifold seals, and throttle body with marginal improvement, when its hot its ok.
I heard the secondhand engine running i wish now i had driven the car.
The body on my car was subject to a £2,500 body make over 3 years ago, if it were not for that i would have sent it to the scrap man long ago, and cut my losses.
I'am of the opinion this new engine is the old type ceramic bore engine rather than a later engine with the steel liners,that i was led to believe, so buyer be on your guard.
In your case a small amount of vibration on starting from cold may develop into something worse than you may think, if your lucky ( which i hope you are it may just be dirty fuel.
So guys keep away from ceramic bores, make sure you drive the car before buying a second hand engine, .
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