I'm replacing the front rotors on an XJ8 vdp 1998.

Do I need any special tool to change these other than the 7mm hex?

I keep seeing that ABS rotor nut socket, didn't need that on my rear wheels.

tia

 

If you are replacing just the rotor, you won't need to do anything with the ABS nut; only if you are replacing the bearings.

After your remove the 2 (7mm sounds about right) hex glide pins and take off the caliper, the bracket will still be in the way. There are 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket on. I think (not positive though) that it is a 17mm. If they have not been removed before, they will be very tight; and may have had some thread locker in place as well. Plan to use a breaker bar and/or cheater pipe to remove.

Once the bracket is off, a few love taps will take the brake rotor right off.

 

In case a couple 'love taps' do not loosen the rotors due to corrosion you might want to loosen the lug nuts about one turn each and rock the car front to back and side to side. That provides a couple tons of force compared to a 'love tap'.

 

This IS a very good method. Before you even remove the wheel, do this, and rotors will come off easy. Otherwise the "love taps" will turn into "violently swinging the hammer" scenario.

 

You say "violently swinging the hammer" like it's a bad thing.

 

It is! When the head comes off, and lands on the hood! (don't ask, it's too painfull to remember).

 

lol thats funny

 

forum member princemarko mentions

" the rotor might be stuck on there, lightly tap the rotor with a hammer while rotating around until it loosens enough to pull it off."

in his forum thread Step by Step Guide to Rotor and Brake Pad Replacement with Photos (post# 1):

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...q-35063/page3/

I also made a PDF file from that post to make easier to search for a particular step and also to print the information (6 pages in the file):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mwfigx0jk0...eplacement.pdf

You have 2 choices on viewing the PDF file on the dropbox.com webpage - Preview (view the PDF files pages) or Download (either open or save options - it does not matter - both opens the PDF file using PDF software). The Preview can be slow or stuck - use your browser refresh (F5 key) to get it to display the pages.

I give full credit on the first page of the PDF file to princemarko, I also give him praise for his excellent photos and DIY writeup.

Jim Lombardi

 

Some folk have followed testpoint's advice to loosen the wheel nuts a bit, drive the car a few feet and stamp on the brakes.

 

Thanks Jim. There was other members that chimed in on some tips and tricks towards the end, especially with bleeding the brakes which I did not do.

Rotor and pad replacement on the Jaguars are ridiculously easy. I'm about to change out the front pads/rotors again and I think i'm going to spray the calipers to hide the rust...

 

I added a few more comments in my last posts, I am sure forum members appreciate amount of time and effort that princemarko put forward to create the DIY.

Here is another Rotor replacement writeup (sorry no photos in this one) that is on the JEC BB (Jaguar Enthusiasts club UK) by their forum member brakebuster:

JEC BB Index <-- Webpage full link without www jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?p=16307#p16307 (well I finally found a way to access a forum post by using its post number).

He uses a couple of terms I had to look up (Kuckle bar and lump hammer).

"the support bracket had to come off, two 17mm bolts on the back that were, to say the least, very tight, but they came with the aid of a knuckle bar and a lump hammer"

Knuckle bar is a Pry bar (???) and Lump hammer is a sledge hammer.

He also mentions depressing Caliper Piston to remove the Caliper.
"the caliper and pads to be lifted off the carrier and away from the disc after a little levering to move the piston back a few mm's , secured the calliper and removed the pads, this was cleaned up and copper slip was applied to all relevant surfaces, "

"disc could come off, its a tight fit and slight corrosion made it bind a little, but said lump hammer gently tapped it from behind while turning the hub so it came off even,"

Jim Lombardi

 

Jim,
Thanks for the help.
I'm going to be pedantic since I know you folk don't know a wrench from a spanner !!
A lump hammer is one of these

whereas a sledge hammer is the sort used by convicts !!

 

Steve
I have a mason club hammer that looks alot like the photo of the Lump hammer.
It was one of the dad's mason tools (he was a stone mason).

I use it to install the snow guide poles to outline the edges of our driveway. I have a long steel rod that I hammer into the ground that has the same diameter as the poles.

I probably could use it to tap the Rotors.

Jim Lombardi

 

Jim,
That's the chappy.
Can you guys get these

a Thor mallet - copper one face, rawhide the other.
Incredibly useful 'persuader'.

 

Is this not what came with many older Jags for the knock-offs? I loved the "Do" and Un-Do" instructions printed on the spinners.

Love that British terminology. Like near and off side to refer to a car like one would to a horse (excuse me - pony) while playing polo!

 

"Do" is much shorter than the new "installation is the reverse of removal" ... try fitting that on the spinners

Of course, "do-up" would at least be symmetrical with "un-do" in length

 

I like that "do-up" comment! Oh the next is sooo off topic.

Here in the states, the lower socio-economic people have for a long time referred to getting their "hair did." Bad grammer. (Instead of getting their hair done or a "hair-do")

The phrase has now become so wide spread that women of all classes jokingly refer to getting their "hair did."

I used to always comment when a woman said she got her "hair set." I would ask, "When is it supposed to go off?"