Hi
I've been replacing rotors and found loads of play in front wheel bearing so i gonna have to replace it, i was reading around but still have some questions
Why (other then double security) spring have to be compressed for the job, isn't whole assembly hold in place with the strut?
Is it possible to drive bearing out and in without the press?
What type of ball joint tool would work best, some of you managed to brake scissor type tool, will the clamp type like one below be up to the task?

On xj40 i used to drive out my bearing with specially prepared chisel and drive them in with the help of old bearing, backs with hub in place, fronts with the hub removed, there was a lot of forum voices stating that press is necessary but it never really was, now i'm wondering if i will be able to diy this job.
Bests
J.

 

The X308 has a one-piece double row ball bearing and NOT the tapered bearing like earlier models.

There are 2 sizes so get the correct one (76mm or 80mm).

A press is required.(as is a tool to remove the 'rotor-nut')

 

Press is the biggest obstacle here, the garages are closed and if it is not doable at home without press then i will go route of purchasing whole link/hub assembly
While it is not the finest method to drive bearings with hammer i wonder if it is doable, as for abs ring splitting and replacing is an option.
i didn't even notice grease deflecting ring, ball joint tool type looks ok will have to measure it before the purchase of course

 

To elaborate on what Bob provided, this is from the Workshop Manual...

 

Ok, i took the chance and made the purchase of abs ring tool and both ball joint separator types listed in the workshop manual,
I hope it will be smooth job, thank you guys for input
J.

 

You do not state the MY of the car. The early cars used a 76mm bearing and the later cars used 80mm. Be sure to get the correct one before replacing the part.

 

 

It is '98 so it is 76mm, got correct timken from rockauto at good price, all that stuff will take few days to arrive here so i have the time to mentally prepare for the job.

 

I personally don’t know how anybody can safely remove and reinstall the wheel bearing much less the hub without doing significant damage. A 20 ton press is what we use at the shop. That wheel bearing is held in the knuckle with such force that I imagine it would require a full length 10lb + sledge hammer and highly accurate hammer blows in the right spot to get any movement on it. I’m not saying you can’t do it, I’m just saying that the likely hood of getting it done without damage is unlikely in my opinion. I do wish you the best of luck.

 

Along with what A2B said, an equal amount of applied force should be used to push out the bearing squarely. Keep in mind your vehicle is 22+ yrs old and if those are the original bearings, then it'll be well seated. Plus depending on your climate, the possible salt and other elements create a very difficult removal unless you have a press. I have a friend who has a motorcycle shop and he had to use his 20 ton to get mine out and they were only 5 yrs old.

 

I think someone already was there and replaced the bearing, abs ring tooth is chipped out (not reluctor one) so probably someone tried to loose the thing with the chisel, while bearing won"t be 20 years old i imagine it gonna be royal pita nonetheless. I hope to be able to oven heat the assembly then cool bearing with the ice and knock it out fast, later apply reverse procedure heat the link and insert frozen bearing, that's the plan but i will have to look for local garage willing to press it in/out in case plan ends in the failure, The picture you paint is grim so i may still choose to reduce my suffering ad purchase whole assembly .

 

I've done the oven procedure on harmonic balancer's, most recently last spring on the Corvette. The depth of this bearing is what makes this difficult. Once you apply that type of heat, your committed, the grease and seal will be compromised.

 

The 98’ XJ8/R had the highest failure rate due to the smaller diameter bearing. My car is a 98’ XJR. Too much weight on the smaller bearings I suppose. Back in December 2018 I snatched both front knuckles off my car and replaced with 00’ XJ8 knuckles and new larger SKF wheel bearings so I wouldn’t have to worry about replacing the bearings as often. When the previous owner had my car, I had already replaced the front ones at least once if not twice in 5 years. If by some chance you don’t get those bearings out of your knuckles and find yourself looking for a different set, look for a 99’+ XJ8/R front knuckle assembly. Those have the larger bearings and will tend to last longer in my opinion.

 

Yep, too much weight and to hard cornering on roundabouts resulted is the right one going out first, left have some minimal play in it and will go sooner or later but can wait for now.
A2B I think you convinced me, i will purchase assembly with the larger bearing and keep previously bought bearing and abs tool for the left side. By the time i need it i will either purchase the press or find someone with the one and do the left side.
You are right Highhorse while vertical link has quite lower mass then harmonic balancer and would arrive at thermal equilibrium at lower safer level, all that is only the theory, and in practice i would be chiseling the thing like a monkey for two days, and then looking for new knuckle for other three and i'm not up to experiments at this time
So i'm off to search for the whole assembly

 

I just bought a 29 ton press and it helped a ton (actually 20 ton) when I was changing out bushings. Harbor freight press was only $80 after their sale and coupon!

 

$80 is what my buddy charged to press mine out, but I'm sure that's friend pricing and it was 16 yrs ago.

 

Yep, it is relatively cheap, the only drawback it won't have much use unless i start press bearings for the neighbors.