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So the noise my car made a while back has returned. I'm assuming it's the seal that has again failed. All other pulleys have been done so it's got to be that and it sounds exactly like last time.
The shop won't warranty the work because they recommended replacing the entire assembly, and I said no just do the seal(to save money). Now I'm stuck having to replace the seal myself because I won't pay what they're asking.
A.) How difficult is it to remove harmonic balancers?
B.) What is the part number for the rubber seal that goes in-between the balancers and is there a special way of installing it so that this doesn't happen again?
Everything else is running tip top, this damn seal just keeps failing.
Thanks for advice. If anyone is in San Antonio, TX and can help with this that'd be great.
If you replaced the seal once and it's leaking again I think you will just repeat this exercise over and over? If the seal keeps going out you have additional problems?
What "entire assembly" was the shop talking about? Sounds like they were right?
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Well this is the seal they're talking about. The last time this happened they said this needed to be replaced, but that they recommended the entire harmonic balancer system be replaced. Couldn't afford at the time so they just did this rubber o ring and it solved the issue.
It isn't a o ring that seals oil because the engine is dry as heck with no leaks.
Edit: mechanic said it's "The front seal in between the balancer and crank sprocket"
Double edit: how much is the harmonic balancer assy? For a 2000 XJR? I'm being quoted around 2k.
Last edited by booshiba; Jan 30, 2024 at 12:41 PM.
I'm thinking I will. But can you point to where to find this part in America? I Google it and I get tons of different parts in shopping, but then when I specify the car, the part doesn't fit.
There are 2 types, the NA engine with one pulley and the S/C engine with 2. Your pulley has delaminated, and as Bob has pointed out you can get it rebuilt.
The issue is getting it off, it's a big old bolt that needs a touch of heat on it to break the Loctite.
Special tool required to hold the pulley (and engine) whilst removing the bolt.
Once off a replacement can be fitted, a good used part from a breakers yard or sourced on the forum from someone breaking a 4.0/4.2 - you can upgrade to X350/XK-R pulley as they're a slightly bigger diameter, but the same length/diameter crank nose. Not used one so don't know about timing cover clearance. V belts ribs etc. Someone with experience may chime in.
The one you have is done.
Search for crank pulley on here for lots of info.