Hi guys I am struggling to find were the Tdc locking peg goes as I can't find were it fits.can some one tell me were to look as I'm doing the timming chains.thanks

 

Remove the crank position sensor. 8mm bolt. It is located under the car on the engine side of the bell housing, it is called the sump.

When the locking pin is in the engine is not at TDC. I can't remember for sure but I think it is 40° from TDC.

 

Please post your car info (mystery cars usually receive incorrect advice).

The cam/crank is timed at 45 degrees ATDC (NOT TDC) No piston is at the top and cannot contact a valve in this position.

Here are the tools and what to look for.




P.S. The triangle mark people argue about is ONLY found on the AJ26 engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please download my .pdf copy of Engine Repair Course 168 and READ, READ, READ!!!!!! Much info in that guide.

bob

 

Hi thanks for the reply.also I've tried to find were I can buy the locking pin no one seems to have one.any suggestions plz

 

I have heard of people getting a cheap deep socket that will fit the CKPS hole and grind the sides off to fit the oblong hole in the torque converter drive plate.

That leaves the cams to have the flats stay aligned.

A cheap Jaguar/Rover V8 timing alignment set might be worth investing in.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-97-0...53.m1438.l2649

There should be a similar set available in your country??

bob

 

Hi just a up date.thankyou very much for everyone who is helping me with my problems.well the latest is I have brought atimming chain locking kit in the UK for 37.00. And I have had this v-puller tool come today to get my pulley off.bottom one.great bit of kit fits in the v-pulley groves then screw the centre bolt down which I have done and I have applied heat.guess what will not budge.so I have left the puller on hoping it might just give over night with permenat tension applied.has any one got any more ideas as this is one he'll of a tight pulley.would wd40 help.oh bye the way the puller is only 16.00 pounds off eBay here's the item number if you wish to look 221720845313

 

Did you read the TSBs for damper removal???

bob

 

Hi I have just read it .I kind of understand it. Did you look at that item number on eBay for the tool I'm using.iwhat I used for the button is the original bolt.i have just partially screwed it in and then using the head of the crankshaft bolt to screw down the bolt from the v-pulley tool Im useing
to help pull it off crankshaft.so will that tool work or is something else holding it .or am I doing it wrong I'm a bit confused .

 

Hi I have just read it .I kind of understand it. Did you look at that item number on eBay for the tool I'm using.iwhat I used for the button is the original bolt.i have just partially screwed it in and then using the head of the crankshaft bolt to screw down the bolt from the v-pulley tool Im useing
to help pull it off crankshaft.so will that tool work or is something else holding it .or am I doing it wrong I'm a bit confused .so what I can see is the split cone is shampered at one end so the bolt tightens down onto this spreads it out inside the damper and holds the pulley on. If so my pulley should pull the damper forward and that It should slip over the bolt .am I sort of right .

 

Comes off with a standard style crank puller, I believe the TSB's mention rapping on alternating sides of the pulley with a hammer once the puller is engaged, to help break it loose. Once that initial bit is broken loose the rest will come easy. Some members have had lots of trouble getting the pulleys off, it can take quite a bit of force...

 

Hi thanks for all your replies I have now sorted it.how I did it I fitted a v-puller that fits each side of the crank pulley and the teeth fit in the groves.i then screwed down the centre bolt onto the crank bolt.i then applied heat and at the same time used a rattle gun and it pissed it off.i have now hit a mother problem which I will also do a new post on this.all chains are now fitted but the left side small chain has play up and down .I have released the 2 bolts holding the drive gears on end of camshaft and put a tool into the groves on cog to pull round the slack in chain.then I re-tightend the bolts to 120nm.then once I realise the camshaft locking tool the chain becomes slightly slack again.i had the problem with the other side but did this same procedure and that's fine.any suggestions. Plz

 

The oil pressure will expand the secondary tensioner to take up the slack when the engine is running. The valve spring pressure on one of the lifters will cause the cam to want to rotate BACKWARDS. That is causing the slight slack in the chain.

bob

 

Hi Bob do u have a email address .I made a video of the chain .if u could look to c if u think that's fine

 

I too intend to do the timing chain job, I have researched all the how-tos, videos, step-by-step tutorials, etc., and everything looks fine. But no one seems to mention that the crank sensor is hard to get at, I put my car (2001 XJ8 VP) on a friend's lift the other day and was surprised how difficult the crank sensor is to get at.........mostly because the rack and pinion and its associated hydraulic pipe is in the way, you can only just get the tip of you fingers in there. Add to that the screw that locates the crank sensor is not a hex head, but a torx, making it even more difficult to undo. How I am going to undo this and insert the crank locating tool seems to be extremely difficult considering I will be doing this laid on my back with the car on jacks in my garage. Am I missing something here, or is the crank positioning tool that difficult to insert?

 

Hi yes I have managed to get all mine done.the cranksensor I removed the screw by putting the tool between the pipe and rack..then once undone u can just about get thumb and finger onto screw and turn.it is very figgerty but it can be done. Also I give you a tip how to get the crank bolt undone.done dont put any locking pins in fly wheel.heat the bolt up then put socket onto nut and fit a good breaker bar.make sure the breaker bar is located between the bottom of engine and anti rolllbar. .bring bar down to the floor passenger side as engine turns clock wise.then get a assistant to hold pressure against socket then turn ignition on and then just a quick flick of key to starter position this will release the nut.