I'm new here and this is my first post. I just acquired a 2000 VDPSC that has all new coils and plugs, two new Denso fuel pumps, all new brake pads and rotors turned, new air filter, all fluids including the brake fluid replaced, and excellent tires. That's all I know about it so far. It starts and runs smoothly on the road and transmission shifts very smoothly, but sometimes the engine dies at the stop light. Here is my observation. After starting when cold the idle is 1200 RPM, then as it warms up the RPM slowly drops and at 900 RPM it begins to run rough, the roughness gets worse as the RPM decreases further and finally around 500 RPM it dies. It starts up easily and above 1000 RPM is smooth. I have been reading some of the posts on this subject and my symptoms seem compatible with a vacuum leak. Is it normal for the RPM to start out at 1200 and gradually drop during warm up? I am not receiving any codes, and CEL is off, but have not gone to the live info as I am lost with most of that data. MY forte is not auto mechanics but I enjoy wrenching and learning. The intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter is tight at both ends. There are rubber tubes everywhere especially with this SC. Will live data on the OBD2 help me? I wouldn't know where to begin to track down a vacuum leak if that is the problem.

 

Welcome to the forums Bribon, when you get a chance, could you introduce yourself here (site requirement, only takes about a minute)... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-intro-must-5/ ...be sure to put your Jags details in your Signature as well. This is important because different countries had different options and run on different fuels and such. This way someone with knowledge of the MY will be able to assist in the future.

To get started....for your question on startup, yes about 1150-1200 on a cold start and it gradually idles down in about 30-40 seconds. It does sound like a vacuum leak, for which I can recommend checking all your hoses for looseness and/or cracking and nipping off maybe 3/16-1/4" off the ends of the hoses to get a better seal for dried ends or replace the bad ones. Also, check your MAF sensor and gives it a cleaning with a MAF ONLY cleaner, check your intake filter and Part Load line for obstruction.

So, do you know if the clamp plate the duct seals (#3) have been upgraded? If I recall correctly, early models (like mine) had a smooth finish and the duct would suck out of the clamp with a hard acceleration. The newer ones (and upgrades) have a lip put on it. I replaced this so long ago I don't recall the exact details. Yours could also be old and simply need replaced for dry rot.

Another area of concern will be the brake boost line on the elbow into the SC on the passenger side. In the part pic I provided I do not know for sure if that is the one for the X308, please someone verify this. But, there is an o-ring that is well known to dry up, crack and cause vacuum issues as well....you can see it in the brass fitting. Thus when you step on the brake she can die. (added a real life pic of the brake booster line from someone's post on vacuum lines).

Ok, this should keep you busy going over this for a couple hours...let us know what you find.

 

Hello,

On air leaks -

An OBDII reader can help identify an unmetered air leak (a leak of air into the intake manifold between the MAF and the throttle body) - fuel trims and MAF flow can indicate these, but it's not certain.

The best way I have recently found is to smoke test. I picked up a smoke tester on Amazon for about 40 GBP and put some glycerine in it. It's basically a pumped smoke machine - make sure you get one with a pump in it, (meaning you don't need an air compressor) pulled off the brake servo vacuum line at the servo and injected smoke into the circuit, into the area between the throttle body and air box (lift off the top of the air box as if you were going to change the filter, put a bin liner over the air filter so the bag is over it completely and close it down, stops the smoke going through the filter and away). There are some great videos on YouTube as usual

I found my rubber gasket between the black plastic intake and throttle body was leaking badly, the MAF to air intake was leaking and the breather pipe between the intake and rocker cover was so badly broken it may as well not have been there. All visually undetectable without a strip down, some like the MAF seal I would never have found. This MAF leak example is reason enough to get a smoke test machine, you need all the air seals you can get on these cars!!

Good luck, let us know if you need more info on smoke test.

Edit - for what it's worth I had no errors visible or stored but the air leaks were huge.

 

Thanks for all the nice pictures. I will print it out. Where do I find pictures like that?. My factory manual is difficult to navigate with very small print and few pictures. I just my completed my intro and hopefully my auto info will appear at the bottom of my posts. The idea of a smoke generator caught my eye. You made some comments about some parts and used some language I am not familiar with. The one picture with the side by side large intakes matches my SC. You are suggesting I open that up to determine if the couplers are the newer type with the ridges. How do I open that up? Is it necessary to remove the SC? Remember you are dealing with a newbie to jag repair.
I have been reading posts and see a lot about timing chains. They apparently were changed in 2001 to a newer type that is highly recommended, but I have no idea if that mod was done by the prior owner. Is that a lot of work to check what chains I have? I want to bring this vehicle up to recommended standards, but right now I am struggling to understand what all these parts are and what they do. One thing at a time. I am thankful that the engine runs and the tranny shifts smoothly. The absence of active codes or the dreaded Restricted Performance message makes me think I am better off than many. Where can I find a repair manual with all those nice pictures?

 

(NOTE: Since you're in this area, you may want to think about going further and removing the SC to check the coolant lines that run under it. They are a PITA to replace.)

For checking your timing chain tensioners, pull one of the cam covers. You have primary and secondary chains and both have tensioners (orange bad, metal good). The secondaries are readily visible with the cam off, the primaries are midway down the front cover on the block and you'll need a scope to see them....check chains for tightness/looseness. Here's the tensioner replacement procedure done by blackonyx with detailed pics from the top of the forum in the How-To Section (around a 14-15 hr job barring skill level and patience)... http://jaguar.blackonyx.net/tech/timingchain.htm

Well Bribon, you can go to the SNG Barret site (https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/U...anada~2FUSA/43) and register (but not necessary, in case you need some parts) and once you put your vehicle details in you can review their exploded views of the Jags parts. Do some screen shots so you can print them out after for the ones you need. I C&P'd it from the NA US site, so your vehicle details should already be there.
You will also want to go and download the X308 workshop manual for most any repairs you will require (from site member Jim Lombardi)... https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/yet7a...u5biy&e=1&dl=0 ...you don't have to sign up, just prompt File top left and Download. It's too large to post here on site, thus the link. You can do pdf screenshots there as well, though they may be different and not as detailed as SNG's parts manual.

For this, the orange arrows point out the location of the 10mm bolts for the clamps. Reference the exploded view I posted above and you'll note there are (5) that they are attainable from just in front of the throttle body. (4) from under the inter-cooler using a 1/4" drive, 6-8" extension and a swivel (or bendy as the Brits refer to it), you'll be best served to have an extension tip magnet for the these underside ones. (2) are the easy ones from the top facing the front and thus a total of (7).

Now, after getting to those you'll want to loosen the 10mm bolts in the red circles (4 total on the corners, don't pull out of intake) then you should be able to slide it back and the assembly out. It's been awhile, I may have forgotten something, so please someone correct me if this is wrong.

 

Here's the TSB on those SC intake seals and clamps, I knew it was around here....

 

Thanks for all the information. I downloaded all that great info. The workshop manual is excellent. I have a lot of stuff to do. I noticed that my coolant had some red stuff in it which looks like rust. I need to purge and replace all the coolant. How is the best way to do that?

 

There is no reason to replace your coolant until you've done a pressure test first. I recently picked up this kit (it's reasonably priced) and it has worked well... Pump it up to about 15 lbs and make sure it holds that for at least 10-15 minutes and doesn't loose any compression. If it does, start looking around for dribbles. It's how I found my OEM coolant expansion tank had a weak point blemish in the tank itself that was leaking intermittently. You may find your octopus hose could have a leak as well. So don't change the fluid before checking the system.

As for how to do it when your done testing, you've got the manual...look it up.

 

OK Highhorse, I can see the need to make sure the system is tight. I do not have any coolant system testing gauges, since I normally just work on my airplane, so this is new ground for me. I should have checked the manual on draining and replacing coolant as you pointed out, it is all there. Prior to draining, I will pressure test the system. It requires pressure to refill the system and I have an adequate compressor but lack the gauges or the cap adapter. My cap has a small Schrader type valve in the center, but the picture in the manual looks like it uses a special cap with a tall adapter. Is that a Jag part? I will invest in the test equipment, but need a better understanding of the cap adapter.
In case you are curious as to my user name Bribon, it is the Spanish word for Rascal. I have a bilingual friend who has nicknamed me that.

 

Prompt the Amazon symbol provided, that's the link to tester. You will be testing it on the expansion tank.

My on/off GF is from Seville, she confirmed it.

 

I have downloaded all of the material provided by the members here and printed out some. In addition, I spent around 6 hours viewing threads on various topics, with the TSB providing some outstanding info and pictures. With the information I have received from this forum, plus what I have learned by surfing the many threads, I feel much better prepared to take on this project. The fact that there is no history on the vehicle, plus it has been sitting abandoned since 2010, makes it a real unknown. At this point, I feel a partial teardown is in order to inspect and replace the timing chains and tensioners, which if left unattended could destroy the engine. There are strange noises coming from the engine and although it runs fairly well, it has the Restricted Performance message off and on. My initial plan was to clean it up, which has been done, then get it running and drive it. At this point, after digesting all the info, I am not comfortable with that approach. I certainly would not take that approach with an aircraft. I have enough info and pictures to begin tackling the timing chains and also removing the SC to replace the coolant lines. Along the way, I probably will need some help and will return to this thread for assistance. Thanks to all that have provided me with the info I needed to begin restoring this vehicle to its former glory, Documentation of work performed is critical with aircraft, so I will employ that same discipline for this project. This work won't happen overnight, as I have other projects that need attention. Many of those rubber hoses will be rock hard and need replacing. Some look like they could be fabricated from generic hose. Is some hose material available for a DIY? Those with acute angle bends will probably need to be purchased and I hope are available..

 

I understand your position as an aircraft tech, my neighbor flew/serviced his private planes (Cessna's 150/172). He even rebuilt a crashed one he picked up, having the wings certified and such, the spars were damaged.

For the hosing, it is still quite readily available, check with your local Jag/Land Rover dealer, there pricing isn't always outrageous. I had to replace my intake duct pipe and they were cheaper than even used ones and shipping was free to them easy pick up.
Here's another source, Dave is a great guy and he gets his hands on new old stock and quality used stuff, email him if you have a parts request... Jaguar Parts - EverydayXJ
Be sure to check the How-To section at the top of the forum, where you'll find article write ups by members such as this timing detailed chain procedure (about a 10-12 hr job).... Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement
Don't know if you've seen it, but there's a regional section as well. Where you can find British/Jag auto clubs and meetings to pick up parts and find tech's for work you may not want to do... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/us-western-38/

Here's a few more resources:
SNG Barratt US | XJ Serie X308 - Canada/USA Categories
Jaguar Parts and Accessories — Welsh Enterprises
Genuine & OEM European Car Parts | BMW Volvo Audi VW Mercedes Saab | FCPEuro
European Auto Parts - Audi VW BMW Mercedes SAAB Volvo Mini Porsche Land Rover Jaguar
and yes, even Rockauto, they beat a lot of pricing for filters and such... https://www.rockauto.com/

If you have some woodwork to be done (he's 20 minutes from me and is used by members on site)... British Autowood - Woodwork Restoration, Auto Parts, Classic Car

 

More good info thanks. I have been through the DIY chain and tensioner repair thread with the really outstanding pictures. It doesn't excite me to take on this chain issue but knowing nothing about the car I have to do something, especially when avoidance may cause engine damage. Aircraft work is far easier than automotive, as aircraft systems are kept very simple. One thing I am not clear on is how do I know if my engine has VVT or do all 2000 vdp sc have vvt. The vvt is an important issue when replacing the chains.
I understand that if I find the newer aluminum tensioners during my inspection, that does not mean more was done. I like the fact that the secondary tensioners can be changed by just removing the cam covers and that is where I will start. If I stop with just replacing those, will that give me enough protection so I can take this car out on the freeway and put some miles on it? I am afraid to drive it anywhere now.. The restricted performance message comes and goes on engine idling and one post indicated that driving it may fix that. Is it safe to drive now with new secondary tensioners? FYI, I found the vacuum leak and fixed it, so the engine is idling fine now?
I can see what is going to happen when I take on a full replacement. I will end up with a new fuel pump and will replace the hoses as they will be all hard and often require sacrificing to remove them. What else will I see that needs changing out? I am accustomed to repairing or replacing anything that isn't up to standards in aircraft work and that philosophy will carry through with the jag , "Remember, If you don't take the time to do the job right, ask yourself when you will have time to do it again." .

 

Jag has been using VVT since late '98 on the later AJ27 motor. On the 2000 AJ27 (EDIT: non-SC models) it was updated. Follow those instructions by blackonyx and you'll be fine. The newer all metal tensioners are all that is available. You'll see the kits from so-called other companies at different prices, but these cars are over 23+ years old and there is probably only one manufacturer making all of them just putting them in different packages. So don't think a $400 set is better than a $200 one. You will probably see them cross reference with the Lincoln LS from that same time frame because it's almost the identical motor. Ford did own Jag from '89 until 2008, the yellow connector on the back of the radio literally says Ford on it.

So, your talking primary and secondary tensioners...the secondary are the short chain on top that sync both cams on each head. The primary are the long chains that sync the crank shaft for the cams. Both sets of chains should have descent tension on them when pressed, if not and there's play, metal tensioners or not, it may be time to replace them again...parts fail. When I pulled mine off, the primary chain had about 3mm of play from stretch when I laid the new over the old...which is a lot. Include the fact my guides were half broken and a couple tensioner had collapsed, it was a ton of play overall. I could hear the rowling of the chain when it ran and when I pulled the cam covers off I had some scars in the cover from the chain. If you find your guides are broken, then you'll need to pull the oil pan and clean it out...to include running your finger around the inside of the oil pickup checking for guide pieces.

Don't get paranoid about driving it, just don't go romping on it nor do any long drives until you verify the chain conditions. Keep it simple and local to get a good feel for her. You said she had new Denso pumps (those are OEM spec), so you should be absolutely fine in that territory. The only thing you didn't mention is whether the fuel filter had been replaced, it's back on the front side of the fuel tank. If you see it doesn't look replaced, then just replace it. It's a bit of a bear for the location and releasing the lines....I anticipate you may come back asking about it.

Main thing while you have the SC off is doing vacuum tests on the lines, feel for rigidity and if the ends are dried out and loose to fit on the nipples,....replace as needed or you can nip about 1/8-1/4" off the ends for a more snug vacuum fit. That brake boost one from Post #2, you may be able to get the o-ring out with a tool and find a replacement. I believe that is what I did using a multi piece o-ring set. That can save you some cash, because I believe that brass piece is an absolute PITA. If I recall, an A/C line compression tool is what is used to remove the plastic brake boost line. Be careful, it's plastic and 26 yrs old.

 

The supercharged cars do not have VVT.

 

Thanks for the correction Cafcpete, I'll go get a nice helping of humble pie.

 

I only remember because I have been reading the tech guide recently

 

It's been so long since I've had to get into mine, I thought they were on the AJ27 SC. But after reviewing, it's the later 4.2 and those after that have that setup. All good, I appreciate you correcting it.