I am preparing to pull my heads for a rebuild following my timing chain break and resulting valve damage. I have AllData and they do cover the head removal, but most of the images related to this procedure are blurred and the details are minimal. I would like to get more insight into removing the systems leading up to the removal of the intake manifold: knock sensors, injectors, fuel rail, etc.

There are so many detailed posts on the timing chain & tensioners, I thought there might be similar accounts of the head removal. Haven't found any yet, though.

Any tips or links on this?

 

You can get a one week subscription to the Jaguar TOPIx site for $25, single model and year. It might have what you want.

http://topix.jaguar.jlrext.com/topix/vehicle/lookupForm

 

You might wish to consider taking digital photos of all assemblies and layouts before dismantling. These can be very useful when months down the line you are reassembling the engine and also putting it back into the car. As digital pics, you can have them displayed on a laptop screen whilst working on the car.

 

Thanks guys - I did a 1 week sub on Topix, but there wasn't much there for the 01XJ... except for electrical-related docs.

Good tip on taking photos -my iphone has been my memory and notepad in one. It has helped on many occasions to have that "before" shot. Plus I can call for help...

 

When I had the free subscription a couple of weeks back, there was a section under service that covered the engine pretty well. I can't recall how it was referenced and the new site is configured differently, so I'm not going to be much help. If you signed up for the subscription for "All", then it should be there. It isn't a true motor's manual, but it was as good if not better than I have experienced on AlldataDIY in the past.

Check out this thread, there is a document that I recognized from the TOPIx site, it might help a little.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=38624

Good luck.

 

just stripped mine, if you need assistance, give me a shout. Depending on the damage it could be a handy job. Exhaust valves are expensive. You can use the headbolts again, if you think the engine hasn't been down before. If questionable, go see the local landrover, a lot cheaper (same as range rover 4.4)
Let us know how you get on, and good luck!

 

I am working through pulling the intake manifold and throttle body. From other posts it looks like the manifold is pulled with the fuel rail and injectors still attached, but the electrical connectors for the injectors need to be disconnected. What is the best way to disconnect them to avoid damaging the connectors?

Am I correct that there is no need to remove the fuel delivery from the manifold to pull it? I have disconnected the fuel lines, of course.

Thanks for any tips on this -

 

Got the manifold and throttle body off without a hitch. To answer my own question, the fuel rail and injectors stay in place with just a small spring clip to remove to get the injector electrical connectors out of the way.

It was as complicated as I expected, but easier. Yes, I took plenty of pictures to help remember where all those plugs and hoses go during reassembly.

Despite being very careful, one small breather hose snapped in two, but looks repairable; one throttle body electrical connector was also very brittle and chipped during removal, but is still useable if not easily replaceable.

Thanks to Chris at www.blackonyx.net/tech for his Heater Hose Replacement documentation, taking most of the mystery out of this part of the job. I will install new hoses and aluminum t-stat housing before putting the manifold back on.

Onward to pulling the timing chain cover...

 

I have pulled bank one cylinder head and was surprised to not see gaping bent valves and damaged pistons. Carbon, but otherwise normal looking. I am taking them to the Engine Lab in Tampa for restoration - $320 a side plus parts.

Bank two is not coming quietly. I broke a socket and in the process wrung the head round on the very last bolt. Spent the whole day with extractors and impact driver, but it will not budge. All the head bolts were unbelievable tight. Needed breaker bar with extension to get them loose. I will drill the head off this last bolt and hopefully the stump will easy out.

Despite the effort required, I was having a great time until that last damn bolt.

 

The breather hose is best replaced. Should be about $20 at the dealer.

Good luck with the second head!

Dan

 

It always seems to be that last bolt that causes 90% of the trouble. It sounds like you are doing a complete head rebuild, which is a good idea while you're in there. I did this with my Land Rover - cheaper of course - but I did replace the head bolts. They are torque-to-yield, whatever that means, but they do stretch. They say they can be reused once, but if you're already $1000 in, what's another $100 for head bolts ?

 

Today was a really good day because I got the bank 2 head off. Long story short, I tried to drill the seized bolt head off, but couldn't get a good straight shot and got off center. I found a 3/4" drill grinder bit that did a good job of wearing down the head, although it took 3 or 4 bits to get to the seat of it. There is a pic here of the bolt remains and the used grinder bits. The thing that looks like a thin washer is actually the bolt head! The blue tape was to keep from grinding down the aluminum head along with the bolt!

http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/59922...Bank2?h=ddbd26

You can also see two piston shots, one normal and the other with an impact mark from hitting a valve when the chain broke. I will let the machinist tell me if the piston is still OK to run with, but it is the only one that has an impact mark of any kind. I take the heads to Engine Lab next week and can't wait to get them back after restoration.