I have a 2002 X308 XJ8 Sport "handed" to me by a family's friend and I need some suggestions to get it running for a few days until I can get it to a local Jaguar indy shop. I saw the car for the first time today. The car has been sitting in the garage for about 7 years all dusty on outside. I had to jump the car battery to get the engine running and gave air in all tires. I was able to drive the car in reverse for 20 feet and then drive forward back into the garage; the only driving I did. The dashboard light shows that the coolant is very low, also need some motor oil, engine area fumed a little (no surprise since it sat there) and the major concern is likely the transmission I've been told "does not work" as the car died after it was driven (this maybe due to the engine auto-shut off due to overheating due to lack of motor oil and coolant?). My 3 questions after I read the online manual provided here just to be sure as I can pick up these parts at the local Autozone: 1) does the engine take 5W-30, can I use the Prestone orange coolant(or need something specific), and can I use the new Duralast H8-DLG battery? Should I just use a battery charger to charge the dead battery before I buy a new battery? I want to spend as little as possible until I can get it to my indy shop for them to do a full inspection and tell me what the imminent repairs are? If the transmission is really defective, which I read will cost $4 to $6k, I might want to just resell it or still have it repair and keep it. The seller want it gone asap. I was told it was maintained well, but just neglected and it can either be cheap simple maintenance or a costly transmission replacement. Like my 18 year old German car, if I can keep this Jaguar, I will monitor it's health and be alert to have it serviced where\when appropriate.

 

There is a history on this model of the coolant level sensor connector going bad so you would have to manually check the coolant level

there is a drain **** on the radiator right side

 

yes, 5W-30, yes, the reddish coolant. If something is wrong with the transmission, you should not risk driving it. Same with the engine. So if you are not confident enough that driving it (even for a short distance) would not cause any harm, just don't drive it. In that case you got 2 options: Do all the required repairs yourself where the Jag is, or have it brought on a trailer to your garage. Also: If there is not ATF in the transmission, towing is also no option... - but trailer and tilt-tray are options.

 

It is pretty easy to check the coolant level and CHECK FOR LEAKS.
The battery very likely will not take a charge after 7 plus years and
rather than spend $100 for a Jaguar size one, you could use one of
your current batteries to test with. You could check the tranny fluid
level, and it has been my experience that many car owners get bad
advice and park their cars, without accurate repair information. It very
well could be major, but there is a chance it is minor and your good
fortune to discover.

 

My advise was based upon that I had the feeling that you think that the car has several issues of unknown nature.
I would take care of that myself - but that is just me...

Yes, obviously a 7 year old battery is dead for good and just take one, which you have a t hand currently.
Checking tranny fluid is a good call, but make sure you know how: With car raised level and the level-check bolt loosened (it is quite difficult to loosen), have the engine running, remove the bolt and see if something drips out. If not, buy some if the suitable ATF (not multi vehicle).

If you have a 5hp24 transmission, you'll find the ATF info in this thread of mine:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-flush-265900/

 

I've been printing out sections of the handbook for my quick DYI all weekend. Is it ok to use a trickle battery charger on the dead old Bosch H8-900G for overnight charging? I've done this with another car brand. I do not have a spare battery lying around. I just want to see if I can start the car without my jump starter box so I can drive it to the indy shop for full inspection. Thanks..

 

You can always try, but I cannot see how a 7 year old unused battery can be anything BUT dead as a Dodo!
And I think Randy meant the same as I did: Use the battery of the car that you are driving currently.

 

If you have questions about the state of the transmission, you should not try to drive to the repair shop as you're just increasing the risks or ruining what might not yet be ruined.

 

Caution on the battery is you can hook it up backwards.this will cause the rest of the car issues

I place a tape on the battery with a arrow pointing fwd as the positive post goes fwd.

A shop will put it in backwards for you so tell them and mark it

A 2002 ZF5HP24 transmission should be out of the range of a defective pressure regulator valve body bore that was factory corrected in the year 99 ( I can be incorrect on the effectivity )

This is called the" Transgo Mod " after the aftermarket company that has a solution involving shattering the " A " drum.if driven after the pressure regulator bypassing leak failure.

 

Hi Parker 7. Thank you for the engine error code map. These light up on my dashboard; yellow check engine light, yellow ABS light, messages that say No Trac available, No ABS available. The ODBC scan says
P0171 system too lean Bank 1 . This could be the engine misfire, it shudders at 3k rpm like the error code mapping described, so I keep the speed low driving 15-40mph around the neighborhood.
P0174 system too lean Bank 2, " " "
P1260 Security input. The central door locking and opening does not work. I have to use the key to unlock.
C1315 .. My scanner said the definition for this is not available. I did a google and it sent me to a "bad" website; may not be safe to visit. It could be about the MAF or solenoid or exhaust fume leaking, defective catalytic converter?
C3100... same as above...

I think fixing the engine's electrical may solve the ABS and Traction warning lights too. The car has 142k miles on it and was driven by the widow until it entire broke down. I am not a mechanic or have lift equipment for DYI repairing. The engine(and drivetrain) if economical for my local small shop to fix and if the transmission is currently ok, it maybe enough to pass emission. Afterwards right away, it needs new shocks and springs suspension, and 4 new tires, then this car could be drivable for daily purposes and on the freeway. But it will still has lots of small non-drivetrain things wrong with it that may require up to 1 year to fix as you would a project car. The car has little market value (<$1k) and if the initial engine repair cost is expensive, it maybe worth it to sell it junkyard or someone for cheap.. I like to make a decision in the next 10 days(after the shop do a full inspection). Thoughts, is it worth saving?

 

This is the first I’ve read of a factory upgrade for the ZF5HP24. Upon getting my ‘03 VDP a couple years back, after reading here about the problems with the units without any reference to year, the first thing I did was ask a tranny shop to change the ATF on this 30,000-mile car and upgrade the pressure regulator device. It would appear I overreacted based on incomplete information.

 

I dont think I have seen a "C"1315 code on an X308
A p1315 means it has a persistent misfire,

Faulty / worn-out spark plugs
Clogged fuel injectors
Faulty ignition coil
Faulty fuel injectors
Cylinder compression low
Low fuel pressure
Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

C3100. could be an engine oil temperature sensor.

The REAL questions is...Is it worth it to YOU?
These cars when maintained and serviced properly provide a never-ending source of pride and admiration,
On the other hand, there are those examples that have NOT been maintained well and looked after by previous
owners that can be a constant and nagging pain as well as irritating expense when you can not perform the
repair/service yourself. Some nagging codes are easily fixed and some are not so easy. So. in the long run,
you must assure yourself as one who will pursue the various fixes or wash your hands of it.

 

Hi Everyone:
Up to now; I've also replaced and put in, in order to also address the “system too lean” finding from the ODBC scanner:
battery,
all 8 new NGK sparkplugs,
replaced the air filter and cleaned out all the components(MAF) that attached to the box and put tape all around the joints where air can leak in,
put in fuel injection cleaner with gasoline, top up with new coolant, power steering fluid and 5w-30,
and checked and saw all good fuses in the 5 compartments throughout the car (I still replaced the ABS and ODBC fuses).

The engine compartment and interior got a good cleaning. While replacing the sparkplugs, I saw two ignition coils with some oil coating (on the left banks) see pic as it may need a new gasket?, also saw faint coolant misting in front of the engine after a short drive.. I think the engine and transmission are likely ok as I drove it 7+ times now. I was able to drive it past 4-5k rpm and going 70mph for a short distance. However every time I cold start the engine, it shutters for a while until it gets warm and the engine still goes on limp mode around 3k rpm some times. But my main problems as indicated by dashboard lights still have not gone away: the yellow check engine light, yellow ABS(test says C1095: hydraulic pump motor-circuit failure which I saw a youtube video saying it may need soldering), and the yellow and red light in center dashboard. I read up on the manuals as what these are.

Also do anyone know what 1) that device is next to the ODBC connector that has a red light which I put black tape around, is it a mod or radar detector, maybe while it got installed, they might have re-routed the ODBC wires which caused the non-linking in the ODBC scanner), and 2) there's a electrical connector next to the battery that I don't know if it should be connected to anything. Any other quick ideas? I think I've done all I can now and don't intend to or have tools to lift the car to do more work. My immediate goal is to pass emission(which I know will fail due to check engine light) and then take the car to the indy shop to get that fix and get the car to normal operating condition, if I’m keeping the car. I’m wondering how it drives if the engine is normal. Sorry for the long read and thanks.

 

Your observance of the OBD 2 port has meaning

Below is wrong information on wrong engine but pretty similar situation as an X300.




The port has 2 power pins X and Y ; this will be pin 16 and 9 in the OBD 2 port

Pin 16 ( X ) is hot at all times ( fuse # 6 / 5 amp trunk fuse box ) and pin 9 ( Y ) is fuse # 10 /5 amp which the fuse is powered by closing the relay in the corner of the right heelboard fuse box

also called ignition positive relay as the most important ignition positive relay is in the right engine bay fuse box ( powers the engine ECU )

This fuze # 10 is shared by both fuel pump relay control halves as a ground is provided to close the fuel pump relays

Pic coming

Fuel pump 1 relay is point 6 double hash circle

Fuel pump 2 relayis point 7 double hash circle

Researching

In all X300 fuse boxes fuse 1 - 9 are hot at all times directly wired to the battery bypassing inside the fuse box the king relay in the corner

fuse 10 ,12 , 14 ,and 16 relies on the relay to close by the ignition switch

so 11 , 13 , 15 are directly wired to the battery

The data bus protocal numbesr is most likely incorrect in the pic below

 

P0171/P0174 - many threads on what to do (normally an air leak).

Use fuel trims...

Unlikely to stop leaks.

 

Your OBD 2 port wiring colors are on page 143

X300 01/E COVER (jagrepair.com)

If the wire is pinned into the connector block leave it alone

Your color code is on page 17

The extra connector by the battery is probably a shipping connector not used

How your fuel pump relays relates to the OBD 2 port is .....................

Your both fuel pump relays control power is point 33 double hash circle on page 45 inside the trunk fuse box and page 61 top left corner

Which is fuse # 16 / 10 amp jeft heelboard fuse box

This fuse is shared by too many things like point 17 double hash circle on page 143 as power pin 9 in the OBD 2 port

In order that fuse # 16 is powered it must have the ignition positive relay close in the left heelboard fuse box

This relay is controled by the ignition switch and to test the relay command have the key in run before starting and remove the relay , it should click in your fingertips back open , reinstall and it should click back closed

You can swap it with the one in the right heelboard fuse box

My opinion is to get a new relay to square up this important power point for the fuel pump relays control