I've searched to no avail, but I need to remove my shelf so I can remove my broken/noisy 3rd brake light. Of course my year doesn't have a disconnect plug above the shelf it's soldered, so under I must go.

 

None of them do, you have to cut the wire and solder in a disconnect.

 

The Technical Service PDF shows a plug & the new OEM one I'm looking to buy clearly has one, go figure.

 

Oh wow, that is new to me (I did mine about 6 yrs ago), ...maybe its an upgrade?, ...very similar connector I put in....thanks

 

Yes another one of Jag's mysteries lol. I looked over the PDF late last night got excited that it was a quick fix to remove & ran out @ 2 am in boxers & slides to see, disappointment reigned supreme lol.

I was looking @ those high mount LED strips, I saw a member here used a Bentley version but didn't specify which Bentley, I messaged him so maybe I'll get a lead.

They have new Oatmeal/AGD units on eBay & I do have ample SDZ seat colorant left over so I could easily paint it.

 

Was that Sean that used the Bentley one? ...I remember that. The 2001-06 Lexus LS430 3rd light, and others I'm sure, sits on the deck and would cover that area.

 

Roger that Sean.

 

Give a shout if you still need to remove the parcel shelf, been there, done that ... more than once
And both my 1998 XJ and 2003 XK had plugs, the XK one direct on the lamp holder.

 

Will do, but it's a Jag theme of having contrasting official info & a hodge podge of methods for the same item. Like the overhead console I sent the OEM diagram w/ the parts I needed highlighted & #'s to 3 reputable vendors & they each wanted to send me a different part from the same diagram lol. Right now it's being held w/ the damn engine trim/bulkhead fastener & receptacle lol go figure.

 

I'm going to step out of the truck..as the beep, beep, beep is happening. ..and jump behind it....because I was perusing my process when I redid mine and remembered that the other 2 cars I tried to get the 3rd light out of, and mine, I thought had short direct wiring. Because when I tried to remove them the wire came out the same short distance (before disintegrating), no matter how I fiddled with them. Now I wonder if it was the plug stuck under the deck is all and I am totally wrong on my interpretation? ...which seems most likely from the pics.

 

Man on my initial attempt to change bulbs & cover(before the disintegration) I had to jump from back window perch to driver's seat several X due to bulbs not relighting after replacement etc. Insult to injury after finally getting all bulbs to work the damn light fixture(charcoal housing) follows suit & shatters lol. My assistant/son was out gallivanting so I was flying solo, it took an already awkward task to uber annoying status lol.

I'm going OEM replacement , not sure I like those LED bars aesthetic wise.

 

Here's a photo I took about a month ago after fuel pump replacement via an access hole I cut in the parcel panel. (The panel over the hole is closed and resealed in the photo). The plug for the light is visible. The parcel shelf was removed via the following steps:

1.Remove the seat bottom (screws along the bottom/forward edge).
2. Remove seat back. Screws along the bottom edge. The top edge lifts up and over the shoulder harness retractors. Before attempting to lift the seat back, release the lower fastening tabs on the shoulder straps, as the straps must be fed through the slots at the top of the seat back to remove it from the vehicle.
3. With the seat back out of the way, removed the small child seat brackets (if so equipped), and the seat belt retractor bracket to your right (as you face the seat back). This provides space to angle the parcel top finisher as you remove it.
4.The top finisher of the parcel shelf can now be lifted at the forward edge, and pulled toward you at your right hand side (left side of the car) and angled through the space provided when you removed the shoulder harness retractor.
5. The lower pad/insulator layer comes out next, and you will see what is depicted in the photo.

Note that removal of the seat back is best done by two people as it is wedged into the opening very tightly.

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/145246079@N06/, on Flickr

 

Thanks !
Wow remove the entire rear bench to get to a light, go figure lol. I think we're going to go the splice & tuck route.

 

Ok ordered the new oatmeal OEM unit & am going to do the seat removal method, if it's worth doing, do it right lol.

Going to go ahead & put red LEDs back there so hopefully I won't be handling it again any time soon. Also heavily debating switching out the entire rear lighting for CanBUS error free lights for uniform shine.

 

Hi 64etype.........I am very interested in your effort to remove back seat on XJ8, and rear shelf as I also want to cut into the potion above the fuel tank to expose the top , so I can replace the fuel pump without dropping tank. At this point I am trying to remove the rear seat( very tight as you mentioned.) . Do you have any other info as to the steps taken to remove shelf and get to the fuel pump to replace..?? Thx in advance...Chris Elley ( chriselley@hotmail.com)

 

You'll have to cut the deck panel, just pull it out in the trunk, its not that hard.

 

This is exactly what the previous owner did to my 03’ SV8 and he effed up the fuel lines. Not fun trying to correct those damaged lines. You must disconnect both of the fuel lines on the bottom of the tank first.

 

I would hope the instructions would be read. ...in case your wondering, this came from the "How To" at the top of this forum. I know, ..who woulda thunk...right?

This is an older tutorial, I myself did not find it necessary to remove the driveshaft. One thing I do recommend, is to spray the fuel line releases with pressurized air (compressed can or a compressor) to get the dirt out to make it easier for the A/C clip release tool to work. https://www.mediafire.com/file/377tq...._1.3.pdf/file

This is for an XK8, but its very similar and doesn't have the annoyance of removing the drive shaft as in the PDF link.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Remove the driveshaft?? I’ve never had to do that on any Jag to gain access to the fuel lines. I’ve had to either remove the parking brake linkage just in front of the diff and/or lower the rear subframe about an inch if the lines were being that stubborn releasing from the tank. Perhaps my arms are skinny enough just to maneuver through all that stuff and put the plastic release tool up in there. I definitely agree with blowing compressed air up inside the fuel line connections.

 

Hey, I didn't do the write up...lol...that's why I specified that and included the XK8 process. I thought it very unnecessary myself.