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Rear shock replacement - Admitting I can be dense may help someone the future
Replaced rear shocks using no-spring compressor procedure. Very proud of myself. Clunking improved, but did not end.
The two pads that look like a wedding cake in the pic below separate. Duh! I guess being in the box for some time caused them to adhere together. I though they were one pad. So both got installed under the metal hat. Fixed yesterday. In my defense, I had to peel them apart. I'm getting faster at it. About 90 minutes a side.
I don't expect any stones to be thrown as this is a good natured site. Can't say the same about rennlist for Porsche. Sometimes it gets to almost attacking the sexual proclivities of a poster's mother. Anyway, friendly comments welcome but must include the dumbest thing you done on you Jag or other car.
ALWAYS replace the spring upper isolator when you have it all apart.
Agreed, it's essential that you replace the upper "donut" bushing, (#4 in the above diagram) it is usually responsible for approx 1" of loss of rear ride height.
Also, apply lithium grease to the contact surfaces of all the yellow foam bushings, especially the large donut spring isolator, or you may get dry squeaks from the suspension, either immediately after reinstallation, or later on.
The forum post word-limit is insufficient to accommodate all the dumb things I've done!
The forum post word-limit is insufficient to accommodate all the dumb things I've done.
Only one was requested.
Just like the pads on my front shock mounts, the smaller donuts on the rear had disappeared into dust. So there was nothing on the top of the metal hat when I first removed them. The big donuts were still there but highly degraded.
I use Silicone Brake grease to lube the foam parts. I don't know if petroleum will attack the foam but..........
Thanks for mentioning silicone grease, Bob. There's always a risk that a petroleum-based grease may cause rubber or plastic parts to degrade, so lithium or silicone grease are the safest options.