Replacing transmission cooling lines
This is proving to be much more of a job than I was planning. The return line that goes into the top of the transmission is NOT easy to route back in place. I got it out by manhandling it a little, but to get the new one in, I lowered the steering rack and removed the left hand catalytic converter, both of which made the job easier. I have it in place, but not hooked up yet because that job in itself is going to be tricky. I’m still working on it.
I tested the flow rate of the pump that moves fluid through the cooler in the radiator, but I have no way to know what the “normal” flow rate is. I ran the car for about 10 seconds at most, and it pumped about 1.5 pints into the milk jug I used. It SEEMED about right to me, but again, I have no idea what that means. It was pumping fluid with enthusiasm, but it wasn’t pumping so hard as to blow the milk jug out of my hand, if that makes sense.
After I pulled the return line out, I reconnected it to the cooler and let it hang straight down so I could catch the fluid in the milk jug. When I originally disconnected the line from the cooler, and while it was still hooked up at the tranny, I blew through it and it seemed clear.
Does anyone know if the roughly 1.5 pints of fluid seems about right for about 10 seconds of pumping? Thanks again.
I tested the flow rate of the pump that moves fluid through the cooler in the radiator, but I have no way to know what the “normal” flow rate is. I ran the car for about 10 seconds at most, and it pumped about 1.5 pints into the milk jug I used. It SEEMED about right to me, but again, I have no idea what that means. It was pumping fluid with enthusiasm, but it wasn’t pumping so hard as to blow the milk jug out of my hand, if that makes sense.
After I pulled the return line out, I reconnected it to the cooler and let it hang straight down so I could catch the fluid in the milk jug. When I originally disconnected the line from the cooler, and while it was still hooked up at the tranny, I blew through it and it seemed clear.
Does anyone know if the roughly 1.5 pints of fluid seems about right for about 10 seconds of pumping? Thanks again.
Two things.
1) I know exactly what your going through with trying to refit the banjo fitting on top of the transmission. It’s been about 2 1/2 years since I changed mine out when I was doing the rear main seal but, I do remember using a very large pry bar to get the fitting lined up perfectly while I had an assistant use a telescopic pen magnet to fish the bolt down there and use a long extension with socket at the end and gently turn it to see if the bolt would screw in without stripping out the threads. I know, it’s always something.
One other thing related to this is, use a thick grease on the bottom washer and sit it on top of the transmission fitting before trying to fit the bolt thru the banjo fitting. Use more grease for the top washer to keep it in place on the banjo bolt. It’ll save a lot of headache doing this job.
2) I cannot comment on the volume of fluid coming out but, I do plan on flushing out my transmission on my newly acquired 03’ Super V8 within the next few weeks. I know that doesn’t help now but I’ll take a fluid measurement when I do and report back.
Hopefully someone else can comment on the amount of fluid that you received in 10 seconds as being adequate or not.
If Highhorse is willing to drive us the 1600+ miles to get out there, I’ll give you a hand. 😁
1) I know exactly what your going through with trying to refit the banjo fitting on top of the transmission. It’s been about 2 1/2 years since I changed mine out when I was doing the rear main seal but, I do remember using a very large pry bar to get the fitting lined up perfectly while I had an assistant use a telescopic pen magnet to fish the bolt down there and use a long extension with socket at the end and gently turn it to see if the bolt would screw in without stripping out the threads. I know, it’s always something.
One other thing related to this is, use a thick grease on the bottom washer and sit it on top of the transmission fitting before trying to fit the bolt thru the banjo fitting. Use more grease for the top washer to keep it in place on the banjo bolt. It’ll save a lot of headache doing this job.
2) I cannot comment on the volume of fluid coming out but, I do plan on flushing out my transmission on my newly acquired 03’ Super V8 within the next few weeks. I know that doesn’t help now but I’ll take a fluid measurement when I do and report back.
Hopefully someone else can comment on the amount of fluid that you received in 10 seconds as being adequate or not.
If Highhorse is willing to drive us the 1600+ miles to get out there, I’ll give you a hand. 😁
Last edited by Addicted2boost; Aug 29, 2020 at 07:33 PM.
I did get the new banjo bolts installed. Having the catalytic converter and steering rack out of the way helped a ton. I was able to reach up on top of the transmission, and I could even hold the dowty washer on the banjo bolt with my thumb while I located the hole. For whatever reason, the angle was perfect and the banjo bolt threaded in easy - first try! I wouldn’t have believed it, but there it was.

One question on reassembly: directly below the header tank, looking straight down to the studs on the catalytic converter.....is my car the only one that had aluminum heat shields fixed in place over those bolts? The workshop manual made NO MENTION of those heat shields when I looked up how to remove the catalytic converter, but that was by far the toughest part of the job! Kinda wondering if I even need to try to put them back in place.
Does anyone else’s XJR have the heat shields? You can tell if you look below the header tank. You’d expect to see nuts holding the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold, but you can’t see them because of the aforementioned heat shield.
Edited to add: should I replace the O2 sensors on that side, since I have the catalytic converter out? They are working fine, but it would be MUCH easier to replace them now. Do they go bad very often? Thanks again.
Last edited by aquifer; Aug 30, 2020 at 01:24 PM.
Every X308 XJ8/R had heat shields from the factory under the expansion tank. It’s to help protect the plastic tank from all the heat.
As far as the 02 sensor is concerned, that’s your call. I’d get a Denso 02 and replace the upstream one while it’s out. I’d gently put it in a bench mounted vise, cut the connector off and use a 7/8 or 22mm closed end wrench on it to break it free.
As far as the 02 sensor is concerned, that’s your call. I’d get a Denso 02 and replace the upstream one while it’s out. I’d gently put it in a bench mounted vise, cut the connector off and use a 7/8 or 22mm closed end wrench on it to break it free.
For those heat shields, here's my O2 write up that includes removal of the cats and shields... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-195018/
I'd have to work on riding out that way...I just drove 1100 miles to NJ for a job no one else would do...but, yeah, it pays.
I'd have to work on riding out that way...I just drove 1100 miles to NJ for a job no one else would do...but, yeah, it pays.
Very helpful, thank you both. Lots of good advice in your linked thread, Highhorse. I will run a tap and die over the threads/nuts so everything goes together easily, and I like the string idea to fish the wires up.
Although they look clean and tidy, I think I better replace both of the O2 sensors while I have it disassembled. I need some advice though: partsgeek says that Denso is the OEM manufacturer, and I definitely want OEM if at all possible, unless you advise differently. There are several to choose from. Some are heated, some aren't. It appears that the upstream one I need is heated, but I don't know for sure. Scroll way down to see the Denso's. Which ones do I need?
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/19...en_sensor.html
I looked up the part number on the Jaguar classic parts website, and I got the linked options. Partsgeek isn't necessarily who I'll order from, but I'd like your advice as to which ones I need so I don't get the wrong parts.
Thanks again. Very helpful stuff here.
Although they look clean and tidy, I think I better replace both of the O2 sensors while I have it disassembled. I need some advice though: partsgeek says that Denso is the OEM manufacturer, and I definitely want OEM if at all possible, unless you advise differently. There are several to choose from. Some are heated, some aren't. It appears that the upstream one I need is heated, but I don't know for sure. Scroll way down to see the Denso's. Which ones do I need?
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/19...en_sensor.html
I looked up the part number on the Jaguar classic parts website, and I got the linked options. Partsgeek isn't necessarily who I'll order from, but I'd like your advice as to which ones I need so I don't get the wrong parts.
Thanks again. Very helpful stuff here.
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For those heat shields, here's my O2 write up that includes removal of the cats and shields... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-195018/
I'd have to work on riding out that way...I just drove 1100 miles to NJ for a job no one else would do...but, yeah, it pays.
I'd have to work on riding out that way...I just drove 1100 miles to NJ for a job no one else would do...but, yeah, it pays.
I was planning to get it all back together this morning, which I would have, but I’m stuck hard on this small heat shield. I haven’t figured it out yet. Any advice?? Thanks
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