Hi all, as the title says I’m looking for timing chain parts(Chains, tensioners, Guides, etc).

Before anything, iirc, motorcarman had told me there aren’t any kits that he has found, that provide the correct guides for the earlier Aj26 engine. If anyone has found one please let me know.

When I’m going to buy these parts should I buy quality and spend the extra money or is it fine to go cheaper with a site like RockAuto?

1998 Jaguar XJR
-Anthony

 

It’s in the UK but does this look right
https://www.britishparts.co.uk/class...n-kit-bpk374-2

 

Yea that seems to be it, I just don’t need all the gaskets as those came with my Head Gasket Set.
I was able to find a kit for $513 on parts geek, by EuroSpare, Part #W0133-1895189. Seems to have exactly what’s in that kit except the gaskets and seals.

 

Why are you souring on timing parts?
Kits and individual parts are easy to combine into a usable list.

 

So, there are no more OEM kits made for these ladies, they're in their mid-20's to 30. These are all knockoffs (many produced by the same maker with a different name) and many of these places charge out the wahzoo for the exact same kit you get elsewhere for under $200. The quality is no different, they may add a front seal or something someone else doesn't have to make it look like it's different. Saw one with a water pump, but if you need a water pump, that may be a deal for you. They charge out the *** because if there's a problem, they replace the bad part(s) and they still have made money. Review the manufacturers and check the display photos for similarities, ...that doesn't mean they couldn't have been C&P'd but still review them. Supposedly, and I haven't seen a confirmation on this, the Lincoln LS from the same time period is the same kit. I recall mine said that when I ordered them about 12 yrs ago.

None of these sellers make these kits, they just sell them...

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RJ1047


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...be92203ec92e0b

 

Check the listing it's the late model narrow guides
you Don't need to change the chains unless it's stretched and making ticking sound
Original ford guide is 20$ on ebay
get the tensioners from rock and you need front crankshaft seal and some gaskets and get permatex oil resistance gasket maker you might need some here n there

 

Ah ok thank you, I didn’t realize they were the later model. I’ll check for the one on eBay.

I do have a ticking sound but I don’t think it’s the timing chain it sounds like it’s coming from under the S/C

 

Future proofing since I’m already going to replace head gaskets. I’m trying to get as much done while I’ve got it apart.

Yea I’ve noticed that they all seem the same, but have crazy price differences. That’s why I had the question of quality but the cheaper the better.
That you for the links.

Do you think it would be worth while to replace the sprockets?

 

This is my DIY thread for swapping the chain, etc., on my 1998 X308 3.2L WITHOUT VVT. Maybe that helps. I bought a kit on ebay:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-swap-266724/

 

That is something you would have to put an eye on to determine, but if you don't have much if any noise I highly doubt the sprockets need replacement. Be sure to check your water pump since you're going to be right there and the SC is off. Be sure to replace all the hosing, especially the valley hoses. A timing chain job is about 14 hrs with hoses and depending on your speed to wanting to get it done and/or how careful you are. Peter's write is pretty good, there's an old one from Blackonyx in the How To section also. I used the zip tie method to lock the chain in place to prevent any link jump on the cams.

You being in FL (what part btw) I'd drop off my cam lock kit, but I'm heading out for a trip up the East coast for work and the holidays with family. If you don't plan on doing it until after Christmas, then maybe we can arrange something.

 

Back when the 98’ XJR had 232k miles 10 years ago (now 284k) on it, (original engine also) I was replacing the head gaskets, I reused the sprockets but, I may have flipped them over so the wear was on the ‘not so worn side’ if that makes any sense. Still runs like a champ. Don’t waste your money on new sprockets unless that was a very neglected engine service wise.

 

Yes, flipping the sprockets makes sense - I did not think of that before.

 

Thank you, that’s a very helpful thread, I’ll definitely use it when I start the project.

Yea I was thinking of doing it after the New Years. If you could that would be perfect.
Im in LEE COUNTY but I’m willing to go take a trip wherever is needed.

Never thought of doing that. When I get around to it I’ll keep that in mind, thank you.

 

I was just down in Cape Coral last week.

 

What a coincidence, that’s where In Lee county I live.
But as I said I’m willing to take the trip. I’m in Tampa and Miami pretty often if you are in either of those directions.

 

I'm all over, I was in Clewiston Mon, I'm in Savannah now, I'll be in Augusta Fri...then up into the Northeast for some work and holiday with family.

 

Finally getting around to replacing upper and lower tensioners and guides on the wife's low mileage '99 XJR (it took an oil leak in the no.6 plug well causing a misfire to motivate me). I've sourced what are represented as OEM parts (including the wider guides for the earlier engines) online from a place called AutohausAZ. I'm also replacing plugs, water pump, serpentine belt and thermostat while I'm in there (the car already has a metal thermostat housing). In addition to the crank seal on the timing cover, should I replace the front seal on the crank? The manual shows special tools for removal and installation which I'll order from the JCNA loan program along with the crank locking tool and damper remover. Hopefully this isn't a normal source of leakage and I can leave well enough alone. Also, does removing the bonnet and fans allow enough access and clearance, or does it help to pull the radiator also? Appreciate any thoughts from folks who have been there.

 

I just remove the fan assy and prop the bonnet open VERTICAL using a special tool I made from faulty lift supports.
I cut two lift support rods and welded them together for a LONG rod to hold the bonnet open straight up.

Installs on the ball sockets and saves me having a 'prop-rod' to hold the bonnet open.
Prop rod can fall and the bonnet knock me in the head.

I also place a sheet metal guard against the radiator to prevent damage to the core while working. Plywood would work but takes up a little more room?

In addition to the crank seal on the timing cover, should I replace the front seal on the crank?
The front seal on the cover is the crank seal.
Remember to replace the thin 'O'ring in the damper if that is what you mean?

Caution: Do not use JD 216, crankshaft setting peg, to hold the crankshaft
when tightening or loosening the center bolt of the crankshaft.

 

Thanks - thought there was a crank seal at the block as well.