Hi all,
slightly mixed messages on the best way to remove the crank dampner. I have a battery powered impact that should get the bolt out no problem, but the puller is the question. Do the jag "universal" puller kits work on the supercharged cars https://www.ebay.com/itm/35414788765...orefresh=true? Any other better options?


thanks

 

I just use a Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set.

https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-t...MaAhzVEALw_wcB


Just bodge something together and get it off.

 

Use the highest grade bolts you can get. ACE hardware has a pretty good selection of high strength bolts in my neck of the woods anyways.

 

i used some random tensioner or suspension bolts with the autozone puller


cardboard on the radiator in case it goes flying

 

I inherited one from my dad. Looks similar to the one Motorcarman posted.
I have never had an issue with it.

 

I have a sheet of 20 gauge steel that I drop in place of the fan assy when I pull a damper in-situ.

Once I did have a bolt head 'fly-off' pulling a damper off an AJ28 engine on the shop floor.
Luckily the damper was forward enough to 'smack' with a hammer to dislodge the split cone.

 

The pulley holding tool (to later tighten the pulley bolt) shown on Ebay will not fit the deeper SC pulley. You will need to buy the extended version; example:

 

Helpful, thanks

Any idea on where to source?

 

I really like the look of this....I've used lots of washers with one side ground to get the extra depth - it worked but not ideal. Any links for this kit?

*EDIT*

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361750096685

Just purchased - thanks for the heads up M. Stojanovic!

 

The dampner is being difficult. One of the 8mm bolt holes stripped, but im giving it another go.

When people say they hit it with a hammer, in what way? Outwards on the lip? On the face, perpendicular to travel? Thanks

 

Pull the pulley outwards only that much that it cracks loose. No more. Then hit it back inwards to the engine. Then you may be able to remove the collar that prevents the pulley moving outwards. This is the theory. In practise it will vary.

 

i have the crank pulley up graded by powder house UK

 

I only ever installed one of those on a customer car.
Since I have two XKRs, I should get at least one?

 

You know you want to Bob!
Go for it!

 

Im on to the reinstallation of the crank bolt, but never got around to getting the locking tool.

Im wondering if i can just impact the sucker on there and if not, whats the best way to wedge a prybar into the torque converter mounting area?

Sorry to keep bothering you all with this project but i appreciate the help

 

DO NOT use the crank timing lock tool to hold the crankshaft!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You will likely 'oval' the timing segment and destroy the torque converter drive plate.

I wrote a story years ago about this very situation when I worked at the dealer.

 

Right, I'm certainly not going to do that.

I have rigged up something that replicates the factory tool, but does require the use of a prybar and doing it singlehandly isn't fun. I have about 210lbs on it now, might need to phone a friend for the rest.