On Saturday, I completed the tensioner job, the passenger side was in the worst condition, the top part of it completely broke off. Only found one small piece of it though. Could not find the rest, probably down in the timing chain cover, because it was nowhere by the cams. The crack was half way up the side of the tensioner body.

The driver side had the same length crack on it too.

I didn't have all the issues taken of the valve covers on the drivers side. The dipstick tube came up with ease, just wiggle it from side to side and it lifted over the bolt. Didn't have to disconnect any of the coolant lines by the overflow tank.

It is not a hard job, very easy, the instructions was on point and everything went with ease. Took about 30 mins on each side. It went so fast, at one point I was scared to start the car.

The engine is SO quiet, no leftover timing chain noise whatsoever. I noticed that one of the fuel injectors is ticking louder than the rest and the Super Charger bearings are in need of a replacement. I should have order new valve covers gaskets along with the tensionser, but those are on order now.

Oh, while in there, I saw the engine is in need of a serious flush. Will drop the engine pan and do some house cleaning.

But all and all, very easy, only need some simple tools, if you work on your own cars, you already have them.

Will post pictures of the tensioners tonight when I get home.

SGB

 

Hey SGB,

Congrats on making it sound easy... just what I wanted to hear.

Can you post those pix? Also, are you able to post the directions you mentioned in your post? I need to do the same job asap. My idle is horrible and none of the tests performed helped the cylinder 7 & 8 misfires.

Thank you!

SirJag

 

Most of the broken pieces will be in the pan, but a few will be in the oil pickup screen, so take that off and clean it.
RJ_______________
95 XJ6 120K mi
97 XK8 86K mi

 

I didn't make it simple the directions did, the writeup w/pictures is on the forum.
I just followed the direction and all went well.

During the course of moving to my new house, I didn't have time to take pictures of my tensioner and they was tossed in the garbage.

Again, the complete writeup is on the forum, follow the direction and all will be good.

Some ssy the dipstick bolt/nut is hard to get to, I didn't find that a problem.

 

Hi I'm kinda new to the forum how can I find the link to the directions on how to do this on the forum? Thanks

 

The tensioner information is displayed in alphabetical order in the FAQ sticky above. We try to encourage the use of that resource but once again here is the full monty:

Cam Chain Tensioners
Help - sudden fail - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
I just changed my own timing chain tensioners........ - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
Ford tensioners for Jaguar??? - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
Tensioners, when are they a "must replace" item? - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum


Cam Chain Tensioners Lincoln LS Part Numbers
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...34/#post330655

JTIS .pdf files on Chains/Tensioners replacement
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...prokets-54603/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...xtracts-66696/

Cam locking tool dimensions
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page

Cam Chain Tensioners Cam Removal Method
2nd tensions DIY instruction "HOW TO" - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Here is another DIY on the 2ndary Tensioners replacement - this PDF file was created by jag-lovers member D. Jenson and is attached to the S_Type section of the forum (in a posting by forum member tbird6):

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...eplacement-pdf

The PDF file has a lot of nice photos and instructions.

Jim Lombardi

 

Awesome thanks guys

 

so that means the tensioners are the same as a ford??? its a ford engine in there? this seems to amaze me and they go for way cheaper!

 

Here is what I found on the Internet website:
THE JAGUAR AJ-V8 ENGINE / AJ6 Engineering

Sample of text:

"Let us start by dispelling the belief still held by a few people that Jaguar just adapted a Ford designed V8 to create their new power unit. The truth is actually the reverse. Jaguar designed the engine in its entirety, it is manufactured in the UK, and a simplified variant is shipped over to the US where Lincoln install it in their LS model! "

Says simplified variant of the Jaguar Engineered V8 engine that went into Lincoln LS model.

Here is another website that talks about 3.9L engine developed by Jaguar UK AJV8:

The 3.9L Ford engines were first introduced in America as Lincoln engines, sold between 2002 to 2005 in selected Lincoln LS models and Ford vehicles. Manufactured by Jaguar and called the AJ-V8, it is a DOHC (double overhead camshaft) V8 engine. Some of Ford Thunderbirds and several Land Rovers came equipped with said engine. In fact it was only the forth new generation engine introduced in the history of Jaguar.

Ford 3.9L Engines « Used Engines for Sale Used Engines for Sale

Jim Lombardi

 

I have read most of your comprehensive posts on aluminum tensioner fix and now have a question. I have a 2000 Lincoln LS 3.9. I think upper tensioner on left bank going bad (rattling noise at that specific spot). Engine still runs fine and I've maintained it well getting many ideas from this Jag Forum (i.e. Great Ball Joint fix, aluminum Thermostat housing, brake stuff). I would like to do this job myself but am scared off by the suggested specialty tools required to be made or bought. Could one of you experts please look at this link and see how this guy says to replace upper tensioner? Has he made TOO simplified for the average FIY-er? Can it be done without special tools if chain not jumped yet? The is the link to the video.
Since this is my first post, I would appreciate a response to my email as well as an answer on the site.
ptb123@knology.net

 

Yep that is one way to do it. Ironically, on the multiscreen after this video on utube, the top left video option, has a video on the zip tie method.


BUT... DO make sure the flats on the cams line up BEFORE you attempt this.


Then turn the exhaust cam to the no load position ( none of the cam lobes are pressing on a valve ) , the undo the caps.
Be careful lifting the cam, they are a hollow casting and can snap!


Basically, just take your time, and be gentle and it is a simple job, but double check the cam flats are in line BEFORE you button up the engine and attempt to start.

 

Is this a great forum or what ? Another Jaguar saved ! I did this fix soon after I got my X308, with help from this forum. It's sad to see some people reading about the issue after it's too late. Thanks, and Happy New Year !

 

Lots of sources for the parts and tool rental: but for those doing just the secondaries, Christopher Foreign Car Parts is where many go: pretty cheap, couple days shipping delay. A local guy who was in the used car business, however, went to the local Lincoln Dealer and got the parts, including the shorter bolts, for a slightly cheaper price WITHOUT shipping and handling, same day.

Lots of instructions in lots of threads: pay very careful attention to Andrew Lowe's suggestions above on aligning the cams to check the timing and THEN TURNING the camshaft to take all valve spring pressure off the cam lobes before tying down and unbolting . . . it is critical. Also, you will find instructions on pulling the fuel pump relay before initially cranking over the engine -- this allows the oil pressure to build in the new aluminum tensioners (oil pressure provides tension not springs). Then once the chains are tightened reinsert the pump relay and start it up. Tightening the cam caps is much like tightening a head, center, front, back, center top, front bottoms, etc., then once snug torque in the same sequence. PATIENCE, don't hurry it. You probably read this already: it is worth reading again, I have seen a couple of cases where folks have broken the cam shaft on start up.