I used an aerosol can of jhm pacific blue to respray my wing mirrors. It was only whilst I was in the airport car park that I suddenly realised how easy the covers are to remove : as I reversed into a space, the wing mirror somehow very slightly touched a concrete column and the cover popped right off. With this kind of encouragement, I thought what the heck let's give it a go!

Newly empowered by the first cover now sitting in my boot, I managed to wrestle off the other at my leisure, minus any helpful column type passersby.

The result is a fine pair of covers, now minus any damage whatsoever. I have been told that the orange peel like finish is a sought after effect that only a few can muster. I am winning already.

Once reinstalled, I noticed how the jhm colour appeared to be slightly different from the car itself and when I went to order another can I noticed that this is due to the car code being JHE, not jhm. Seeing as we don't have either the pacific or many sapphires in these parts though, I doubt anyone else will notice. I hope.

The End.


Wing mirror respray

 

I started getting the "TRAC not available/ASB not available" message a couple of weeks ago. It was intermittent, then it got regular. I had cleaned my wheel speed sensors in the past, so suspected that it was time to service the ABS module as they are renown for solder joints going dry.

It is fairly easy to remove the ABS module, it would have been a lot easier if Jaguar had mounted the ABS unit 1/4" higher, and routed the brake lines just 1/4" further way, but even with these obstacles it was still pretty easy.

You just need to remove the two E30 torx screws holding the wiper relay bracket and move it out of the way. Remove the two 10mm nuts holding ground wires, and move the wiring out of the way. The ABS unit has a little flexibility in it and if you bend it back slightly you can access and withdraw the 4 E-5 torx bolts holding the Module.to the ABS unit. You need to pull the sliding latch holding the multi-pin connector to the module, and move it out of thr way. Then squeeze and wiggle the 2-pin power connector to the module and also move it out of the way. Now all you have to do is bend the brake lines a little and the module will slide out.

There are tutorials on the internet showing how to cut your way into the unit to repair the solder joints, and others showing how to cut a window into the unit to do repairs, but I opted to send mine to a specialist shop for repair and testing https://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com...2001_c1140.htm (Van Nuys CA) ($45 plus $13 return shipping)

 

I had to do that in 2012 ~ 60K miles. I used ModuleMaster in ID. Not sure still in business. They rebuilt with a 5 year guarantee.
Got Jag dealer to remove & ship module to them & store my car & install it when it was shipped back to them. They originally had a MUCH higher price. I think it was triple the total price I ended up paying. When I mentioned MM, the SA had used them himself for one of his other vehicles (Motorcycle?) & agreed. My total cost was $555 including a dealer loaner vehicle.
I think they had the car > 1 week.

Anyway that completely fixed my "TRAC not available/ASB not available" messages. I had also cleaned my wheel speed sensors & think it made absolutely no difference.

 

This mornings upgrade. I was actually surprised with this one. Not only does the car feel better being tossed in a corner but the squeaks from the back seat are gone. Whole car feels more rigid.

 

Am I the only person that's never noticed the adjustable door buffers on each door and also on the boot? I've had this car over five years and found the crashing sound of the doors a little irritating throughout.

Problem reasonably solved now with a twist, but maybe new door seals would help even more.



Only £14 each! Part Hna5305aa

 

 

Chrisjag, had never noticed them until you pointed them out, now they seem obvious!

A simple and useful design, this info is deserving of the "Did You Know" thread.

 

 

My repaired TRAC/ABS module arrived back today.

It was a simple job to reinstall, and now no TRAC/ABS waning lights......perfect!

I can recommend "Module Repair Pro" in Los Angeles, their service is excellent.

I simply went to their site, (https://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com...2001_c1140.htm) filled out the online form with my vehicle details, address etc and submitted to them, as well as printed a copy to include with my module. The module fits neatly in a standard USPS small box wrapped in some bubble wrap and I mailed it on Monday morning USPS 2 day Priority Mail for $9.45. It arrived at Module Repair Pro on Wednesday at 11:35 am, I received an email from Module Repair Pro at 3:30pm that same day that my repair was complete and it was ready to be shipped back. It arrived this morning. A six day total turnaround.

The cost, $45 for the repair and testing of the unit, $9.47 to ship it to them, $13.44 to ship it back, so a total of $68.00.

I feel comfortable with this method rather than me cutting the unit apart, soldering the joints, then hoping it is fixed, gluing it all back together, putting it back on the car, and finding the TRAC/ABS light still comes on. Now I don't know if my repair was successful, or if there is another cause on the car. By sending it to them, they professionally repair it, and test it......I know the module is good.

If anyone suspects their ABS module needs attention do not be afraid of removing it, it is one of the simplest repair jobs on the X308, 15 minutes to remove, and 10 minutes to put back.

 

Installed a nice, used(no cracks anywhere) AC vent piece. How does one get the center wood grain to stay in place firmly? Mine comes off pretty easy, if you pry the lower right side with a flat head.

Also finishing up the led sidemarkers. Cleaning the lenses on the inside and polishing the lenses.
Old piece shown in pic number 2

 

I'm thinking if you remove the fascia piece and "stretch" the metal spring clips that hold the center fascia piece into those square retaining slots it may secure the piece better?

 

One ribbon of electrical tape on the prongs will work as well. But check for cracks as the plate it mounts to cracks around the slots. I just replaced the entire vent w/ a non-cracked unit, no problems since.

Edit:
From your pics I can see yours is cracked that will allow for ample play/loosening.

 

Did a baseline dyno run today to see how she does after the mods. Was 101* out with 60% humidity so I am fine with the 293/312 numbers it laid down to the wheels. Sounded pretty good doing it too.

 

Yes, I replaced the vent as well. We'll see how it does once I drive it on these horrid Dallas roads.
@LaserSVT sounds good! Cant wait to hear it with the pulley. Are you going to keep the exhaust stock?

 

I plan on buying the Mina one latter or maybe just welding in some Borla XS Pros

 

Todays fun!

 

Needs some sound videos!

The day finally came for me though... NEW new wheels!

 

Ran the Vanden Plas through the 1/2 yr check at the same time with the XK8.
Kind of made up my mind earlier that I will sell the XK to a good new owner next year, but she looks soo damn good if you see her moving ....

 

Since the weather finally broke, I'm starting the engine bay detailing today. Finally non-triple digit FH temps w torrential rain & humidity around here.

 

Well, X308 related ... I cleaned out my last storage room today, and organised the parts of the last 5 years.
I tend to keep a lot as everything is hard to get here, but enough is enough, I need some space.

Something I really hope I can make somebody happy with is the rear seat leather of my Vanden Plas.
Absolute new condition, Ivory (NED) with piping.
I would love to see it used, in stead of disappearing in the garbage.
Can skin them, normal posrage should not be that expensive.