My 99 XJR would not crank when warm. Wait 3 hours, and started fine.
I decided to change the starter, since one terminal felt a little loose. It took 3 months to get around to it. My sunroof leaked a little, and the car got very damp inside.(Sealed now)
Now this
1 No start. I can jump the starter, and it spins fast
2 Transmission failure
3 incorrect part fitted
4 Engine in safety mode.
OBD2 reader not communicating, and I tried 2 different readers.
Battery is fully charged, and bulkhead connections are good. I put a jumper box on the bulkhead connections as well to make sure.
I got good voltage to the fuse boxes in the engine compartment
Wipers work, seat works, windows work, and steering wheel works.
Now what? The junk yard !

 

First order of business is to make sure you have sufficient voltage on the battery. Second is to get the CAN bus working so that the OBD reader works. I'm hearing nothing but water (or voltage) that could have caused this problem. So, if you have a voltmeter, you can measure the voltage on the OBD port, across Pin 16 and Pins 4-5 below. Should be above 12ish. if it's not, go back to battery and make sure that's above 12.

 

Thanks for the info, but I have to take a break.
Unfortunately I need open to the trunk through the license plate , since I reset the ecm by shorting out the battery.
My unlocked trunk closed with the negative terminal laying on the positive., and the key won't work
I tried to shake the car, and it didn't help..
I am done with the car for today.( It is really good that I don't drink)
I will be back!!!

 

fast crank sounds like you’ve lost compression, bore wash or something else

 

OK.
I opened my trunk.
I have done a hard reset
I have power to the obd2 port, and. scanner goes through the motions, and after 10 seconds no link.
My voltage is about 12.4 v everywhere, grounding to the chassis, or the engine.
No blown fuses.
No changes from before .... no cranking, transmission fault,incorrect part fitted, and engine fail safe., and obd2 gets a "no link" error.
Starter works good when jumped.
Do I have a bad ecm?

 

A couple of simple things you can try:

1. Check whether the starter relay is clicking when the key is turned to "start"


If the relay does not click, the problem is possibly in the Body Processor Module.

2. If the relay clicks (but the starter motor does not engage), check the inline connector (circled yellow) on the wire going to the starter solenoid for corrosion:

 

This is interesting, never occurred to me the ECU and brake master cylinder would be swapped in right hand drive models but makes sense. That is a clean XJR engine.

 

I hear a faint noise from the glove box area when I turn the key.( I can jump the starter with a screw driver, but the car won't start )
Interior lights go out when I turn the key to start, but the dash warning lights stays on bright, with out any dimming.
The car is stuck in park.
The heater panel above the radio says "Er".
I have brake lights.
Is it possible that the brake light switch is bad??

 

I have had low voltage issues on my XJR before that prevented a start but that was usually solved by a fresh battery/new cables/new relays. If you heard a clicking from the glovebox area that is where the security module lives and it can kill starts. However that doesn't explain all the other error messages including error on your climate control. It really sounds like you have ECU issues but I would start by making sure all the connections are cleaned and that moisture hasn't accumulated in the ECU or security module or corroded the connections.

Sorry if I missed it but have you tried a charcoal cannister or anything else to draw moisture out of the interior?

 

The got very wet, and I have sealed the leaking sunroof. In the process of drying out.
I have 12.4v everywhere. A jumper box is not changing anything.
The reason I changed the starter was that it would not start when warm. After it cooled down it started.
All errors, and obd2 no link are new issues, and stuck in park.
This has become a fishing expedition.
Stop light switch, Ecm, bcm, or the transmission module.
I have a 2001 as well. Maybe I should make my 99 a donor instead of the 01

 

The "faint noise" from the glove box area could be from the starter relay which is in the engine compartment just in front of the glove box. The relay location is as shown on the diagram I posted above and in the compartment where the ECU is located. You can see this compartment on the picture I posted, bottom right corner, covered with a piece of cardboard (it will be on the opposite side on your car). If you open the compartment and verify that the starter relay is clicking when the key is turned to "start", that would be good news.

The fact that the interior lights go out when turned to "start" suggest that you have a bad connection somewhere on the main power distribution cables or on the ground cables. Check/clean the connection on the "firewall", circled red/blue on the picture I posted (opposite side on your car) as well as thick cable connections (covered with rubber caps) at the two fuse boxes in the engine compartment. Also check/clean the connections at the big fuses in the trunk (in front of spare tyre). Check/clean the connections of the engine ground cable.

 

i had it go lights out and starter solenoid clicking when cranking

was a loose ground on pass side firewall, got hot enough to melt the plastic shrouding onto the threads.

 

I have plenty of voltage.
When I turn the key the interior lights go out, bur the headlights don't dim.
The voltage is not changing when I turn the key, with a voltmeter on the bulkhead stud.
The brake lights work, but the shifter is stuck in park, and the p is not lit up..There is no difference in neutral
I inspected the the ECM, and the TCM. , and the harnesses. No burn marks, and everything looks good.
The ignition switch back is sloppy. I will replace it, and check the ring ohms.
I only have a aftermarket master key, and a remote that works.
When I had issues with not starting when warm, the Autel shop obd2 reader did not give any codes exept a faulty abs module that was rebuilt, with no issues since, and I have no abs fault on the dash..
This has become a fishing expedition.