On a 2002 XJR100, some readings say transmission fluid is ‘lifetime’. Saw an article in a reputable magazine that said it should be changed at 60K miles, but article didn’t say what fluid spec or quantity was required.
any thoughts on overall need, and what type and fluid are required? I have already purchased the fluid filter and pan gasket.
Thanks,
Brian in South Texas

 

I believe you posted you question in the wrong section - I think the X100 section is what you want.

But I can tell you that the ATF for lifetime is definitively a Jaguar-lie - not even the transmission suppliers to Jaguar ever agreed to that.
Of course, if you define, that the lifetime of a Jag is 10 Years, after which it has to die, then "lifetime" is correct.
Yes, when you are at 60k miles, it's about time to slowly think about an ATF change.

But since you asked your question in the X308 section, I can only give you the X308 answer to your question:
Here is the DIY guide I wrote some time ago of how to change the ATF on the X308, and which ATF should be used:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-flush-265900/

I am sure that it is very important that you figure out, which ATF is correct for your X100, but I can guarantee that any multi-vehicle ATF that features a long list of different vehicles, for which it is supposedly suitable, is definitely unsuitable for each and every one of those vehicles listed. ATFs are unique to every transmission. Multi-vehicle ATFs do make compromises, which make them unsuitable for anything (apart from maybe using them as Power Steering Fluid (That's not a joke!)).

 

Maybe they mean "lifetime" of the transmission. When the transmission fails,
it is time for new fluid. Human language can be interpreted in so many ways.
At any rate, tranny fluid change should be considered around 80K according
to my way of thinking.

 

Looks the right section to me, XJR not XKR as you might have read.

Agreed though a fluid & filter change is worth it & you need the right fluid for a Merc 722.6 box to do so in a XJR.

 

I used SHELL 134 ATF when I change fluid and the conductor plate in my 2000MY XKRs

 

he did NOT post to the wrong group.. he has a XJR 100 which is special edition offered for only one year during 2002. not sure your Australia ever offered this one. it is a black on black with red stitching car seat. BBS Montreal wheels and silver Brembo calipers

NOT X100 which is the XK during the same period of time

 

He did NOT post to the wrong group.. he has a XJR 100 which is special edition offered for only one year during 2002. not sure your Australia ever offered this one. it is a black on black with red stitching car seat. BBS Montreal wheels and silver Brembo calipers

NOT X100 which is the XK during the same period of time

 

you just use either Shell 142 or Benz 722.6 ATF. yes...you DO need to change the ATF and you may want to change the conductive plate and socket also

 

Are you say you change the conductor plate as a maintenance item?

 

I changed the plate because one of my cars has 160,000 miles on it and every once in a while I got the GEARBOX OVERTEMP indication and the temp sender is part of the conductor plate.

At 25 years old and high mileage, I thought it wise to replace.

 

Brian,
You may have already started making progress on this topic so I'll apologize if this is a day late (or two...).
These Merc trannys seem to like new fluid and when I did my first "change" I found you get about half of what's in the car out when you drop the pan.
I had shifting issues (reverse to drive) as well as some tranny speed faults that would throw mine into limp home.
After two fluid and filter changes (again, not all the fluid) things improved but what fixed everything was a conductor plate swap.
Mine came with the tranny to tranny control module connectore housing as well which is known to allow fluid to wick up the harness to the control module, not just in our cats but in sprinters and Chryslers that use this Merc tranny.
The old girl has been shifting properly and without faults since that swap.
The conductor plate isn't just plastic it's pretty flimsy plastic IMHO.
It only takes a few more bolts to get the valve body down to get access to the conductor plate.
As long as you have the pan down and your hands are covered in fluid anyway it's time well spent.
Good luck!

 

I have a full case of ATF 134 that I don't need anymore. I'm in Central Florida if anyone needs it.
Vector