Yellow warning when braking??
Exiting the highway the yellow waring light came on as I was decelerating. Couple times briefly then once it stayed on while I was at the light with foot on brake. It did Not go limp on me for a change.
So why when doing a noticeable deceleration from above 75 would I trigger the warning light?? Low fluid and vacuum thing in tranny?
Also for the past 3 days before driving I've been going through the gears before backing out with hopes to skip the gearbox fault and Limp mode issue I'd been having at startup. Maybe that's working? Haven't had willie the limp show up for 3 consecutive days. Why is that?
And what is the color of my atf suppose to be? You know, the factory stuff. All I was told is it's not pink.
Thank you.
So why when doing a noticeable deceleration from above 75 would I trigger the warning light?? Low fluid and vacuum thing in tranny?
Also for the past 3 days before driving I've been going through the gears before backing out with hopes to skip the gearbox fault and Limp mode issue I'd been having at startup. Maybe that's working? Haven't had willie the limp show up for 3 consecutive days. Why is that?
And what is the color of my atf suppose to be? You know, the factory stuff. All I was told is it's not pink.
Thank you.
Vauxi has XJR his fluid is red, you have XJ8 yours is light yellowish, turning darker with time, akin engine oil
You have to read the code (yellow warning) without it we are in darkness
You have to read the code (yellow warning) without it we are in darkness
Last edited by xjack; Aug 25, 2024 at 04:41 AM.
I'd like to see what the newest one just posted after I tried to leave my street but not even a hint of print this sunny Sunday afternoon. I have a good guess what it might say... Gearbox Fault. Ah yes my dear friend has come back after a 3 day weekend. Brought a new gift too, a 5 second yellow light when I pressed the brake pedal before shifting. Car is just getting ready for some fun I suppose.
I wonder if these "events" that don't leave P'codes are logged elsewhere? Like a notepad memo which an all knowing scanner privy to Jag specfic data can access? Should have that answer soon as Jag and its lighting crew are getting probed by a specialist before lunch time tomorrow. I'll be sure not to fill up on too many codes so I can share my dream with the world.
And the tranny fluid on my cardboard drip catcher could be power steering fluid but I doubt it. No worries as the motor oil spot may be tranny fluid! How accommodating is that! A win/win situation for all. All the part manufacturers and tech specialists everywhere! We jag owners do our best at helping everyone don't we.
Reminds me of the story about a politician that couldn't tell a lie. Oh wait, that's just a story like the jag that went 100k miles. Or was that 10,000 miles??? No, it was 10 miles between major service events!! That's it, MY story! Twas a beautiful late summers day with the sun shinning and the breeze was flithering away and the free floating headliner which had dropped in to take a gander at the rolling hills as we coated by closed service shops that Sunday afternoon. It was simply breathtaking as i coasted downhill without any messages or lighting effects from the usually overworked dashboard display.. There was nothing to distract me from the cool breeze flapping of the headliner, stationary petrol Guage and the bus ticket in my hand with the deed to this machine. Who will be next to enjoy the ride? You perhaps???
Life couldn't be better. There's always something new to do and I have the key. Once inserted there's no stopping me now. And about those brakes...
to be continued.
@Psycom With regards to the dim instrument pack or 'IPK' there are serviceable bulbs that can be replaced, you can find their type location and extraction all on here via the search.
The IPK only gives you warnings, you'll need an OBD reader that can pull up chassis codes as Motorcarman has kindly suggested, again a simple thing to buy these days.
I have to ask, how old is your battery, and what is it's standing voltage? Anything under 12.5V does lead to some odd ghost code behaviour, a good first place to start is a battery in good condition check.
The IPK only gives you warnings, you'll need an OBD reader that can pull up chassis codes as Motorcarman has kindly suggested, again a simple thing to buy these days.
I have to ask, how old is your battery, and what is it's standing voltage? Anything under 12.5V does lead to some odd ghost code behaviour, a good first place to start is a battery in good condition check.
If your LCD display is out and you have the yellow light come on, maybe it’s saying “check rear lights”? 🤷♂️🤷♂️
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Good thinking.
I'll continue the search for a way to check the fluid level and change. To make it easier I'll include BMW to broaden the field since many have used this zf transmission.
Also look around to find a scanner that'll read what I can't see. I didn't fork over 165$ for that info since it wouldn't have fixed anything. I'd rather buy the dipstick kit which cost the same. Probably my best option. That would allow me to keep it rolling as the leak is minimal. I grew up with having to keep an eye on fluids due to leaks. Cars ran without incident.
Bottom line is I've got to check the fluid level. Until I do ill not drive the car far if at all.
Brake lights are fine but that display is in need of a fix. Since I'm basically parked now it'll give me a different project to tackle. It does need fixed and I believe its an easier one to do. Thanks for the idea.

About the yellow warning light that came on when braking, finally saw message and it was something like Check back lights. Hasn't showed up for awhile now.
Perhaps a low battery was to blame. I don't know but had battery load tested and it came back at 100%.
Haven't seen gearbox fault nor had limp mode for a few days.
Perhaps a low battery was to blame. I don't know but had battery load tested and it came back at 100%.
Haven't seen gearbox fault nor had limp mode for a few days.
@Psycom With regards to the dim instrument pack or 'IPK' there are serviceable bulbs that can be replaced, you can find their type location and extraction all on here via the search.
The IPK only gives you warnings, you'll need an OBD reader that can pull up chassis codes as Motorcarman has kindly suggested, again a simple thing to buy these days.
I have to ask, how old is your battery, and what is it's standing voltage? Anything under 12.5V does lead to some odd ghost code behaviour, a good first place to start is a battery in good condition check.
The IPK only gives you warnings, you'll need an OBD reader that can pull up chassis codes as Motorcarman has kindly suggested, again a simple thing to buy these days.
I have to ask, how old is your battery, and what is it's standing voltage? Anything under 12.5V does lead to some odd ghost code behaviour, a good first place to start is a battery in good condition check.
What kinda havoc could this cause? Must be needed or it wouldn't be there but what if it wasn't? Plenty of grounds on the car and i'm not sure what its attached to. Looks like a tainted ground to me.
Just found while reviewing a video. Is it a problem?
Last edited by Psycom; Sep 1, 2024 at 09:19 AM.
The starter and alternator need a HEAVY ground strap.
I remember many decades ago when the speedometer on a car would stop working and the cable was found to be MELTED.
Turns out the earth strap would fail and the starter needed to get a ground SOMEWHERE so the speedo cable was it.
I remember many decades ago when the speedometer on a car would stop working and the cable was found to be MELTED.
Turns out the earth strap would fail and the starter needed to get a ground SOMEWHERE so the speedo cable was it.
The starter and alternator need a HEAVY ground strap.
I remember many decades ago when the speedometer on a car would stop working and the cable was found to be MELTED.
Turns out the earth strap would fail and the starter needed to get a ground SOMEWHERE so the speedo cable was it.
I remember many decades ago when the speedometer on a car would stop working and the cable was found to be MELTED.
Turns out the earth strap would fail and the starter needed to get a ground SOMEWHERE so the speedo cable was it.
Now I'm unsure exactly where I found that ground but I did it from underneath. Couldn't spot it from up top. Looks like another ramp job. If it'd quit raining I could get it up. Thats what I told her anyway.

I did make an approach that raises the car enough to go up the ramps I have. When it clears up I'll pick my spot and take care of the ground. I've got extra phat ground wires ready to go so I'll reinforce where I can. The ones for headlights and the hood hinge I sprayed down with DeOxit D5.
After thinking about it I began to wonder Again! About the tranny codes and the location of that ground. Coincidence? Doubt it. One way or another everything is connected on a Jag!
Appreciate your insight.












