So I am not sure whats happening now, but the idle is way low. It falls down to around 6/7 and dies at stops. In park it's at about 9. usually its 11 and 7/8. It's also a BIT#@ to start now, always been a problem I guess but worse now.
I know I neeed to check the clamps and ductwork, but someone here once told me to adjust something on the AFM. Is it the allen head screw that is in the deep hole in the corner?

 

That's the idle mixture adjustment. Base setting is about 2 turns from the bottom, as I recall. Experiment from here. I suspect a problem elsewhere, though.

Is the throttle blade gapped to .002" and the throttle bore clean?


Cheers
DD

 

The bore is clean. The gap? Not sure where that is and how do I adjust it?

 

I'm suspecting it's something else also. Reminds me of vacuum leak on Chevys.

 

well maybe it was the starter(that I just replaced a couple months ago). It just dragged and quit. had to get a jump, got home and now it's done. need to let it cool off, so I can take it off and go get it warranteed. Damned auto parts stores!!!!
May not be the issue, but I can't do much if it won't start.
Can you please tell me more on what part of the throttle blade to check and how to adjust it if it's not right. I'd be really greatful.

 

I guess I should have mentioned that I did a vacumn test like I use to on domestic cars. used brake cleaner and sprayed it all over the motor. sprayed it in the air cleaner and it made it rev up, did not do it anywhere throught the motor area, so I basically ruled out a vacumn leak I think. going to get starter traded out in afew minutes. It takes so long for a black car in almost 100 degree heat to cool off so that you can work on it.

 

Using a .002" feeler blade check the gap between the throttle plate and the throttle bore. If it needs adjusting you see an external adjuster screw with a locknut. Looks a bit like an idle speed adjustment screw on an old carburetor. A little fussy to deal with.

Cheers
DD

 

Well, a bum starter won't change how the engine actually *runs*.

It'll have a big bearing on how how well it starts, tho!


Cheers
DD

 

Thanks again Doug. Very greatful once again.

 

Now that did make a difference!!! Doug, your awesome!!! haven't driven it yet but it started better than it's ever started since I've owned it. Now I'm anxious to take it for a drive tomorrow.

 

Yea I agree. But I'm really frustrated with company's that rebuild these parts and only test them on a minimal scale. In the past I've had starters completely fry the alternator and battery, and an E.C.M. once, because they had internal problems that carried over to the rest of the electrical sysytems.
When I went to warranty this starter they didn't even check it. They are so use to this that, they don't even check them. I almost feel like sending them a bill for my heartaches. I wonder how that would work. In construction it would be called a backcharge..... I tried it before!!! Doesn't work without a laywer.
Question. Does this bullsh#@ happen in other country's? Or is it just ours(U.S.A.)? I guess that is 2 questions.

 

"little fussy"... that's being real nice. If they would have simply put a slot for a screwdriver, it would be so much easier.

 

There are no design faults on a Jaguar. Anything that looks like a design fault is, in actuality, "an interesting engineering feature".




Cheers
DD

 

In recent year the quality of rebuilt anything has dropped way off. 50-50 success, at best. I now give all my starter and alternator rebuilding business to a local shop who does 'em in-house. 100% success!



Many towns have rebuild shops. Maybe yours, too!

Cheers
DD

 

There are a few. I just moved back to this metro area and the guys I use to use are not here anymore. I have came across a few that I didn't like but I'm still looking.

 

Good one!