I've gone to considerable time and trouble to buff the aluminum and paint the bottoms of the ribs black. I know from experience that oil leaks at the chrome nuts and copper washers even with new ones. Anybody have a tried and trued method to keep them from leaking oil? And still be able to get the covers off in the future.

 

Unfortunately not Oil seeps in many critters quite common. I've no expertise here, and probably no where else.


But, the key here seems to be in three places and the relationship to each other.


1. The cam cover sealing surface must not only be clean and flat. but at 90 degrees to the stud.


2. The surface of the acorn nut must be absolutely flat and perpendicular to the bore.


3. the copper washers must be not only flat, but malleable. Ie, relatively soft.


Were it my car and I sought a no leak seal, I would add a dab of Permatex red.


Nice work for sure !


Carl

 

Might be worth dabbing a bit of gasket goo either side of the copper washers just before fitting them. These things can be very hard to seal ! I seem to remember trying a few turns of plumbers PTFE thread tape around the stud before putting the washers on then another couple of turns on top of that too, but this then acts just like gasket goo, but is less messy

 

if you overtighten one acorn, you distort the cover, if you overtighten all of them, imagine the distortion.

the tendency is to overtighten, when the opposite is the right way to do it, snug them and then 1/4 turn more, but no more.

your covers might already be distorted, that's why it is leaking. The last time mine were tightened, was in 1995 and they are essentially dry up until today. But you will always have "blow-by" oil on the covers.

try a red fiber washer under the copper washer, the same fiber material used for sealing carburetor banjo fittings. Where to get them? Try ACE hardware in their Specialty Hardware section.

 

I've had good luck with the tiny dab of goo method. After snugging just carefully wipe away the excess.

I often considered the fiber washer thing; seemed like a good idea; just never got around to trying it.

What I've seen is that the area that the copper washer faces against is always damaged or distorted to one degree or another. If it ain't perfect, the washer won't seal.

Cheers
DD

 

From Chilly Ontario (-2C).
Great looking Engine. Can you advise on the Exhaust manifold finish? And how is it standing up? I'd love to redo mine, Ian

 

it was worse with the polished aluminum valve covers used by Jaguar until 1967, because they were thinner so the overtightening really warped them and cracked the aluminum in tiny cracks, so people kept tightening them, making it worse.

I learned the trick of the fiber washers when I bought my '65 S type, I noticed them under the copper washers. Do they fix the problem? only partly.

I think the problem is inside or "under" the valve cover, if you turn them around, clean them good, you will see cracks or "bowing" in each hole.

if something could be devised to glue a washer permanently over the inside of the hole the problem could be defeated.

or perhaps a SPACER which will take up the space between the inside surface of the valve cover and the top of the cylinder head over the stud, so no "bowing" takes place when tightening or over-tightening. The question is how to measure that inside distance. I suppose using some "Silly Putty" over the stud to compress it and then measuring the compressed result?? Then fabricating the spacers.

I too want to detail my valve covers which have lost their luster but I am afraid to undo them because they are dry and I know the minute I take them off and put them back on they will leak at the acorn nuts. The mechanic who did my stakedown kit had a certain "finesse" tightening these covers and they have remained dry since 1995. In fact I think he torqued them in a "star" pattern, just like you torque wheels.

 

Went with the dab of goo method, with new copper gaskets. It's amazing how much gap is in between the studs and the holes in the cam cover.

 

This what I used many years ago and has held up fantastic.

 

Check out this site. Could something like these washers not work?

https://www.grainger.com/category/se...z0ifqqZ1z1390q

 

Maybe... but 20 x $3.30 is $66 !!!!

 

Here is something similar on Amazon - box of 100 for $40 US. That's 40 cents each. A box would do 5 engines!

They seem to have a press fit seal over the stud. That plus the flat underside should pretty much seal all leak points.

 

You could this site fair prices and amazing shipping
Al and Copper washers (metric sizes only but should be something close)
https://www.mcmaster.com/#washers/=1c35xmq
Oil resistant rubber
https://www.mcmaster.com/#washers/=1c35y0n

 

Mcmaster.com,, Buna-N-rubber sealing washers.

i have used that style for hi-pressure leaks .

 

If the copper washers have been removed and replaced they tend to work-harden. Take them off and heat them up with a blowtorch until they just start to turn dark red. This will anneal (soften) them and they will seal better when tightened back down. Not foolproof but it does work.

 

1. I used an aluminized paint on the down pipes on my lump. years have passed and the finish survives. Not as hot as the manifolds, I expect, but, close. Eastwood origin I think. I wanted to apply it to the pipes and cats back to the Jaguar mufflers. never got to it, but so far those pipes are as good as when installed. Not SS, merely steel. But, my Jaguar, along with my other animals, Coco and Billy do lead rather sheltered lives.


2. The Ram Horn after market manifolds for my lump came in a flat black finish. It burned off bit by bit to a not unpleasing red oxide.


3. Decades ago, I met a fellow that restored decrepit trucks for duty as sugar beet haulers. Cosmetics included. He painted the manifolds and they burned off to that red oxide look. Many interesting trucks doing that haul.


Carl