Hi all!
currently replacing a head gasket on my series 3 and while the head is off am doing complementary work.
one of the things to do on my list is replacing the studs that hold the head to the block.

I have seen a few different sellers online all with different head studs (material wise) and was wondering if anyone had any reccomendations.
ive been told to go ARP but the kit ive found from terrys jag ( https://www.terrysjag.com/product/HSKE422TJP.html ) is a bit pricey.
im willing to spend the money, but am wondering if its even worth it?

im not looking to cheap out and get studs that will break in a few years but i also dont really need studs that are ment for racing.
any reccomendations would be great.

Furthermore if anyone has a clear diagram for the correct stud locations for the slightly longer studs that would be great as everything ive found on the specific stud locations is somewhat unclear.

 

XJ6 S-3 Cylinder Head Stud Notes:

Clean Stud holes in Cylinder HeadRun a reamer or correct sized drill through each of 14-cylinder head holes.Ensure all corrosion is removed.

Which end of Stud is up?

Three of the short studs have a 1/16” wider band at one end; This side goes down.

The Dowel stud has band at the top (below threads) where the head slides on, to “locate” the head on the block,

The long studs are threaded at both ends, but one end has an un-threaded tip; This end goes down.

Stud Placement (Series 3 and some Series 2 engines.)

There are fourteen studs, four short and ten long: Three of the Ten long studs are three 3/16” longer than the remaining seven (different part numbers). The longest studs hold the two Engine lift brackets.

The four short studs are easy to place as they go is the four corners. With the dowel stud placed in the forward exhaust side of block (Dowel band up).

Three longest studs are placed on intake side in number 2, number 5 and number 6 positions for the two Engine Lift Brackets. (Number 1 position being forward most on the intake side)

Length of 14 studs:

(3 ea. C2269) = 6 7/16”

(1 ea.C42355)= 6 5/8”Dowel stud

(3 ea. C38073) = 12 15/16” Longest

(7 ea. C29033) = 12 11/16”

Last: Install Tappet Guide Hold-Down Kit on exhaust side after cams are in and torqued.

Following the torqueing procedures accurately is very-very important, in order to getting the Head Gasket to last. Two kinds of head gaskets are on market, one you retorque after 12-24 hours of stretching, the newer type, does not recommend retorquing (there will be note on packaging, saying not to retorque). ARP studs not required, but if money is no object, then they are a good investment. You must use ARP installation instructions, not the Jaguar manual instructions.

Buy your studs from the major Jaguar suppliers, not the on line parts houses...

Rgds.
David

 

And... make sure the studs are NOT topping out (bottoming out?) inside the chrome "Acorn Nuts". You won't get that nut to properly torque down the head. Use new washers under the Acorn Nuts.

Bill

 

This is from previous Forum Post, summarized so you don't have to read full post. This ensures new studs are fully bottomed into block

"For my removal, I soaked the studs from above with liquid wrench while waiting for parts... drizzle down side of stud few times a day, I used double nut (grade 8) method and vise grip for stud removal... Hit top of stud several times with 10 pound sledge hammer straight down before twisting.
To clean block threads after removal, I made extension for tap from 14" 1/4 socket extension and with tap forced into 9/32 socket. Started with regular Tap, finish with bottom. Had to make sure socket and tap did not fall off inside engine (Supper glue gel) The welded rod/T handle, would be safer.
To clean holes and get rid of any fluids in hole I used 5/16" brass tube with slots cut in one end to allow airflow, hooked up to shop vacuum cleaner with 3/8" plastic tubing and a cut-up small funnel duct taped to the shop vac hose. (Forum post, I don't remember who to give credit to... worked very well) "

Rgds
David

I did not pull coolant plugs as that memo came around after I had it all back to gather.

 

More notes on new studs and new gasket installation.
Rgds
David

 

I would recommend also getting a full set of new acorn nuts to go with your new set of studs. There is a risk if thread stretch if you re-use old ones.

 

And the new Acorn Nuts will be nice and shiny and enhance the look of the engine compartment!!

 

Thank you for the guide!

i had a good idea on most of it but this made everythig very clear and got rid of any fears of putting it back together incorrectly.

as for the studs themselves do you have any reccomendations in particular for where to look?

so far the places selling the studs that ive found have had them listed at around $300 for a set.
is this the average price for a set of these studs?
if so ill probably just end up going with the ARP as theyre only $30 more at that point.

 

At Moss Motors website: I am seeing $499 for ARP long stud engines, and $330 for short stud engines?
$275 -$300 is common for OEM studs
Rgds
David

 

Moss Motors website: I am seeing $499 for ARP long stud engines. Note: This does include new nuts and washers.
$275 -$300 is common for OEM studs. New nuts and washers not included.
Rgds
David
PS Note: Long ARP stud kit does not have short Dowel Stud. You can get a Moss OEM C42355 Dowel stud for $9.99; after you get 13 ARP studs and 1 OEM stud to 20 ft/lbs. torque, remove C42355 stud and install the 14th ARP stud, and proceed with final ARP torqueing instructions.