Hey everyone,

Anyone have any experience with making their heater and ac blow harder than they do? Seems like I barely get any air flow coming out.

 

you might have a vacuum or vent actuator issue because these systems have 4 Speed blowers and they are powerful lowering the interior temperature, especially in the 4th speed.

AND/OR you might need to remove the blower cases to clean the blowers of accumulated grime and fix the rods and their plastic hinge clips which break after years of use, causing the flaps to not open.

 

Besides what Jose says, Lubing the motor wicks and cleaning the shafts is also a Very good idea, as it's probably been several decades since they got a drink.

Getting that done should keep you occupied for some time, but after you do it, it won't have to be touched for another 40 odd years.
(';')

 

Elinor now that you mention "wicks", it brought memories of worn out blower motor Brushes. They do wear out.

 

Elinor, can you tell me where the blower motor wicks are? I'm glad to hear about this excellent, but old fashion, method of lubrication. I'm not glad that I didn't know about them a year ago.

Dave

 

Thank you everyone for all the feedback, I’ll look into this! Would having a brand new AC unit put in affect any of these issues? It was recently replaced with one since there wasn’t one in the vehicle when I purchased it. Also- off topic question- any advice or product anyone recommend to soften the leather and keep it conditioned? I do keep the car in the garages stored away but it’s cold and the leather is starting to stiffen up a bit.

 

Ulysses, I use Guardian Leather Conditioner on a leather chair I have, happy with the results. But there are many more out there and others may chime in with their favorites.

Dave

 

Wicks are on the ends of the motor shafts, Dave, right where one might expect them to be.
Like most things on these cars, they weren't really intended to be taken apart, but with tenacity and patience it can be done.

There are 3 sheet metal screws attaching the fan to the flap box, 2 on the top (After you manage to free the assembly from the car! I've written up this adventure Twice in here, a search will doubtless find it) and the third screw, hidden under the lower flap. There is an insulating "rubber" sheet between the fan body and the box that can be separated with putty knife or such.

How the motor is accessed doesn't come to mind right now as it's been some years, but the squirrel cage is only screwed to a flat on the shaft, and then the motor comes apart with 2 through-bolts. After that, the wicks are there on the end caps for your lubrication pleasure.

As they say, "To reassemble, reverse the above procedure."
(';')

 

It's best to work on leather when weather is warm. In winter, the treatment might just sit on the surface, not penetrating to the part that really needs nourishment.
(';')

 

I like Lexol for the leather. Reasonably priced and available everywhere. I've used the super expensive stuff by in my opinion Lexol is just as good, and it smells like a leather shop. Just squirt some on your hands and give your seats a massage. Also use it on my wife's purses, belts, etc.
Jeff

 

I like Lexol as well.

Leatherique is good but expensive. If your leather is already is good condition their Pristine Clean is a great product

I've found that any conditioner will keep the leather soft....once you get it soft, that is. Sometimes it is too far gone.

Anhydrous lanolin can help. Messy stuff, though. Buy it online.

Whatever you use it takes patience, lots of it, to soften stiff leather.

Cheers
DD

 

I swear by Leatherique 2-part treatment and cleaner. It's use is counterintuitive as you first apply the treatment and follow with the cleaner. Unless I researched it, I would have cleaned first and treated after. You saturate the leather surfaces, park the car in the sun and wind up the windows. The heat causes the pores in the leather to open, expelling the dirt. Keep applying the treatment until the leather no longer absorbs any more. This took me 3 days before it stopped absorbing. Then, use the cleaner to remove the residue (using a clean white microfiber towel is very satisfying as you can really see the gunk that has been expelled).
After a few days, your interior will smell and feel as it did when it came from the factory.

I get my kits here in Ontario, Canada from Robert Laughton (who posts on this forum) and apply it yearly. Magnificent stuff. I've used just about everything on the market and this stuff is just fantastic. Plus, it's very reasonably priced

 

I replaced my Series 1 AC/heater fans with GM units. By actual measurement, they produce much more wind velocity, noise, but work well.
Very little installation change is required, you will need their squirrel cages and put a 1/4 inch or more of silicone on the edges that touch the firewall since they are longer.

 

So one thing I Have also noticed about my heat/ac situation is that when I turn the cold knob I can hear the system working, but barely anything comes out. when I turn the heat knob all the way up I get nothing. I had a brand new heating/ac system installed so Im not sure what the issue is?

 

You mentioned that you had a new heat/AC system installed. Can you tell us more about that? What did they do? If you had someone do it or you, do they stand behind their work? You should deffinetly be getting lots of It flow. What happens when you turn the selector knob to Defrost?

 

I had a premier Jag shop in my area do all the work I had done on it. Not much detail on what was done besides they checked the HVAC and serviced all a/c components. Its definitely not getting a lot of flow, in fact barely any at all. I do plan on returning my Jag to them to make sure they take care of it. They do stand behind their work and are willing to fix any issues so I plan on starting with that. I will keep everyone updated.