I'm thinking of adding an oil cooler to my Series II with the older style canister with long center bolt oil filter. Any ideas?

 

Not sure what you have in mind. I surmise a tap at the filter to move oil to the cooler and return it there. Full flow theory.

Look at how the SIII's do it. They came with oil coolers. As the engines are very similar, a parts swap might just be what you need.

SIII parts from David Boger, swap them in...

Carl

 

If you are prepared to update the system to a screw-on cannister filter (kits are available) then you can also fit a special sandwich-adaptor thing that fits between the cannister and the engine-oil-filter-fitting that sends oil out to and received it back from a cooler. I have seed these used on all sorts of cars and I am presuming (only, I have not done it on one) that such a mod can be fitted to a series II.
https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/ware...d-daimler.html
No doubt it can be done cheaper!

 

That's pretty much what I would love to do. Was hoping someone had done it already and I could school off of them?

 

Bill:

Why?

As a challenge? Or do you have an excess oil temperature issue.

Either a good reason!!!

Carl

 

I do have a problem with my 4.2 running warm. Pretty much only when the A/C is on. I'm not sure what "running warm" is to answer your next question. But I am in the middle of a project where I'm installing a digital temperature gauge in the car's ash tray. With the sender in the upper hose of the radiator. Then I can really answer that question. So I'm doing some preliminary research on an oil cooler thinking that may knock down the temp.

 

Interesting project.

Might look in to a way of plumbing in a guage for oil temperature. Aye, IC engines rely to varying degrees on oil temperature as a means of control of operating temperature.

If the transmission is an auto box and relies on the radiator in some measure to regulate temperature, that is a place to look for an over heat issue..

Some engines are designed to run hot. MY LT1 for example. 200 F is fine...

Carl

 

I've had the transmission cooler to the radiator shop and it's been boiled and cleaned. It is the one pictured below. I have a BW66 3-speed which shifts great and I use the recommended ATF in it. I really don't think the temperature of the transmission is the culprit.

 

How warm is "warm", and under what conditions (besides the AC being on)? City stop-go traffic in 100ºF ambient temps? Highway cruising in 50ºF ambient temps? Or?

Cheers
DD

 

is the car carbed or fuel injected? in tropical climates people remove the thermostats in carbed engines and engines run cooler. Heaters are not affected once coolant is heated.
Back in 1970, the thermostat in my twin SU carbs MG was removed and the engine ran fine. In fact it ran better without the thermostat.

 

Bill:

The engine and transmission are cooled by the radiator. so, transmission temperature has something to do with what the guage on the fascia reports.

And, as engine oil is in contact with the engine block, some temperature s transferred there. So, engine oil temperature is to be considered.

it is all a matter of heat transfer. The radiator being the "chief" element. But, as Doug mentions, ambient temperature plays a part. Think, coolant temperature at 200 F and ambient at 100 F A formidable job for the radiator. Then add in oil and ATF temps.

But, aye a real number of the coolant is key.

Jose
I'm not a fan of running sans thermostats. As you said, the car will run just fine. :Actually not quite, excess wear...

Carl

 

To answer Doug's question, I didn't run the car enough in the hot weather because it cooled off here in FL like a switch was thrown. And... I'm accumulating parts to get a digital temp gauge inside the car, so I know exactly what I'm talking about. So far it's all been the analog gauge which is like looking out the window to see what people are wearing to guess the temperature. More to come......

 

One of the early thing I did when I got my car was buy an infrared heat reader (point the laser to what you are measuring and temp displayed on screen)

Had the same concerns about the accuracy of the gauge, but it was spot on. Handy little tool to check cooling systems and brakes.

 

Yes, I agree. Wanna try something cool with it. Shoot the clouds, then shoot the blue sky! I use it to sense when a frying pan is ready.

 

The Series III setup will likely give you the best results for the least work. It might fit using all the stock bits. I have the SIII setup on my '72 XJ6. I could not use the stock SIII pipe/hoses and cooler because they position the cooler where my car has limited room due to thicker radiator. I had to locate a cooler behind the grille and use hoses instead. I took the opportunity to install a Mocal Oil Thermostat to limit flow until fluid is warm.

 

Very interesting! I have a 1975 SII 4.2L block. Anybody know if David's solution of using an SIII filter housing will bolt onto my block? And does that filter housing have the In & Out ports in it?

Bill

 

I forgot to mention that I'm using a SIII engine in that car, so your question on fitment is a good one. I'd hope the block casting would allow the SIII oil filter assembly on either a SI or SII block.