Hey guys, fellow user sarc and are starting back up out coupe build and have some questions regarding the oil cooler lines.

both engines are 76 v12's we are at a loss on which versions we have if its full flow or bypass. I remember reading someplace that all the pre-he were full flow. "might have just been the xjs"

any ideas are appreciated.

 

All my V12's, PreHE and HE, Sedan and XJS, were ByPass oil cooler.

They had the single steel pipe from the oil filter housing to the front LH corner of the engine. Also, the return from the cooler core went into the alloy upper sump plate via an elbow etc at the front centre of said pan.

My understanding, and reading the parts manuals:

The full flow had 2 steel pipes down the LH side, a different oil filter housing to accommodate 2 pipes, and NO elbow at the front of the alloy upper pan.

I reckon there is more to it than that, but that is a quickie way to tell the difference.

 

Thanks Grant!!

Attempting to disconnect them from the oil cooler this weekend.

 

That will be a HOOT and a half.

I reckon I will hear you from here.

 

I "wonder" if they are essential.


The LT1 GM V8 in my car has provisions for an oil cooler. Not used in the donor car. Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. A really big car.


A bloc between the engine and oil filter attachment point. Plugs in that bloc as to where the cooler lines would attach. As I see it, not full flow in series, but only partial in parallel.


The chassis and power train also used in commercial application. A mechanical fan to assist the Efans!!!


Carl

 

Well I did it. Mind u the oil cooler with hoses attached, I removed from the engine months ago.

well I was prepared for hell. and what do ya know!!
I stuck the cooler in the vice prayed to the jag gods. sprayed some anti seize, stuck on the wrench, smacked with the mallet and it just started to unscrew. this happened on all three, left side and the metal pipe that goes to the oil filter.
I couldn't believe it.

now its off to a shop to see If I can get hoes made.

 

Well done.

There will be pay back for this easy repair, you know that of course??

Good luck.

 

oh yes I know.

@Grant im going to replace a bunch of gaskets, bottom oil pan, cam covers ,water pump. as I put the engine back together, what do you recommend? I was just going to use that red Loctite for the cam covers and I have a black gasket for the lower oil pan I got from xks. also the green gasket that came with the new water pump.

 

Shawn,

I have done away with near all gaskets a very long time ago.

The lower sump, and upper sump are RTV sealed only. Guide studs and time for the RTV to set before the final snug up. NO oil leaks at all.

The camcovers are the same, and the gaskets are gone, but the "D" seals are retained, with a good coating of RTV on each. Same thing, guide studs etc, and NO oil leaks.

Water pump, had a gasket, fitted it, leaked, bugga, so off again, cleaned, and RTV sealed.

Trans pan, NO hgasket, just guide studs and RTV, and those damn leaks have ceased.

RTV is tricky, and TOO much is worse than NO gasket at all, so take the time to understand the procedure, or ask, and I will "write up" my method.

Loctite has a tutorial on their website that I used back in the day when it was a brochure at point of sale.

 

I concur with Grant about the RTV. Had nothing but problems with oil seeping THROUGH gaskets. Not over or under. The RTV does away with that problem. As Grant says... follow the procedure on the tube - put on one surface only, sock down hand tight, an hour later torque to specs, trim 24 hours later.

 

excellent!!
rtv it is. I got two little things of loctite 518. im assuming I can use that on everything?
and grant who doesn't like a standard write up from "Grant Francis" YES we would love and method

 

Here ya go.

RTV as a gasket replacement.doc

 

Grant:


Very well written. A great document for my extensive collection of
Jaguar lore


And, yes, I've found RTV to perform as well as or better than paper gaskets.


1. Decades ago, I changed the thermostat in the 304 ci IHC V8 that powered my Scout II. An odd stacking of cast iron "layers" that resisted alignment including the paper gasket. Swabbed the offending part in RTV. Buttoned it up. Worked a charm.


2. Circa 2002, I prepared the LT1 engine for installation in my 83.
Stock iron exhaust manifolds were "rear dump" and not compatible with the steering. Ram horn manifolds with a center dump came with the "package". I used 02 safe RTV. in lieu of a gasket. Much easier to install and still doing just fine. No leaks.


My compliments. I like the stud use for guiding the parts together.
I've made use of it from time to time in various critters.


Carl