rear wheel bearing job: easy?
#1
rear wheel bearing job: easy?
Hi all, the car has been fantastic of late but horrible road noise now at speed with rear wheel moving when I tested for that.
I haven't done this job before. I see SNG has a kit for the wheel bearing replacement.
When I look at the manuals the removal of the rear hub seems pretty involved with some important measurements to get right once new bearings in situ.
I'll have a friend to help but is there special stuff we'd need to know/tools, etc?
Given the level of knowledge on here I know a number of you are likely to have done this before.
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
I haven't done this job before. I see SNG has a kit for the wheel bearing replacement.
When I look at the manuals the removal of the rear hub seems pretty involved with some important measurements to get right once new bearings in situ.
I'll have a friend to help but is there special stuff we'd need to know/tools, etc?
Given the level of knowledge on here I know a number of you are likely to have done this before.
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
#2
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#3
Cool! Thank you, Doug.
Am I right that a full rebuild of the hub might not be necessary and that it's maybe (!) a matter of the bearings/seals only: or is it really a case of in for a penny in for a pound and doing the whole job as per the video?
Obviously, a lot of time, but each step of the actual job itself does not look horrible. Patience and being methodical, certainly necessary.
Am I right that a full rebuild of the hub might not be necessary and that it's maybe (!) a matter of the bearings/seals only: or is it really a case of in for a penny in for a pound and doing the whole job as per the video?
Obviously, a lot of time, but each step of the actual job itself does not look horrible. Patience and being methodical, certainly necessary.
#4
Am I right that a full rebuild of the hub might not be necessary and that it's maybe (!) a matter of the bearings/seals only: or is it really a case of in for a penny in for a pound and doing the whole job as per the video?
Of course, this being Jaguar everything can be adjusted with shims. What I found was that when I reassembled with the existing spacer the bearing clearance was correct. This is because the bearings are made to very tight tolerances, so the spacer is essentially to cater for variations in machining of the hub carriers. I suspect you'll find this the case yourself, for both sets of bearings, (assuming you refurb the whole hub carrier).
Jaguar never spent a cent on modern production machinery, as Ford found out when they sent an engineer to inspect their facilities. This was after they'd bought the company, the idiots !! They had to spend almost the US defense budget to put matters right.
#6
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Fraser:
The Ford guys might not have been as dumb as it seems!
They wanted the name!! They had the bucks and know how to build cars.
The tale is told that Henry, the "deuce" wanted to buy Ferrari.
Enzo turned him down. In a pique, he assigned a force to build the GT40 and beat Enzo at Le Mans!!
The rear hubs bear a certain resemblance to the front hubs, but, it goes on from there. Much more complex. Added are an active part of the suspension and the transmittal of torque, and each quite variable!! Amazing engineering. They have long lives in spite of a primitive means of lubrication.
I share your opinion about packing the space between the bearings.
Carl
The Ford guys might not have been as dumb as it seems!
They wanted the name!! They had the bucks and know how to build cars.
The tale is told that Henry, the "deuce" wanted to buy Ferrari.
Enzo turned him down. In a pique, he assigned a force to build the GT40 and beat Enzo at Le Mans!!
The rear hubs bear a certain resemblance to the front hubs, but, it goes on from there. Much more complex. Added are an active part of the suspension and the transmittal of torque, and each quite variable!! Amazing engineering. They have long lives in spite of a primitive means of lubrication.
I share your opinion about packing the space between the bearings.
Carl
#7
Thanks all for your suggestions, leads, and encouragement!
I have ordered the parts but another question:
Is the Churchill hub extractor essential for the job?
I can borrow one from the Jaguar Club of North America, which is fantastic, but also thinking others must have got the job done without this rare/expensive tool. On their website, XKS says it is essential.
Just trying to having everything lined up before beginning. Thanks for any further thoughts,
Graham
I have ordered the parts but another question:
Is the Churchill hub extractor essential for the job?
I can borrow one from the Jaguar Club of North America, which is fantastic, but also thinking others must have got the job done without this rare/expensive tool. On their website, XKS says it is essential.
Just trying to having everything lined up before beginning. Thanks for any further thoughts,
Graham
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#10
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Sometimes you don't need a puller at all. A couple modest whacks with a rubber mallet might do the trick.
Or not.
Depends on the amount of rust and how long it has been since they were last removed.
Not sure about older models but the factory used Loc-Tite on the splines on the Series III cars.
Cheers
DD
Or not.
Depends on the amount of rust and how long it has been since they were last removed.
Not sure about older models but the factory used Loc-Tite on the splines on the Series III cars.
Cheers
DD
#11
#12
I loctited the splines on my series 3 two nights ago, that was the reason for taking it apart after fitting new tyres and reinstalling the wheels i had a tiny bit of play in both rear wheels so pulled it apart and cleaned the splines and loctited back together.
The haynes manual makes it look alot harder
The haynes manual makes it look alot harder
#13
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Don't read Haynes ! Good to prop things up for proper reading.
Right after I got my car, I spotted it at a parts store. Yahoo, that I just what I need. Wrong, utter confusion. Vestiges of that remain.
The information is good, it is the organization that confuses. Copied from Jaguar stuff. Originaly for S1 and S2 cars. S3 data stuffed in.
The electric schematics are good, if one is an EE ! For the great unwashed the S57 publication is far superior.
Weed Wacker purred, got more of the middle "pasture" under a modicum of control. Jaguar purred, errands dome.
R & R today. Indy 500. DIY BBQ chicken wings, side or two, adult beverage....
Life is good.
Carl
Carl
Right after I got my car, I spotted it at a parts store. Yahoo, that I just what I need. Wrong, utter confusion. Vestiges of that remain.
The information is good, it is the organization that confuses. Copied from Jaguar stuff. Originaly for S1 and S2 cars. S3 data stuffed in.
The electric schematics are good, if one is an EE ! For the great unwashed the S57 publication is far superior.
Weed Wacker purred, got more of the middle "pasture" under a modicum of control. Jaguar purred, errands dome.
R & R today. Indy 500. DIY BBQ chicken wings, side or two, adult beverage....
Life is good.
Carl
Carl
#14
Is the Churchill hub extractor essential for the job?
Well it may be needed if Jaguar Loctited the splines on the drive shaft. This suspension system had been in production for decades when some owners of quite late XJ6s complained of a clicking noise from the rear. This was found to be the splines on the drive shaft where they went into the hub. So Jaguar started to put Loctite on about 3/4" of the splines on assembly. This is mentioned in the "big green Workshop Manual" which I had.
Now let me say that when I removed my hub carriers, to replace the bearings they came off the drive shaft with just a light hand pull. Clearly there was no Loctite on my 1980 car ! When I assembled it, I put a bit of Coppaslip on the splines and thought no more of it. Then, one day years later, I was going very slowly over a very rough track and heard the "clicks". I never heard them again !
Life with a Jaguar is full of little things like this ! The factory engineers were expert at doing little spatchcocks to sort out problems that later on gave grief to workshop mechanics. They had to do them because Jaguar would never spend a cent on machinery or better engineering techniques, they just never had the money,
#15
#16
#17
Replacing wheel bearing: falling at first hurdle
Hi all, a post back I got loads of great advice on replacing the rear hub bearings on a S1.
Only now getting to the job. Just as well I have four clear days because...
Car carefully raised, got the wheel off, split pin out... and now the castellated nut. How do I get purchase on it? Hub turns as I do so.
I'm sure there is a simple trick to this: meant to wedge the hub?
First time doing this job so likely more questions on the way :/
Best to all,
Graham
Only now getting to the job. Just as well I have four clear days because...
Car carefully raised, got the wheel off, split pin out... and now the castellated nut. How do I get purchase on it? Hub turns as I do so.
I'm sure there is a simple trick to this: meant to wedge the hub?
First time doing this job so likely more questions on the way :/
Best to all,
Graham
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