Removing rear door panel on 87 VDP
#1
Removing rear door panel on 87 VDP
My right rear window doesn’t go down. The front window works. I tried the front and back switches and neither work so it must be the motor. I researched how to remove the door panel and thought it would be easy. I’ve removed door panels on my XJS’s before. Piece of cake. I removed the big screw inside the light and removed the middle screw below the arm rest. I next pulled the plastic clips around the edges and thought the panel would lift off. But something near the center wasn’t pulling away and I didn’t want to force it so I stopped. Have I missed something? I know some models have an ashtray you need to remove and there is an additional screw to take out but mine doesn’t have an ashtray. Have I missed something? Thank you,
Danny
Danny
#3
In addition to what Alyn says, you usually have to give the armrest top a great thump to get it to move backwards to reveal the mounting screws, and further: there is a very robust tab in the middle of the panel, fitted into a horizontal slot in the inner metal door panel. To release this tab you must pull the entire panel UP.
Finally, the chances of the window problem being caused by the motor are very, very small. It is still going to be a matter of dirty switch contacts. Have you swapped the connector from a no-functioning window on to a known good switch? If the window now moves you have isolated the problem to a faulty switch. Take the switch apart and clean the contacts.
Finally, the chances of the window problem being caused by the motor are very, very small. It is still going to be a matter of dirty switch contacts. Have you swapped the connector from a no-functioning window on to a known good switch? If the window now moves you have isolated the problem to a faulty switch. Take the switch apart and clean the contacts.
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XJDanny (07-31-2018)
#4
Alyn and Sov,
Thank you for this helpful information. I didn’t know the door handle was in two parts. It looks like one piece to me.
I’ve heard the window switches are usually the culprit when windows don’t work. But since neither the front or rear switch made the window go down, I assumed it was the window. I’ll try using a switch that works and test that before I try removing the door panel again.
Thank you for this helpful information. I didn’t know the door handle was in two parts. It looks like one piece to me.
I’ve heard the window switches are usually the culprit when windows don’t work. But since neither the front or rear switch made the window go down, I assumed it was the window. I’ll try using a switch that works and test that before I try removing the door panel again.
#5
I found several posts about removing the window switches up front but I haven’t found a post about how to remove the switches in the backseat. How are these switches removed?
Also, if the switches aren’t the issue then it sounds like the next likely cause is my window motor is frozen from lack of use. Is there a trick to unfreezing it? Do I just spray it everywhere with a lubricant and it should become unstuck?
Also, if the switches aren’t the issue then it sounds like the next likely cause is my window motor is frozen from lack of use. Is there a trick to unfreezing it? Do I just spray it everywhere with a lubricant and it should become unstuck?
#6
The rear switches are mounted on a small console; this console is held in place by one screw on each side. Move the front seats forward to expose the screws on the console; remove the screws and pull the small console away. Disconnect the switch connectors. The removal of the switches themselves is by pressing the tabs at the switch base. To dismantle the switches use a fine screwdriver, levering at each side of the toggle until it comes apart. Note how the switch is constructed and watch for small springs. Clean the contacts in the base and on the copper strip. The copper strips and the toggle are easily put back in place. Done. As I wrote previously, the motor itself is very rarely, almost never the problem.
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XJDanny (08-01-2018)
#7
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#8
In addition to what Alyn says, you usually have to give the armrest top a great thump to get it to move backwards to reveal the mounting screws, and further: there is a very robust tab in the middle of the panel, fitted into a horizontal slot in the inner metal door panel. To release this tab you must pull the entire panel UP.
Finally, the chances of the window problem being caused by the motor are very, very small. It is still going to be a matter of dirty switch contacts. Have you swapped the connector from a no-functioning window on to a known good switch? If the window now moves you have isolated the problem to a faulty switch. Take the switch apart and clean the contacts.
Finally, the chances of the window problem being caused by the motor are very, very small. It is still going to be a matter of dirty switch contacts. Have you swapped the connector from a no-functioning window on to a known good switch? If the window now moves you have isolated the problem to a faulty switch. Take the switch apart and clean the contacts.
Regarding the window switches vs. the window motor, I moved a working switch to that window and it still doesn’t work. So it’s definately a frozen motor or a bad motor. Now if I could only get the panel off I think I could figure it out. Grrr...
#10
Danny: those rearpanels,if they have neverbeen removed, area bit of a bear. You WILL be able to get it off (one thing: there is a screw at the very bottom of the map pocket - did you remove that?). Once the armrest is removed, and all the plasticclips around the sides and bottom, grasp the panel at the top/side of the upper blackpartion. Now rock the panel side to side as you lever it upwards - this is to release that tabe from its holder on the door itself. This rocking will eventually free the tab (it is quite a long tab!). To replace the anel it helps a great deal a) to have the window down (!) and b) to have bent the holder for that tab outwards to ease slipping it in.
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XJDanny (08-04-2018)
#11
I think it is worth noting for the future that the front and rear armrests are not setup the same. As I recall the back armrests just pop down into place, but the with the front one part goes down while the other moves to the side, so it requires more of a twisting motion.
check for 12v going to the motor from the switch and 12v to the switch from the fuseblock. When my XJS motor "died" the motor itself still worked, its just the gear was worn and the worm gear would walk off the cog.
check for 12v going to the motor from the switch and 12v to the switch from the fuseblock. When my XJS motor "died" the motor itself still worked, its just the gear was worn and the worm gear would walk off the cog.
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XJDanny (08-07-2018)
#12
I think it is worth noting for the future that the front and rear armrests are not setup the same. As I recall the back armrests just pop down into place, but the with the front one part goes down while the other moves to the side, so it requires more of a twisting motion.
check for 12v going to the motor from the switch and 12v to the switch from the fuseblock. When my XJS motor "died" the motor itself still worked, its just the gear was worn and the worm gear would walk off the cog.
check for 12v going to the motor from the switch and 12v to the switch from the fuseblock. When my XJS motor "died" the motor itself still worked, its just the gear was worn and the worm gear would walk off the cog.
This is helpful because I plan to install new speakers so I’ll be removing all the panels. I’ll lube all the door locks while I’m at it. The first thing I will check for the window will be the power to the motor. If the motor is really bad, I’ve heard early 70’s Cadillacs used the same motor and they’re super cheap. Maybe I will try that route first because they’re cheap from a junkyard.
Danny
#13
I think it is worth noting for the future that the front and rear armrests are not setup the same. As I recall the back armrests just pop down into place, but the with the front one part goes down while the other moves to the side, so it requires more of a twisting motion..
The Sovereign differs from the Vanden Plas (and Daimler Double Six) in that the VDP/Daimler cars have a stitched leather top while the Sovereign unit is vinyl. But the structure is the same, as described above. This is entirely different from the XJ6 armrest configuation.
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