replacing the distributor on my 86 xj6 series III
#1
replacing the distributor on my 86 xj6 series III
basically... where do I start, I've never done this. I have the new distributor, I got the air filter housing out of the way, I removed the cap leaving the sparkplug wires intact so when I'm done I can just snap it back on without worrying about the firing order.
I'm guessing I can just find tdc yank the old one out and put the new one in, it looks like it can only go in one way, but I don't want to break anything or throw the timing off. what is the proper procedure?
I'm guessing I can just find tdc yank the old one out and put the new one in, it looks like it can only go in one way, but I don't want to break anything or throw the timing off. what is the proper procedure?
#2
distributor
It has been a while since I did that, but I would mark the position of the distributor body to the block, and mark the position of the rotor button to the distributor. Is it spiral gear drive still?
Not that it has much to do with this, but Jaguar number the XK motors from the firewall end, caught me once.
Not that it has much to do with this, but Jaguar number the XK motors from the firewall end, caught me once.
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stellar-warior (03-25-2013)
#3
As fred said, mark the position of the housing and the rotor. There's a horseshoe shaped clamping plate bolted around the base, into the block with one bolt. The bolt is a little bit of a pain to get to and a little PB Blaster soak of the base of the distributor couldn't hurt if yours is as "one" with the block as mine was.
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stellar-warior (03-25-2013)
#5
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stellar-warior (03-26-2013)
#7
well i got the old distributor off and the new one installed easily enough. I was careful to put the distributor and rotor back in the same position as well as the spark-plug wires, but alas she wont fire up, i'm sure its a timing issue. could anyone be kind enough to explain to me how to set the proper timing. sorry i'm not quite a mechanic, i learn fast and am somewhat handy, but just haven't been at this long and have a lot to learn, i appreciate any and all help greatly!
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#8
ok, I figured out why its not starting, there is no spark. I have power at the coil but the wires don't go straight from the coil to the distributor there is a box between them they both plug into, and that seems to be where I am losing power, but I don't know what this part is or what it does. can I bypass and hook the distributor directly to the coil?
#9
I got it started! it fired up faster and easier than ever! I didn't even hear the starter engage. I just turned the key and VVVRRROOOMMMM!!!
I also looked and saw the part I was talking about is the electronic ignition amplifier, seems that was my problem all along, because I bypassed it and hooked directly up to the coil and bang!
my question now is this: should I order a new electronic ignition amplifier, if so what is the best one to get? also, what would be the effect of continuing to run straight off the coil?
I also looked and saw the part I was talking about is the electronic ignition amplifier, seems that was my problem all along, because I bypassed it and hooked directly up to the coil and bang!
my question now is this: should I order a new electronic ignition amplifier, if so what is the best one to get? also, what would be the effect of continuing to run straight off the coil?
#10
Don't understand how this can work. Unless the distributor came off a series 2 or earlier with the contact points inside.??? But I'm prepared to be enlightened!!
I'm not familiar with the series 3 with electronic ignition but if it's similar to most other types it will have a hall/magnetic effect low current sensor in the distributor which triggers the external ignition module which provides a higher current pulse to the coil (-ve).
If it is a series 3 distributor then I wouldn't run it without the ignition amplifier.
I'm not familiar with the series 3 with electronic ignition but if it's similar to most other types it will have a hall/magnetic effect low current sensor in the distributor which triggers the external ignition module which provides a higher current pulse to the coil (-ve).
If it is a series 3 distributor then I wouldn't run it without the ignition amplifier.
Last edited by anjum; 03-28-2013 at 08:39 PM.
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stellar-warior (03-30-2013)
#11
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I got it started! it fired up faster and easier than ever! I didn't even hear the starter engage. I just turned the key and VVVRRROOOMMMM!!!
I also looked and saw the part I was talking about is the electronic ignition amplifier, seems that was my problem all along, because I bypassed it and hooked directly up to the coil and bang!
my question now is this: should I order a new electronic ignition amplifier, if so what is the best one to get? also, what would be the effect of continuing to run straight off the coil?
I also looked and saw the part I was talking about is the electronic ignition amplifier, seems that was my problem all along, because I bypassed it and hooked directly up to the coil and bang!
my question now is this: should I order a new electronic ignition amplifier, if so what is the best one to get? also, what would be the effect of continuing to run straight off the coil?
I'm a bit surprised as well. How exactly did you bypass the amp?
Anyhow, you can buy a complete amp new or used but in almost all cases it's the module inside that fails. It's a common GM module, Delco part number D1906. Easy to repace.
Cheers
DD
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stellar-warior (03-30-2013)
#12
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stellar-warior (03-30-2013)
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