Aww, That's Purdy!!
(';')

 

ohhh a Lift ! yes a language barrier I suppose, as I think of a Hoist as a tool to raise and pull engines out of a car.

 

I got mine from Moss Motors last year. They had an add for them. They looked so pretty I just had to do it. In the add they were nice and silver, NEW, not rebuilt. Shiny silver painted, all new fittings incl. the cross pipes on the rears. As soon as I recieved them they were degreased - there was no grease on them, then a 2K clear coat - 4 coats. They are still on my shelf and they look so great. Will go in around March. At $150 each, how could I refuse? Got a set of front and rear flex hoses also. Love Moss.

 

Jose, they look identical to what I bought. But mine came from Moss, and were individually wrapped and put in a box. Can't wait to install mine. And yes, I will be dropping the cage.

 

Jose,
I feel like I'm inflicting pain into an only mildly painful job, but there is another consideration worth looking at. The calipers are not self-centering and do not adapt to the position of the rotor like all (?) more modern vehicles. They bolt firmly to the diff housing and the rotors bolt firmly to the axle shafts. The rotors should be positioned in the middle of the caliper opening so that when the brakes are applied both pads touch the rotor and apply pressure at the same time. If the calipers are not centered, the pad on the nearer side will make contact and rub one side before pressure can equalize to the pad on the other side. Procedure is outlined in Shop Manual. I would get your feeler gauge out and see what the clearance is currently (I had to move shims around to get .067/.067 on one caliper and .060/.063 on the other) and pay attention to the amount of wear on both pads to see if, and how far, the alignment is off. To correct it, the rotor needs to be moved in or out. You could center the caliper by shimming it, but only if out is the direction you need to go, you can't move the caliper closer to the diff housing. But playing with the rotor shims affect the wheel camber unless you just move them from one side of the rotor to the other, which will just move the rotor, not the overall distance from axle shaft to wheel hub, thus affecting camber.

If you do check the centering clearances, dropping the cage or finding a rack (lift) becomes even more attractive.

And the caveat: Others will chime in, but these are just my opinions and experience's. I'm almost positive if your car stops to your satisfaction before you replace the calipers, it will stop OK afterwards. I tend to be a bit **** about mechanics and probably have too much time on my hands.

Dave

 

You can get new calipers from Rockauto for $73. I myself have not had great experiences with Moss ( or their predecessor, XK's Unlimited)

 

I've used the A-Premium calipers front and rear with no problems, 7yrs in on my 86 xk6.

 

Don't complain Jose and happy New Year.
I have to do this job twice. You may remember the 1988 Red XJS convertible when you were at my home. On that car I rounded out one of the bleeders so I was unable to bleed the brake on the driver side. I just bled it at the brake pipe. Couple of years later I bought another XJS with a bad engine and I also have to do the rear calipers on it.
Dropping the rear subframe on the XJ6 is the same as the XJS.
I just received 4 new rear calipers from Rock Auto so in the coming weeks I will be dropping the subframe on the newly acquired XJS to refurbish it and when I am done I will do the same on the Red XJS.
Also, when you moved your car from my home I gave you my transmission jack to transport the transmission, so you have the jack to safely drop the subframe.
I read LnR's post on doing the job without dropping the subframe but that is not for me. I don't care to lay on my back for that long. It is easier to do the job with the subframe off the car.
If you plan on doing it without removing the subframe, make sure you have all the tools needed with you while you are under the car. It is a pain to need a tool and you have to get out from under the car to get it then get back under the car. This may have to happen more than once.
I am aware that you do not have the space to pull the subframe sideways so you will have to raise the car higher to get it out from the rear of the car. Even though I have the space to do mine, I am doing the following: I am using a piece of 2x6 plank across the width of the car from jack point to jack point with 2 jack stands to support the car. If you need help, call me and I will help you through the steps required to drop the subframe. It is not as difficult as it seems. Safety is the main issue .
Good Luck.

 

^^
I wouldn't do it that way again, I tell ya!
Of course, having done it once, should be good for another 30 years.
(';')

 

Not at my age. If I were a lot younger I would attempt to do it on the car.

 

I rebuilt the IRS on my XJ-S on my parents' gravel driveway. So if you've got something that resembles a garage with a concrete floor you're well on the way to success! I was intimidated at the start, but the brakes and shocks needed to be done and that was the way to do them. Once you start its pretty straightforward, but if you don't start it won't happen on its own. So dive in!