I can't seem to find how the hell i get to my rear brake calipers . . . i need to rekit them/ get new ones but no idea where to start what kind of job it is and the best way to do it and any special tools i need apart from sockets screw drivers

 

Many, many different methods will flow thick and fast.

I have tried the undo, with the handbrake calipers wired out of the way up top, and dragging them out the front opening. Do-able, but what a task. You cant really see what you are doing. then you got to get it all back together again.

That was years ago.

I then decided that taking the whole cradle out was not that hard, and its NOT. On the sedans the exhaust is the most difficult due to its exit thru the body at the tail pipe.

The cradle can be out in under 2 hours, then all is visible, especially those special handbrake caliper bolts.

There are always other items that need attention, and with the cradle out, again, it is so easy to complete.

 

by cradle you mean the back subframe? is there any diagrams or anything out there to help me take it out or is it all rather simple undo bolts and thats it? i have no exhausts well i have 8 sticking out the bonnet but the exhausts in the back are gone so wont have that trouble

 

Relatively simple then.

A suitable assistant will be required when lowering and refitting the unit, so find him/her first, and the beer of course.

Support the car WELL, as high as possible. I use HD safety stands with a 20mm length of pipe welded to the top plate, and that pipe slides neatly over the jacking pins, the car simply cannot slide off.

Wheels off.

A large Hi-lift floor jack.

Support the subframe (cradle), and undo the propshaft bolts, the handbrake cable, the brake hose, and the spring that may be on the RH side supporting the cable. release the trailing arms at the body pod, they may be rusted, so spray that area today, and keep spraying them regularly.

With the weight taken on the jack, towards the snout of the diff is the balance point as such, undo the 8 bolts that hold the 4 mounts to the body. Some knocking out with a hammer and drift may be required, but they should just slide out.

Now with the assistant holding one of the hubs, lower it slowly, it may require "jiggling" a tad to free from the chassis rails. Once it frees lower it QUICK, as it may overbalance, and it will be tooooooo heavy to contain, so dont even try. Let it go.

Refit is the reverse, and since its out, getting it balanced on the jack first will be a simple, safe process.

 

Thanks alot lucky for me my driveshaft isnt even in yet either picking that up saturday so i might take the subframe and sort all that out while im at it ill let you know how i get on lol what should i do while the subframe is out before i put it back in? very tight on money so just the main things that i can only fix while its out

was also thinking, while its out if i can find a cheap one i might replace my diff with a diff from a 2.8lt one because there lower ratio? if thats right would the diff be the same and bolt in and out? also how can i tell the ratio on my current diff? i want low as possible because i have a 3speed auto and i want to get the best acceleration i can get

 

OK.

Output shaft seals leak, get on the brakes, the rest is basic disaster. Not super expensive, but the output stubs require dismantling to do said seals.

The OE rotors were a sandwich style rotor, and they seperate and fail with age.

Handbrake calipers seize, so dismantle and regrease is in order.

The 4 special bolts that secure the cast inner pivot brackets to the side of the diff casing come loose, coz the shims fall out, so sorting that costs nothing, just time. The 4 on top are generally not an issue, but check them anyway.

Other things like u/joints, and shockers can all be done with the cradle in-situ.

 

thanks alot thats very helpful =]

 

When the calipers in my S3 went bad, I did a lot of research and thinking and parts shopping. Then, I decided my old bones were not up to the task. My rearmost exhaust parts were welded in place by a PO. Well, I could cut them loose and reweld and or replace. But, getting on the deck and backup is a task in itself. So, I found a mobile Mechanic. I got the work place ready. He showed up late to annouce that he changed his mind. But, he had found a shop for me at the same price. They did it. Solved, all is well.

Now, in earlier years, I have removed a few Corvair engines. A somewaht similar issue.
I used a section of 2 x 12 plank under the engine trans axle. Then, a trolley and bottle jack. It made the assembly much more stable and manageable to lower and than to lift in to place.

When I planned on doin g it my slef, i was thinking in situ and removal. Not resolved as to which.

Carl