When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have been doing some spring cleaning on my Series 2 XJ12 front end (new top and bottom ball joints, track rod ends, steering rack gaiters, brake caliper pistons/seals, front pads, brake hoses etc etc etc....)
I have now noticed that all 4 of the front crossmember to chassis rubber mounts are cracking and looking in need of replacement.
I was wondering if I could support the engine and disconnect the steering column joint and lower the crossmember an end at a time to extract and replace the mounts?
I thought I would lower the front end first, allowing the knackered rear mounts to flex enough to access the front round mounts. Then jack it back up and put the bolts through the front mounts without fully tightening. Then lower the rear to access the rear mounts, allowing the crossmember to pivot on its front mounts....
It sounds theoretically possible.... Anyone tried it?
Its a V12, so radiator out is required. Access to the 2 bolts that "clamp" the round mounts into the snouts is impossible with that radiator in there. OK, someone, somewhere, has probably done it with the radiator in there, but I have never been successful. The engine oil cooler is the main culprit.
Remove said pinch bolts.
Raise the car as safely as you are able. Bear in mind some jiggly and pushing will take place.
A good reliable floor jack, a spare safety stand (just in case) to catch the cradle if the jack drops, and take the weight, now slide the 2 big pins out, lower it JUST ENOUGH to tap the round mounts out, and the new in. Raise it back up and slide the pins back in, NO nuts for now. PLENTY OF NEVER SIEZE is a good idea on those pins.
Take the weight again, undo the 2 nuts on the rear "V" mounts, lower the unit until you can get at the 4 bolts that hold the "V" to the chassis rails.
Now the rear 2 bolts are EASY, the front 2 are a MONGREL, and British engineering at its absolute best. I usually get them from over the front of the subframe. The RH is not too bad. The LH is well, unprintable, and I usuallty remove the power steer cooler simply for access. On cars that I have removed the cooler permenantly, that is one less task.
Refitting:
Take the 2 new "V" mounts, and SLOT one of the holes on each, by basically hacksawing down the front to "open" the hole into a slot. Refit the 2 front bolts into the chassis thread, slide the new mounts in, fit the rear bolts as normal. Trying to hold the "V" in place and refit the front bolts with the room available is NOT going to happen. Now raise the subframe and juggle the studs through the holes. Loosely fit the nuts, and reach back in and tighten the 2 front bolts, then the rear, then raise it 100% and tighten the 2 nuts.
Now refit the front pin tow plates, washers and nuts and secure corectly, then refit the pinch bolts, and the rest of the removed items.
Excellent step by step summary Grant! I really appreciate that.
I felt sure it must be possible, given a bit of care and patience. And I will definitely stay sober....
When you say that the engine stays as it is, does that mean that you don't need to undo the mounts and support it in situ from above when you lower the crossmember? Just let it carefully come down still attached to the crossmember?
Apart from separating the steering UJ, is there anything else I need to consider undoing?
Thanks again, Rowland.
Last edited by rowland; Mar 14, 2015 at 06:50 AM.
Reason: edited for grammar/spelling
Yes, the engine can stay attached, as you are really not moving it that far at that particular point.
The steering shaft/rack/hoses etc can all stay attached, again, the travel distance will not go anywhere near max limits. If you really want to, remove the cotter bolt and slip the splines, but I dont do that.
Last one I did was an XJ-S, same thing, and the fronts took 10 hours inc rad out for cleaning, and ALL belts and hoses changed.
The rears took about 8 hours due to those dumb front bolts.
My XJ-S cracked a new mount a few months after fitting, and that slotted hole meant that I only had to loosen that front bolt, remove the rear 1 and slide it out. All done in 1 hour, including drinks.
NO power steer cooler makes for a LOT of access room, trust me.
My mechanical ability goes as far as checking oil and tires {probably shouldn't have jag }but this is 2nd one ,just had had poly bushes put in front crossmember plus power steering, by local sevice centre $800 plus being without "Precious for 3 weeks
My mechanical ability goes as far as checking oil and tires {probably shouldn't have jag }but this is 2nd one ,just had had poly bushes put in front crossmember plus power steering, by local sevice centre $800 plus being without "Precious for 3 weeks
*WOW!!**Only* three weeks and $800?!
I don't think I could even have taken Nix to the Jaguar dealer 100 miles away and had that done in 3 weeks! Certainly not for the mere pittance of $800!!
There's no 'qualified" mechanic anywhere around that I've even Heard of with the necessary skills for such a job no matter the money! The mere Mention of working on a Jaguar suspension sends them reeling backward. Wusses!
Besides that, I'm not sure I would trust Anyone with my car out of my sight for Three Weeks!!
Thanks lnrB
You have confirmed my stupidity, but i was desperate,my workshop manual was returned in dogeared condition, but they put it all together correctly, new busches certainly tightened it up, Precious ran beautifully on the 120 k run i did this afternoon and didnt wander at all.
Last edited by DarrellE; Aug 15, 2015 at 05:55 AM.
Series 2 Front Crossmember Bushes / Mounts?
