I have a slight leak of ATF out of the Steering Rack Grease Nipple, which I do not understand. Also, I cannot find anywhere in the Maintenance Manual guidance as to how often to insert grease in this nipple. And why should ATF fluid come out the nipple? Unless some seal in compromised. Any ideas?

 

That grease nipple, when fitted, is NOT on the fluid section of the rack. It lubes the pressure pad of the rack below the pinion head,.

Once a year, and ONLY a small squeeze of grease.

If fluid is there, that atmospheric chamber, as I call it, has fluid in it, and it should not.

Time for a rack rebuild me thinks.

 

Yea, I was afraid of that! It's either rebuild it myself, or buy a rebuilt unit. Either way I have to remove the rack and at the same time I might as well replace the inner A-arm bushings on the front end suspension. And anything else that might be worn. I can already see the inner bushings ripped and "squirting" out.

 

Metalastik only, remember!

 

Yes! Metalastik unless you want to do it again in about 3 years.
Get them here!
(';')

 

LnrB - I see the David Manners site actually shows two different ones of C8673. Did you order the one below for your Series II (as mine also is).

Bill

 

Yes, Bill, that's the number, but as I spoke personally to Jack Weston, I specified Metalastik brand.
I wouldn't personally trust these to be that brand if they don't say so somewhere in the ad.
Besides, they're far too, um, Inexpensive. Genuine Metalastik will cost about twice that for each bushing.
I thought that was a Very small price difference to keep from having to do it again in 3 or 4 years.
(';')

 

He's already responded that they are genuine Metalastik. My real question is that it doesn't state they are for a Series II XJ6?

 

They are the same part for all models.

 

If Jack says they're Metalastik, then Go For It, Bill!
(';')

 

Just received my Metalastik lower A-arm bushings and am now trying to plan out the job. I am hoping to accomplish this without removing the front end from the car? Back in 2020 I replaced the upper A-arm bushings, the lower ball joint and the upper ball joint, and the tie rod ends - all without removing front end. So they don't need doing again.

 

Bill, Congratulations on receiving your bushings!
You will have to remove the rack, because the fulcrum shaft comes out the back and the rack is in the way.

IFF (if and only if) you have a way to keep the springs corralled, you might be able to do it without dropping the unit.

And then there's the issue of driving the shafts out. IFF you're very lucky they won't be fused and will only take some genteel tapping to dislodge them. Otherwise you could find yourself with a big hammer and drift under your car at a very awkward position for a long time.

Last time I did mine, I soaked the shafts for several days in penitrant with the unit tipped up so the fluid would follow the shafts. Even then it took some serious bashing to get them out. You might have an easier time.
(';')

 

Sorry for sounding dumb, but which "shafts" are you referring to? I can see the fulcrum shaft you are referring to.

 

You're not sounding dumb, I was referring to the fulcrum shafts. sorry I wasn't clear about it.
(';')

 

And to be even more specific - the lower A-arm long bolt?

 

The springs have to be removed to change the lower wishbone bushings.

 

And with suitable tools and all the attention to safety. There's a huge amount of energy stored in the compressed spring even with the wheel off the ground. There was a very fortunate case where someone wasn't careful. The spring flew over the man's shoulder and encastered itself in a brick wall. It took a hammer and chisel to take it out!

 

I do have a custom designed spring compressor that I got from Sanchez, So I think I have the safety issue covered. But, to your point, I will be VERWE carefu!l

 

Bill: When I did mine the first time, I purchased a 1" ratchet from Home Depot. It made the job a lot easier. It is about 14 inches long