Ditto. I welded up my 16 cm3 turbine housing to change the volute injection angles onto the turbine wheel. Made the Holset H1C act similar to a late model powerstroke. It idles at 700 rpm and by the time the throttle comes in the boost is building up to 10 psi at 1000 rpm and tops out at 24 psi at 2500 rpm. The VE pump start pulling fuel around there with a 3200 rpm spring. I have a 60 hp fuel pin and also extended the timing advance range by adding spacers the pistons throw distance. The engine doesn't smoke under normal hard acceleration conditions. The 47rh isn't a very robust design for torque so it's best to take it easy on the trans when it's trying to shift. It's basically a 727 Torqueflight with an OD module on the back and a lock up converter on the front. I don't think loaded torque will hurt the rear. I'd be more concerned about bouncing a tire and that shock load causing problems. The drive shaft will be fun since the 47rh uses 1350 series U joints. It also uses 1/2" cooling lines which were a mother to fabricate.

 

Got new tires for the jag so i can move it around easier. should be installing / test fitting the engine soonish

 

Got the EGT probe installed. Mounting a turbo soon, my buddy has a gigantic turbo he'll probs let me cop for free but it needs a rebuild

She's looking purty

 

Uh can anyone enlighten me on the rear badge? I've never see E.XJS before

 

apparently it was a HE-XJS and someone moved the E badge

 

What are your plans for the gas tank since the larger diameter diesel fuel nozzle can't fit in a gasoline tank?

 

That isn't a problem. The pipe can be adapted and the opening widened. More so is how the tank shall be used to get the diesel out. The down feed as we bünormal owners have is a little trickey for a diesel, as least as I am told.

 

Removing the xjs fuel tanks and doing a 16 gal fuel cell with a high pressure inline pump.

 

good idea, my original tank was full of rust!

so got a Nascar Plastic fuel cell 20gals, hi pressure filter and pump.

works great.

 

Awesome. How much pressure does that pump run? looks like there's no tilt to your tank.. how does it empty more? Or do you just not let it get that empty?

Looks great by the way!

 

Can i get some info on how you wired that? Did you use a new relay? any close up pics would be greatly appreciated!

 

You shouldn't need a pump at the tank, especially if you use the stock lift pump on the engine. The VE doesn't like much input pressure, 7-10 psi tops. The injection pump has it's own vane pump inside and will run at 0 psi of input pressure but it's not happy making power there. The VE also has an internal pressure regulator. On my auto installs I left the stock tank in place and just added a return. I did run 3/8" feed and 5/16" return lines. Used the green plastic coated brake tubing as it gives the best seal. A leak on the suction side will cause the pump to lose prime overnight or quicker.

 

How will the fuel get to the lift pump without some sort of pump near the tank?

 

Suction from the lift pump, same as carbed cars with mechanical engine pumps. The filter should be on the intake side between the lift pump and the VE pump. The P pumps used a higher volume lift pump but I don't think you'll need one and they are expensive ($150ish with the conversion kit) vs a diaphragm lift pump ($60). The stock lift pump should also have a manual primer lever. If it has resistance you can use it to prime the VE pump. If not, you'll need to rotate the crank to get the lever off the cam lobe so it will work. Post up a pic of what you have on the VE pump side of the engine for better advice. The fuel system was probably the simplest to sort out.

 

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my fuel system has a small gravity fill from the main cell,its a slosh tank, below the upper cell, mounted behind the battery, so its always full,, any bubbles returns to main cell bypass line,in pic.

also my setup is for gasoline, no reason it wouldnt work for diesel.

i happen to run 45psi for EFI, but VE low volume system around 4.5psi.

if you over pressure them they just shut off pump, holding the plunger off charge.

as you know never let a diesel run out of fuel, becomes a PITA.

i use a 1/2" inlet lines, and 3/8 return, but thats overkill! unless you runnin 3 turbos or sumthin silly!

 

from my experience, i have cured many older diesel fuel problems by adding a small low psi pump near the fuel tank, and sometimes another filter on the chassis before the pump.

i think its easier to push the fuel than suck the fuel, so as eliminate any slight air intrusion leaks.

 

always a good idea to use a dedicated relay for your fuel pump, when you ignition on you listen for the pump pressurizing ,you will get the hang of it.

i use one on my GMC diesel suburban and its on continuous when key on, no shut off for pressure build up, its only 5psi,, never had an air leak since.

pump is from auto zone, same as factory GM dieseils.

anyway just get all together and sort out the small BS as you go.

 

Update!

Did the tappet cover gasket.
Reinstalled my VE pump and bumped the timing 1/8 while it was out and easy to do.
Managed to easy out a busted bolt in my head from the junk yard..
Replaced rear main seal(s)
Replaced lift pump gasket
replaced oil filter gasket and oil cooler gasket
replaced thermostat housing gasket and water pump gasket, pump looks amazing.
replaced thermostat

Engine is almost done. Just need to fix the T stat housing and do the front crank seal since i popped a hole in my replacement while seating it.

I have a triple disc converter on the way. going to need to start working on the trans lines/stuff soon.

 

Update

Reinstalled high pressure fuel pump lines
fixed t-stat issues

found an issue.. the starter makes the engine so ****in' wide that it's gonna have clearance issues. i might have to cut into the body where the pedals are to get stuff to fit.

good thing the car cost me 250$ haha!

 

Which starter are you using?