Evening all, as the title suggests I need to adjust my front wheel bearings. However having not done this job before I just want to be sure on how to do it . Today I filled the hubs with fresh grease and the bearings and slipped the new bearings on to new stub axles and nipped the nut up. I have spun the hubs once or twice to settle the grease a bit but as I’ve said just want to get it right. Bear in mind all the parts are new. Many thanks for any assistance.

 

The proper way is to use a dial indicator, preferably with a magnetic base. Put the magnetic base on the brake disk and the plunger of the dial indicator on the end of the stub axle. The aim point is 0.002"-0.006" end float, i.e. in and out movement. Make sure the hole in the stub axle lines up with a slot on the nut within that range and fit a new split pin.

If you don't have a dial indicator, tighten the nut until there just starts to be resistance to turning the hub. Slacken the nut between 1/2 to 1 flat, until the slots on the nut align with the hole in the stub axle. Temporarily fit the wheel to make sure it turns smoothly. Fit a new split pin and finish reassembly.

 

What miles on the car ? Reason I ask is because the bearing inner track can wear a groove on the underside of the stub axle. If this is present, no amount of adjustment will take up the play. I had this on my Series 3 and replaced the stub axles,. To get the old ones out, I used what my mechanic friend called a "talking hammer", (I obviously didn,t have a press).

 

All new parts.

 

Brinny
The Great Palm is sound on this topic. Basically, nip them up, just, then undo about 1/8 turn, then rock/push in and out and see if you can feel a slight dull click, if you can, tighten a touch and redo until they are just on it with no actual click or tightness. This gives great steering precision. Ere on slightly less than more tight if worried. Drive the car for 40 miles and recheck.
If you are ever worried about being too tight, which is pretty impossible unless you are a rock ape with the spanner, give the car a 5 mile drive and place your hand on the hub to test for friction heat.
Greg

 

Everyone has a favorite method

Decades ago I was taught to run the adjustment down firmly to make sure everything was seated and then back off until the washer (#9 in the illustration below) could *just* be moved with a screwdriver.

Some back off until the tiniest trace of free play could be felt. This should be done with the wheel mounted for leverage, IMO.

My experience is that the adjustment will invariably loosen a tiny amount so, personally, I take the bearings right down to zero and not an iota more.

To minimize any loosening it's important to use the right diameter cotter pin. And after all is done I gently tap the tangs of the retainer (#13 in the illustration) against the cotter key.

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...b-axle-carrier

Cheers
DD

 

Decades of "up just tight, back off a flat or castellation". Spin for smoothness and slack. 99% of the time, just right.


In all critters with inner and outter Timken style rollers.


Carl

 

Well that should clear that up.! Superb advice thanks all.

 

Thanks Greg , I didn’t want to disturb you hope the trip went well.