'Better Call Paul' (ptjs) How do I Bleed The Brakes on my 1995 6cyl XJS
#1
'Better Call Paul' (ptjs) How do I Bleed The Brakes on my 1995 6cyl XJS
Hi Paul (ptjs)
How do I Bleed The Brakes on my 1995 6cyl XJS with AJ16 Engine and Triangular Brake Reservoir
Having freed off the Rear Brake Pads that had somehow stuck themselves to the Rotors, the Second time that I Bled the Brakes, I accidentally let the Brake Reservoir run dry!
And now I can't get any Pedal at all
The only Bleed Nipple I opened was Passenger Side Rear (UK) Car and now I cannot even Pump any Brake Fluid through
This is when I realized that I had never Bled the Brakes on a 6cyl XJS with Outboard Brakes before
So Please could you tell me what I am doing wrong and Show me what to do
Should I have the ignition ON? I tried that but I still couldn't Pump any Brake Fluid Through or do I need to have the Engine Running as well?
Slightly out of ideas at this end
How do I Bleed The Brakes on my 1995 6cyl XJS with AJ16 Engine and Triangular Brake Reservoir
Having freed off the Rear Brake Pads that had somehow stuck themselves to the Rotors, the Second time that I Bled the Brakes, I accidentally let the Brake Reservoir run dry!
And now I can't get any Pedal at all
The only Bleed Nipple I opened was Passenger Side Rear (UK) Car and now I cannot even Pump any Brake Fluid through
This is when I realized that I had never Bled the Brakes on a 6cyl XJS with Outboard Brakes before
So Please could you tell me what I am doing wrong and Show me what to do
Should I have the ignition ON? I tried that but I still couldn't Pump any Brake Fluid Through or do I need to have the Engine Running as well?
Slightly out of ideas at this end
#2
See this thread, post #13, for the factory instructions.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post2648679
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post2648679
The following 2 users liked this post by jal1234:
Greg in France (06-12-2023),
ptjs1 (06-12-2023)
#3
Hi Jal
Many Thanks for getting back to me but Paul (ptjs) advised me not to follow the Factory instructions
And so I would rather wait for Paul than taking a chance of getting a worse problem than the one I have, or maybe even had?
As when I Started the Engine that I didn't do before, the Brakes on my Car started to come back, but now I'm getting a Ticking Sound underneath the Ski Slope every time I Touch the Pedal and I don't know why that is
Though knowing Paul's Forensic knowledge of the Teves System, then he may well have the Answer to this mysterious Clicking at his finger tips (I hope!)
Thanks Again
Alex (OB)
Many Thanks for getting back to me but Paul (ptjs) advised me not to follow the Factory instructions
And so I would rather wait for Paul than taking a chance of getting a worse problem than the one I have, or maybe even had?
As when I Started the Engine that I didn't do before, the Brakes on my Car started to come back, but now I'm getting a Ticking Sound underneath the Ski Slope every time I Touch the Pedal and I don't know why that is
Though knowing Paul's Forensic knowledge of the Teves System, then he may well have the Answer to this mysterious Clicking at his finger tips (I hope!)
Thanks Again
Alex (OB)
#4
if the master cyl is empty, most can be drip bled from the cyl 1st then move onto> rear brakes have their fluid sourced via the electric pump not "directly" from the foot pedal, it is necessary to have the ignition on when undertaking the bleed of the rears (although not for so long that it overheats the pump). The movement of the pedal allows the pump to directly move the fluid to the rear circuits, whereas the front brakes have fluid moved via a direct foot-pressured circuit from a chamber at the front of the actuation unit. It's a subtle but really important distinction.....(from paul)
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (06-12-2023)
#5
#6
Hi OB,
For once the Jaguar Gods are potentially smiling down on you, as the Teves IV system fitted from VIN 198335 acts in a completely different manner to the earlier Teves system.
So, you should NOT follow the instructions that I've published before for the earlier Teves system. The Teves IV system does NOT have high-pressure fluid feed driven independent of pedal pressure to the rear brakes.
The Teves IV uses a typical vacuum-assisted system under normal operation with no boost assistance. The revised pump & accumulator circuit ONLY operates under ABS conditions providing boost assistance and control with the ABS valves, to control and modulate pressure to the wheels under ABS-lock conditions.
Therefore, to flush the fluid, DO NOT turn on the ignition. The reference by Jal1234 to the factory procedure is correct.
The volume of fluid pushed to the rear brakes is a direct reflection of the pressure and frequency applied to the pedal. So, with the reservoir filled and the bleed nipple open on the left rear, depress the pedal fully and hold for 2 seconds. Tighten bleed nipple, release pedal and wait 2 seconds to allow reset of master cylinder piston and its fluid re-fill. Repeat the whole sequence up to 20 times or until you're absolutely sure you've fully pushed clean fluid through and removed the old fluid. Then do the other rear wheel, then do the front wheels.
It's going to be fine!
Good luck
Paul
For once the Jaguar Gods are potentially smiling down on you, as the Teves IV system fitted from VIN 198335 acts in a completely different manner to the earlier Teves system.
So, you should NOT follow the instructions that I've published before for the earlier Teves system. The Teves IV system does NOT have high-pressure fluid feed driven independent of pedal pressure to the rear brakes.
The Teves IV uses a typical vacuum-assisted system under normal operation with no boost assistance. The revised pump & accumulator circuit ONLY operates under ABS conditions providing boost assistance and control with the ABS valves, to control and modulate pressure to the wheels under ABS-lock conditions.
Therefore, to flush the fluid, DO NOT turn on the ignition. The reference by Jal1234 to the factory procedure is correct.
The volume of fluid pushed to the rear brakes is a direct reflection of the pressure and frequency applied to the pedal. So, with the reservoir filled and the bleed nipple open on the left rear, depress the pedal fully and hold for 2 seconds. Tighten bleed nipple, release pedal and wait 2 seconds to allow reset of master cylinder piston and its fluid re-fill. Repeat the whole sequence up to 20 times or until you're absolutely sure you've fully pushed clean fluid through and removed the old fluid. Then do the other rear wheel, then do the front wheels.
It's going to be fine!
Good luck
Paul
The following 3 users liked this post by ptjs1:
#7
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#8
Does your car have the interlock where you can't pull the transmission lever out of park unless you push the brake pedal, and is the clicking happening wirh ignition on? If so, the noise is likely the interlock solenoid being activated when you press and release the brake pedal. It is on the side of the gear selector mechanism.
Last edited by jal1234; 06-12-2023 at 01:22 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by jal1234:
orangeblossom (06-12-2023),
ptjs1 (06-12-2023)
#9
Does your car have the interlock where you can't pull the transmission lever out of park unless you push the brake pedal, and is the clicking happening wirh ignition on? If so, the noise is likely the interlock solenoid being activated when you press and release the brake pedal. It is on the side of the fear selector mechanism.
Paul
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (06-12-2023)
#10
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orangeblossom (06-12-2023)
#11
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orangeblossom (06-12-2023)
#12
Hi Paul (ptjs)
Hi Jon
Hi XJTom
Cheers! Guys
But as I have never Bled the Brakes on an XJS 4.0L before, I thought that I ought to wait until Paul got back just in case I got something wrong and Screwed up
As for the 'Ticking' you're probably right, although I haven't dared to put her in Gear!
Just in Case I couldn't take her out of gear again and couldn't turn the Key in the Ignition to Switch her off!
Hi Jon
Hi XJTom
Cheers! Guys
But as I have never Bled the Brakes on an XJS 4.0L before, I thought that I ought to wait until Paul got back just in case I got something wrong and Screwed up
As for the 'Ticking' you're probably right, although I haven't dared to put her in Gear!
Just in Case I couldn't take her out of gear again and couldn't turn the Key in the Ignition to Switch her off!
The following users liked this post:
ptjs1 (06-12-2023)
#13
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orangeblossom (06-13-2023)
#14
Hi Vee
That was the thing that was worrying me!
Putting the Car in gear and then taking off with no way to Stop
If my Brakes didn't work and I couldn't get the Key out of the Ignition!
The Good News being She Starts on the Button every Single time, though She probably won't now I've said that Lol!
But I've got to 'Cowboy Up' and give it a go, as now that I have managed to sort out the Brake Pads, that for some strange reason had decided to stick themselves to the Rotors, I need to now find out if I've managed to fix it
That was the thing that was worrying me!
Putting the Car in gear and then taking off with no way to Stop
If my Brakes didn't work and I couldn't get the Key out of the Ignition!
The Good News being She Starts on the Button every Single time, though She probably won't now I've said that Lol!
But I've got to 'Cowboy Up' and give it a go, as now that I have managed to sort out the Brake Pads, that for some strange reason had decided to stick themselves to the Rotors, I need to now find out if I've managed to fix it
Last edited by orangeblossom; 06-13-2023 at 01:46 AM.
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