I cannot get the video to run, I get a message saying the video is private, maybe this can be fixed, However, if you are getting hissing, it is because there is a coolant leak and/or a blockage causing a pressure build up and escape. It is unwise to run the car until this has been found and fixed.

Favourites are a blocked radiator (solve by a re-core) or a leaking radiator core (ditto). I suggest you drain the coolant, and then remove the radiator and take it to a radiator shop to be tested/recored. While you are doing all this you can also change the thermostats and renew the top and bottom hoses.

Removing the rad is not too hard: undo the fixings of the little purge pipe that runs along the top panel, unbolt radtop panel and carefully pull the loom back towards the engine a bit, undo the top hoses and the bottom hose, and with a friend, pull out the radiator.

Greg

 

on your video you need to set them to public from privet for us to view them

 

Sorry- the video should be viewable now.

 

OK, I have seen the video. I think you should pull the rad for certain, and do all the things I mentioned in my last post. You have a blockage, it must be found or you will cook the engine.

Do not despair, this is straightforward stuff to fix!
Greg

 

onwards and upwards! Remove the radiator I shall.

 

love the posts i like your spirit ! i bought 89 XJS convert looking to keep her. her name is [Barbra] .want to do my own work on it . low miles needs a good cleaning and detail . love the thread i like the support and advice that come your way when needed. got [barb] for a hobby need help as well but your work and replies and post will be a great help on my quest for [barb] running and looking good. the photos help me alot with what things are and what they do,keep up the good work and keep me posted!!!!!!!!!!!

 

thought I would build some confidence by checking the thermostats first before I pull the radiator. They both opened in hot water. One is slightly taller than the other although they look to be the same manufacturer. Does anyone think this is a problem?

 

one of the bolts that holds the thermostat housing in place broke off as I tried to unscrew it. It's the drivers side housing. Anyone have any thoughts as to how to try to get it out?

 

Hi,
You can always use a tap and die set to get the bolt off. If I am seeing the picture clearly I think that there is enough of the bolt there where *maybe* you can get a good grip of it with something (vice grips?) to ease it out. However you proceed I would apply heat near that bolt.
Good luck!
Jomo

 

Well, from the looks of it, you at least wound up with some to grab hold of with vice grips. I would liberally soak it with some penetrating fluid. After that, if it didn't want to turn out fairly easily, I might try drilling the center of it, spray more penetrating fluid the hole, IF you can drill completely through the stud. After that, I might apply some heat around it.

 

when you guys say apply heat how does one do that safely in the engine bay? I have a heat gun that I could try to put right on the bolt but I worry about heating something else that should not or does not want to be heated.

 

I would try an outside easyout. I think mine are Craftsmen.
They grip the outside of the bolt instead of drilling it out.

 

I have used a heat gun, as well as a mapp gas torch. The trick is, to heat the aluminum, but not the bolt as much. I've used lots of wet rags wrapped around things, whatever it takes. I use a product called PB Blaster, but have seen several different brands of penetrating fluid mentioned on here.

 

Greg,
I have a quick question for you on the NGK BR7 EFS spark plugs. I checked locally and what I could find were BR7 EF. I asked what the difference was. I was told that the "S" meant copper core where without the "S" meant nickle. I got on line to the Advance Auto site to check prices and that site told me that the BR7 EFS was not the correct plug for my 1982. Is the BR7 EFS plug correct for all the V12s or only the later models?
Thanks,
BQ

 

This is the wording from the NGK site in the USA: link: [NGK-BR7EFS] - - It's Free! : NGK Spark Plugs Store!, NGK Spark Plugs We Sale, Spark Plug For Racing car, Automobile, Motorcycles, ATVS, Scooters, Marine Engine, Agricultural Equipment
BR7EFS


Call for Price


Band : NGK
Parts No. : BR7EFS
Stock No. : 1094
NGK Standard Types Spark Plugs BR7EFS
Design Symbols used in NGK Spark Plugs
B - Thread Size / Hex Size: 14 mm / 13/16" (20.8 mm)

R - Resistor

Heat Rating Numbers : 7

EF - Thread Reach: Tapered Seat 17.5 mm (.708" Reach)

S - Firing End Construction: Standard 2.5 mm? Center Electrode

NGK Standard Resistor Spark Plugs : BR7EFS

MADE IN JAPAN



Your adviser is incorrect, the engine in your 1982 is identical to all 5.3 litre HE engines right up to the facelift 6.0 litre cars of the 1990s. If your adviser cannot find the BR7 EFS , then I suggest that buy some from Amazon etc etc! GApping each plug to 25 thou is VERY important.

Good luck with it all, and do not funk pulling the rad, that pressure build up in the top hose looks like a very blocked rad to me!

Greg

 

I would remove the housing completely from the car and drill out broken bolt correctly. The bolt sheared off so very unlikely to shift with vice grips etc. Not much more time involved in removal, two more gaskets and there will be a lot less drama in the long run doing it on the bench.

 

It looks like you're making life hard for yourself.

Undo the bonnet/hood gas struts and tie the hood up in the Air being careful not to crush the front grill, which some will suggest you remove.

I was able to lift my hood up almost vertical, with the front grill still in place.

It just gives you a lot more room to work but make sure its tied up securely so that it cannot fall!

Others will say take the bonnet/hood off but that is up to you.

 

I just reread your thermostat post and checked pics, I notice your thermostats do not have jiggle pins, they should have these and they should be oriented to the top when fitted.

 

I read about those but I don't really know what they are. I will get a pair from one of the Jaguar sites.

 

I'm 6'4" and got tired of leaning over so much that I took the hood off a couple of days ago before I pulled the thermostats!