That's me, jump first then think later. Just thought some things painted with spray cans would fit here.

 

OB,

It's good that your rad company sounds to be a conscientious bunch. Bodes well for the final product.

I sense you're moving away from keeping your aircon but I'll leave you with just a few thoughts then I'll butt out:

- In the UK, a well-maintained V12 engine and cooling system won't overheat with aircon, even recognising the limitations of airflow. Your new rad will make a big difference and the car will run fine. If it did overheat, it won't be because of the aircon

- I view aircon as "air-drying" rather than a cooling mechanism. Yes, it doesn't get used much in my convertible with the roof down, but in inclement weather with the roof up it's a great boon in keeping the cabin warm and dry with no condensation

- Not using the aircon regularly (if not all the time) is false economy. I've had my car re-gassed every few years through lack of use of the aircon. Now it's just been done, the aircon switch is staying permanently on from now on!

- One day (maybe!) your car will be sold. An XJS with non-working aircon in the UK is immediately worth considerably less. People will price in the unknown to get it working and have to allow £500+

So, with your new rad and all the good work you've done, I'd get the aircon done properly as well. Turn the switch on, leave it there and the GF can have all the dry warm or cool air she likes!

As I said, I'll butt out now. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Paul

 

Not sure how to take this...

I meant MY post as in "spray cans can get awesome results too... No need to leave a former painted part unpainted/base coated"

Otherwise: I don't know if I should be recognizing sarcasm, hidden "snot" or something else...

 

Very sensible post Paul. I would only add that (if the aircon is removed) as long as the thing is left so that the new aircon bits bolt/screw straight back into the car pipe system, it is an easy job to reinstall. As OB's system will be utterly shot after 14 years (pipes/compressor shaft seal/dryer and condenser) they will all have to be renewed anyway, so OB can wait until he wants or needs to do it.

You are 100% right about the compressor etc etc, if they are not used the shaft seal dries out and it's 'Goodbye Charlie' (Spats Columbo anyone?)

Greg

 

Don't forget the link to that special rattle can stuff daim, please.

greg

 

Thanks for the reminder Greg!

->
Just an Amazonlink

 

I think that's what Clarke meant also.

 

And do you know what, you were right, 'Spray Can Stuff' is a great inclusion!

 

Hi Paul

Don't 'Butt Out' or go anywhere!

Your input is Invaluable! and I'm always learning new things.

For instance what I wasn't getting, that I suddenly got just now, was that Air Con wasn't Cold Air, it was 'Dry Air!'

Like one of those 'Air Conditioners' that they use for drying out buildings!

So I won't be doing anything rash, like chopping all the pipes out!

There is always a 'Dicky Bird in Hells Chance' that the thing might actually work but in any event that Rad could act as a 'Bitch Shield' to protect the Main Rad against any flying stones.

The most important thing at the mo, is to get her running and while I'm not going down the 'Concourse' route, I'm taking my time and trying to make as nicer job of her as my skills will allow.

So don't be afraid of jumping in, if you think that I'm doing it wrong, as that's what Forums are all about, especially an amazing one like this!

 

I meant the same thing, I have had some great looking paint jobs from spray cans.
Lots of prep and I use mixed 2 pack cans with the button on the bottom of the can you push to mix the two components of the paint.

My paint jobs with a spay gun turn out pretty horrid.

 

Ah! Okay! Now that is better As written, I was a tad unsure...

But yeah, I know what you mean with spray gun vs. rattle can...

 

While adverse Weather Conditions are doing there best to slow me down, Thunder/Lightning/Rain and Gale Force Winds, I'm still making progress.

As the Fan Shroud looked a 'bit rusty' make that Very Rusty! I decided it was best to take it out and found it looked a whole lot worse than it actually was.

All the metal was solid as confirmed when I gave it a good Shot Blast, followed by a Coat of high build Primer.

This will then be followed by a Coat of Black Hammer Paint but only when the Primer has thoroughly dried out.

Although it was a little bit of a struggle to get out, as I did not remove the Yellow Fan.

This was nothing to the job of removing the Header Tank, which was on the Nearside of the Engine Compartment.(UK)

It was just so Red with Rust that I felt it best to take it out, so I could have a proper look at it.

It may clean up or else may need replacing, so I'll give it a Shot Blast and see how it looks after that.

But in any event, I will have to replace all the Hoses @'Greg in France'

It's only held in place with 3 bolts. (2) captive ones at the front and (1) nut and bolt at the rear, all of which are bolted through the Wing of the nearside Front Wheel Arch.(UK)

All (3) Nuts were so solid, that they could not be undone, without the risk of breaking off the Captives, so I soaked them in a mixture of 50% Acetone 50% ATF @'Greg in France'

After 3 days and nights of Soaking in this, they finally came undone, at which point I was able to remove it, after the slightly easier job of removing the hoses.

As you can see from the photos, the paint was not only peeling off but the overall condition, doesn't look that great.

So I will make a decision, on whether or not to replace it when its cleaned up, the only good news being that I've still got a spare on my Scrap Car, which may turn out to be either better or worse.

 

Mine doesn't look much different. I won't be removing mine, as I know it all works... Luckily. But I have a second one I'll be sandblasting and powdercoating. Should keep clean for ever then

 

Hi Daim

This one still probably works OK as it was still full of Anti Freeze and Water but if it starts to leak when I'm driving, then it could be 'Curtains!'

So I'd rather get it checked out now than later.

 

I was talking about the fan surrounding

Waterbottle I just renewed... Though it had loads of muck in the bottom.

 

pic of my coolant tank;

80s VW part mounted as high as possible, bubbles rise to top, with 15 psi cap.

works great and have had no problems with bleeding and air pockets,20yrs.

 

Never mind the Coolant Tank! I just want that Engine, it looks Epic!

Any more pics?

 

The Radiator Top Closing Panel was so rusty that I thought I may have to replace it.

After a Shot Blast and Repaint it looked at lot better, so I couldn't resist trial fitting it before I took the next photo.

But one of the studs that holds the dryer will have to be replaced.

Check out the Front Beam that holds the Main Rad, even after 24 years it still almost looks like new.

Also the Camera doesn't lie and shows up every little bit of rust! so some work to do on those pulleys and adjusters, before I replace all the belts.

She's very gradually starting to come together.

 

Terrific job on the cross panel OB. Congratulations. I am glad it is all coming together. The belts will not take too long, just soak all the adjusters with some mixture for a day or two before. The car lokks great and the cross member underneath the rad is amazing.

Greg

 

Bit by bit, step by step... I know how you feel when something looks great in the end or better than thought. As I removed my Jags waterbottle I was expecting to find a rust hole and loads of rot... Not a bit! Luckily my Jag hab been leaking oil from day one as it seems, as the engine bay has not rust anywhere. Wiped with a cloth: brand new paint beneath

Keep the good work up!