My 1988 Jaguar XJS is a little too original. All fuel lines have the original aluminum tag from 1987 on them. What does it cost to replace all fuel lines? Is this a DIY job or better left to a professional?

 

DIY for sure.

Time consuming, hell yes.

30 EFI clamps, 3mtrs EFI rated hose, Bandaids, alcohol, dictionary (for the "special" words needed), simple.

The swaged lines are easily opened up, revealing a barb spigot, so a hose, clamps, all done.

Eliminating the RH FPR makes it even easier.

 

You can buy the fuel lines as a refurb/aftermarket product now. All are available.

 

There were no swaged lines on my XJRS, they just appear that way. The ferrules are readily available and if you go that little extra and replate the hard lines the whole setup will be as good as the day it left the factory, in both looks and function.
EFI hose will slip right on the barbs along with a ferrule, no clamps required and at risk of being repetitive clamps should NOT be used on the barbs intended for slip on ferrule use.

 

I'm pretty sure the feed line going into the rail actually is swaged, but I think thats the only one. Otherwise you are just buying EFI rated line at the store and cutting it to length. The ferrules are available on injector-rehab. Everyone argues they MUST be used because clamps don't work, but the XJS uses the same injectors with clamps.

If they are original the most tedious thing is honestly removing the old lines from the injectors and rail.

Don't forget you need the orings for the injectors. Pretty simple job. Either re-use clamps or buy EFI clamps, don't use generic hose clamps.

 

The configuration of the barbs differed between the earlier cars where clamps were used and the later "all ferrule" cars

 

still a mess of old stuff.

go O-ring injectors ,top and bottom, custom rails,etc. can take over 200psi pressures. last for the rest of your life.

comon get into the new world.

 

2 swaged lines on the 5.3.

RH FPR to rail, and rail to LH FPR.

Push on mandatory IF the injector and rail barbs are NOT damaged whilst removing the old crusty hose. It is so easy to damage those barbs, and then the sharpness" of the barb needs "dulling" so it dont cut the hose with the clamp.

The PreHE had clamps on the rail/s and ferrules on the injectors.

I clamped all mine as damage did occur to the barbs, and 2 of the cars had been messed with prior to coming to me, and those hoses leaked due to the barb damage. Once dulled, and EFI clamped, all sweet.

 

The original fuel lines lasted 30 years now. So regular new fuel lines for my H.E. will literally last the rest of my life. ;-)

I might use a custom fuel rail for my pre H.E., and some other modifications to tickle more horses out of it.

 

As can be seen from pics there were several different configurations of barbs on the different injectors used, some for ferrules/cups and some meant for clamps. Those with the single barb are for clamps and safe to use since there is no barb in the clamping area of the hose. I only have an image of the early clamp rail barb, the later model is multi barb same as later injectors and meant for push on ferrule use.
All hoses, at least on the HE are push on ferrule fittings. The pipe fitting shown is the right hand FPR to rail fitting with the original ferrule and a replacement of the type used to renew all my hoses from tank through to engine bay.