92 XJS

Now that I have my trunk open and battery reconnected, I am thinking it would be nice to have everything in working order.

1) The cruise control doesn't work. The switch on the console (next to the shifter) does not function. I haven't checked the fuses or relays yet. Is this a good place to start?

2) The exterior lock on the passenger side doesn't "catch" to unlock that door. Actually it does work sometimes, but rarely. Is there a common cause for this? (The key is cylindrical/square.)

-TIA

 

Mccalist, as for the lock, it is not uncommon for them to fade over the years and result in intermittent operation like you are seeing. So, you will most likely need to replace the actuator. Once you do that, all should be good.

As for the cruise, there are a lot of things that can feed into the system to cause it not to engage. You would need a set of schematics to verify things. Your brake pedal has a switch that is known for failing and it won't supply power to the cruise circuitry, therefore diabling the system, the button you press to engage the cruise could be bad, etc, etc, etc. Maybe someone else will know a bit more about your car.

 

I know the best thing for any DIY-er having button or switch issues is a multimeter. I've found that out since I've been having problems with my girl. Use it to figure out if you have a signal to your brake pedal switch, the cruise button itself, etc. Like Chris said, You need the wiring/electrical schematics to aid you. And don't depend on the Haynes/Chilton's manuals. The diagrams in those suck...lol.

 

Is it easy to change the actuator? How difficult is it to take of the interior door panel?

Also, I was gonna order the repair manual that comes on a CD. Does this have the wiring diagrams?

 

Yes, it does but it is available as a download at the top of this forum for free.

 

Hi, Does the central locking work on this door, from the driver's side and or dash button? (No points, to actuator, or broken micro switch/wire).

Do you hear anything from the passenger door when you lock/unlock the driver's door. (no points to actuator)

Does your spare key work better or not? (pointing to worn lock cylinder or more probably worn key).

Does your key always turn in both directions?

I happen to have a broken door handle unit on the desk in front of me (hey why not), so having a play with this, I notice that if you do not push you key fully home it will not unlock, a difference of less than 1 mm prevents the key from turning on this unit.

Before you dismantle the door, try inserting a WD40 straw into the lock from the outside. Give it a good blast, and then try repeated lock/unlock with the 'Best' key.

If you do want to get in there for a look see, then it is simple, but a bit fiddly.

For above, you will need to remove the interior door panel.

Disconnect Battery "Again", you can get away with not doing, but as usual, not reccomended, just be careful.

Screws, one behind the black plastic interior handle release. Remove and then pry out wood towards the front of the car. This will the reveal two or three screws on the top part of the door trim,remove and lift off trim. On front doors there is also a hidden screw under the rubber demist hose.

Prise out the red warning light cover to reveal a screw, remove.

Depending on your trim type. Prise off the small cover in the center of the main handle (upwards) to reveal another screw, remove.

Now carefully prise off the pannel you will see an assortment of wires, disconnect the connectors

Remove plastic weather seal and you are there.

Total time for above about 5 mins.

You will see an assortment of rods, with two vertical rods going to the handle.

Remove the lock rod from the handle, attached with a small clip. (front doors)

Remove the two small 8mm (IIRC) nuts from the handle retaining cradle inside the door, then carefully ease the handle away from the door.

You will see an electronic micro switch. Carefully remove the two small retaining screws to detach it from the handle. Be very careful with the thin wire you don't want to break it. (front doors)

By moving the unit around you can more easily detach the latch rod, and you will have the handle in your hand.

Now you can peacefully have a play with it, to see just what turns when you insert and move your key.

Assuming your battery is still connected, before removing the actuator, reconnect the electric plugs, and try your central locking from the driver's door. If the actuator "fires" on/off, it is most likely not at fault.

To remove the actuator, disconnect the rod and then unscrew the two retaining screws, they are hard to get at, and you will think that they fitted them with an air wrench and locktight at the factory. You can get to them with a normal Xhead screw driver, but a canted (bent) driver is easier.

Once the actuator is loose, you then jiggle, curse, jiggle again, curse some more and work the unit to the largest cutout in the door, and remove it.

If you need a replacement actuator, one from any side of the car will fit, you just need to reverse the mounting plate.

Chances are that a later unit, will have a different connector plug, but you can quite easily rewire this to fit.

Reassembly is the opposite of the above, it's not complicated, just take your time.

When you have the handle working OK, give the latch mechanism etc. a blast of WD40.

 

AWESOME! THANKS.

HERE IS THE CURRENT OPERATIONAL STATUS OF ALL LOCKS (with battery connected)

Driver's door lock: rotates both ways from center, operates passenger door and trunk/boot with movement each way.

Passenger's door lock: currently, the same as the driver's door. However this operational status is intermittent. Half of the time it doesn't rotate in one direction (I forget which direction), and does not operate the driver's door and trunk/boot.

Trunk/boot lock: rotates both ways from center, but doesn't "catch" to lock or unlock the trunk/boot. However, I believe this problem is new. Is it possible that I just need a new key?

Here are two pictures of my key. It is the black one, and the only key that I have (except for the fuel tank key). I think you can tell from the second picture whether it's worn badly or not.

 

Driver's door outside lock is designed to unlock all locks. Passenger side lock is not.

Passenger side lock does not rotate one direction sometimes = need a new door lock - the part that you put the key into (parts of it may be worn out on the inside).

Trunk lid lock = need to check out the lock arm (goes from the key hole to the locking mechanism on the latch). Could have fallen off or be broken.

Key worn out? I'm not sure. I've never seen that type of key (newer Jag keys), so I have no reference. Go to a Jag dealer and ask them.

 

So your central locking system is working OK. This is good news, believe me.

Your key does not look any more worn than the one I use every day. (remember almost any key from any car will lock the doors, but only the correct key will unlock).

You obviously have the correct key, so I would suspect your lock cylinder to be either worn out, or sticking. It will allow you to lock, but not to unlock.

As previously, WD40, before dismantling.

The biggest headache for me anyway, is getting the handle retaining bracket back on correctly, without it fouling the latch release rod.

This you will discover for yourself;-)

Here are a few pics, for your amusement.